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Kreuzturm Guide

  • Grade context: SX
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 7

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

DDjensl vilda_hkvdf Campbell Gome Victor Bernii

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Kreuzturm 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.919780, 14.236112

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

descent notes

Abseile: 13m & 30m / 22m & 12m

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

FA: Hermann Sattler, W. Meylan, F. Gerbing & O. Pusch, 1901

V Trad
2 Alter Weg Variante V Trad
3 Ostwand VIIIb Trad
4 Vollständige Ostwand VIIIb Trad
5 Ostriss VIIc Trad
6 Dunkeldeutschland

FA: Felix Maul & Tino Tanneberger, 27 Oct 2015

IXa Mixed trad 9
7 Kreuzschlitz

FA: Tino Tanneberger & Fl. Friedrich, 13 Nov 2016

VIIc Mixed trad 2, 2
8 Südriss

FA: Max Matthäus, F. Gnaß, J. Wagner, K. Wagner, W. Kamke & A. Hoyer, 1910

VIIc Mixed trad 1
9 Schwarzer Terror

AF IXb

IXc Trad
10 Südwand IXb Trad
11 Komplette Südwand IXc Trad
12 !Auseinandersetzung IXb Trad
13 Gewissenskonflikt

FA: Tino Tanneberger & Tom Ehrig, 3 May 2016

IXa Mixed trad 6
14 Westkante

FA: Herbert Richter, B. Arnold & J. Isert, 1966

VIIIc Mixed trad 55m, 2, 5
15 !Graue Spur

AF IXa

IXb Trad
16 Germanischer Ausstieg IXb Mixed trad 50m, 5
17 Lochstreifen

AF IXa

IXb Mixed trad 50m, 4
18 !Nordkante VIIIb Mixed trad 2
19 Nordpfeiler IXc Trad
20 Kreuzbube

AF Xa

Xb Trad
21 Grand Ouvert

AF IXc

Xa Trad
22 Grand Ouvert Direktvariante IXc Mixed trad 6
23 Nordwand

Rechts vom AW Riss hinter Rippe u. rechts queren zu Ring. Rechts queren und Hangelriss zu nR. Links queren und Rippe zu Winkel. Über Klemmblöcke und Schulterriss z.G.

FA: Emanuel Strubich, 1916

VIIb Mixed trad 60m, 2
24 !Direkte Nordwand

with support VIIc

VIIIa Mixed trad 50m, 2
25 Flutrinne

FA: Chris-Jan Stiller & T. Wolf, 2002

IXb Mixed trad 4
26 Kreuzspinne und Kreuzschnabel

FA: Tino Tanneberger & Michael Petters, 4 May 2018

IXa Mixed trad 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V Alter Weg Trad
Alter Weg Variante Trad
VIIb Nordwand Mixed trad 60m, 2
VIIc Kreuzschlitz Mixed trad 2, 2
Ostriss Trad
Südriss Mixed trad 1
VIIIa !Direkte Nordwand Mixed trad 50m, 2
VIIIb !Nordkante Mixed trad 2
Ostwand Trad
Vollständige Ostwand Trad
VIIIc Westkante Mixed trad 55m, 2, 5
IXa Dunkeldeutschland Mixed trad 9
Gewissenskonflikt Mixed trad 6
Kreuzspinne und Kreuzschnabel Mixed trad 4
IXb !Auseinandersetzung Trad
!Graue Spur Trad
Flutrinne Mixed trad 4
Germanischer Ausstieg Mixed trad 50m, 5
Lochstreifen Mixed trad 50m, 4
Südwand Trad
IXc Grand Ouvert Direktvariante Mixed trad 6
Komplette Südwand Trad
Nordpfeiler Trad
Schwarzer Terror Trad
Xa Grand Ouvert Trad
Xb Kreuzbube Trad
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