Ascents in Kleiner Wehlturm

In the chimney on the start, one needs to turn around at one point, what was a bit scary. Later in the chimney it got quite a bit slimey, because I ignored the flake on the left and went deeper into the green slime of darkness. Also my prusik sling got lost there probably. From the ring after the second pitch you get a taste of what the view from the top will be like. From there, the next pitch was a wonderful long climb with lots of good holds. Surprisingly, we were the first rope team in 2020 on the summit. The view from there to the Bastei is remarkable. If you look behind the Bastei you can also see the Nonne. On the way down, when I rappelled down the chimney from the double ring and through the right/upper crack from there, to get to the block of the first pitch, the rope got so stuck in the bottom of the chimney, that I had to crawl back through the crack and get the rope out. Later Christoph Rauch had the same problem when pulling off the rope and went back down the other way to get it out.

Long, varied adventure. Uncomfortable chimney start. Took me a while to commit to the second part of the chimney, where you go in a bit deeper (good sling before and after the "crux"), with the abyss lingering below you. The final section is strenuous but manageable. From the big block, you step over to a little crack, then walk along the big rib with a handrail-like flake (mediocre sling at the end), swing around the arête in a crouched position and carefully work your way up to the ring (I threaded two small rock tunnels on the way). From there it's a fantastic, exposed jug haul to the big ledge, and an easy stroll up the dihedral and the final wall to the summit. One of the most beautiful views in the country! To top it off, we were the first on the summit this year! Best done in 4 pitches (chimney, traverse and wall to ring, arête, dihedral). Careful again on your way down! The third abseil is from the big block (the one after the first pitch). Getting there is easier with a long rope (we had 80 m, maybe 60 m are just enough), but it might be even better to pull off the rope from the base of the chimney and belay someone through the lower way through (the left one when looking out of the chimney towards the block), since your rope might get stuck (which it did for us, so I had to climb back and get it out).