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Kleines Spitzes Horn

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 6

Flora and Fauna: Temporäre Sperrung wegen Wanderfalkenbrut

Die Kaaba und das Große und das Kleine Spitze Horn sind zunächst bis zum 15.04.24 temporär fürs Klettern gesperrt. Sollte die Brut erfolgreich verlaufen, wird die Sperrung voraussichtlich bis 30.06.24 verlängert.

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Created about a year ago - Edited 4 weeks ago

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

"Alter Weg" zur Terrasse. 7m links vom "Alten Weg" Rissspur und schräge Wand zu R. Rinne zG.

FA: Klaus Schäfer, Gunter Seifert, J. Knobloch, J. Seifert & E. Mehlhorn, 1978

"Alter Weg" zur Terrasse. Nach links und dicht links der Kante zu kleinem Absatz. Links zu R und (unterstützt) Rinne zG.

FA: Walter Barth & H. Ziegenbein, 1935

FA: 1994

4m links der "Nordostwand" Rissspur und Wand (R) direkt zum R.

FA: Gilbert Mohyla & V. Katzschner, 1988

AF VIIIc.

FA: Frank Meißner, M. Werner & U. Köhler, 2011

FA: Manfred Vogel & H. Heller, 1995

6m rechts vom "Talweg" Wand (R) zu überwölbten Band (R). Links (unterstützt) über Überhang und Wand (R) zu 4.R. Rechts um die Kante queren und Rissspur zG.

FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Lamm & G. Ludewig, 1976

FA: Joachim Friedrich, Ulrich Schmidt & T. Kubisch, 1986

With support VI. Anstrengend.

FA: Kurt Fritzsche, O. Heinicke & H. Borkmann, 1923

FA: Dieter Ulbrich, H. Schirmer, H.-J. Scholz & F. Großmann, 1980

FA: Jürgen Höfer & P. Worlich, 1990

With support VI. Anstrengend.

FA: Walter Barth & H. Ziegenbein, 1936

With support VIIa.

FA: Gisbert Ludewig & D. Heinicke, 1973

5m links der „Diagonale“ Kante (4R) auf Pfeiler. „Nordwestwand“ zG.

FA: Doreen Steudtner-Krause, Jens Wagner, A. Michler, A. Ermer & H. Leuner, 30 Apr 2022

FA: Danilo Höhne, Uwe Rößler & Andreas Zeiler, 1991

With support VI. Anstrengend.

FA: Walter Barth & H. Ziegenbein, 1935

FA: Manfred Vogel & M. Mittasch, 21 Apr 2016

FA: Hans Peuker & G. Oertel, 1953

FA: Jürgen Höfer & F. Anderssohn, 2000

FA: Hermann Potyka, G. Ludewig & M. Hilbert, 1966

FA: Thomas Johne, V. Katzschner & S. Johne, 1990

FA: Chris-Jan Stiller, 2009

FA: Gisbert Ludewig & H. Potyka, 1966

FA: Dietmar Schäfer, 1959

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Bizarre Felstürme, romantische Schluchten, endlose Wälder Eine über 150-jährige Klettertradition hat hier ein recht strenges Regelwerk bewahrt. Der Führer stellt eine Auswahl von über 300 der lohnendsten Sandsteinrouten, vorwiegend in den Schwierigkeitsgraden I bis VII vor. Gebietsfremden oder Anfängern soll der Einstieg ins Elbsandsteinklettern so erleichtert werden.

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

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Fri 28 Apr
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