Ascents in Große Gans

Perfect route to end the long weekend with, although I must admit the sand in the second pitch got me a little frightened. But let's start at the beginning. It seems many people start from the left instead of climbing the original hand crack, which is a shame. The crack is the obvious line and it's not hard. You can even protect it quite easily. The section from the first to the second ring is intimidating at first because you can't see the ring and it's overhanging, but the holds are good and you can climb in a controlled fashion. Almost didn't see the ring, had already placed a sling directly next to it. Good sling on a ledge after that, then up over an overhang ("Umgehungsstelle" of "Weinertwand") and via an exhilarating slab section to the third ring, where I set up belay. The second pitch starts off with what is maybe the most technical part of the climb. Didn't place anything up to the fourth ring, though, and just concentrated on the climb. After the ring, a little crack section provides some variation (and we even pocketed a sling that someone got stuck in a rock tunnel, kaching!) and before you know it, you're at the fifth ring. The guidebook said to go right here, "avoiding two chossy overhangs". Apparently, though, most people nowadays go left into the finish of "Weinertwand" instead, so the original finish is neglected and indeed the rock quality is questionable at best. I tried to avoid the "white stuff" as best as I could, found some mediocre rock tunnels and just climbed as carefully as possible to not break anything. It's not difficult climbing up there, fortunately. The feeling of success and relief was all the more present when I reached the summit. It's basically written everywhere but to be sure: the second abseil ring is on the opposite wall, just a few meters below the summit. Don't miss it!

Lower part often damp. Somewhat sketchy to first small thread, then easier to first bolt. Crux after 3rd bolt.

Crispy, but well protected with a V-thread before clipping second bolt. The rest is easy.

The stepover is mellow. Traversing left involves some botany, the remaining part is reasonably protectable.

No reasonable pro before first bolt, then better.

Reachy to second bolt, crimpy past it. Sandy but easy topout.

Somewhat sandy till the first big thread around 8 m high, then well protected and consistently difficult to top.

Somewhat tricky start, especially for finding a good position for the belayer. Then easier but sustained, slightly sandy topout.

Überfall von Vg und Ausstieg über Perry-Variante.

#meisterweg

The first pitch (to 2nd ring) is one of the best climbs I've ever done