Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
Wonderful day out
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VIIc | ★★★ Sagenhafte Rinne - with LL | 50m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
First three meters are the most difiicult. Then just pure pleasure.
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VIIa | ★★ Alter Weg - with LL | 40m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
extent 2.AÖ to make it one long pitch
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VIIIb | ★★ Südwand Direktvariante - with LL, Franta Kaván | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Jun 2021 | ||||
One of the best routes I've climbed. Like, ever. Difficult slab moves just before 4.R. Stay calm and work with your feet I went straight from 3rd to 4th; somewhere you can read that its better to go up first and then traverse left. We haven't tried.
#meisterweg
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VIIIb | ★★★ Westwand - with LL | 55m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 3rd Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb VIIIc | ★★★ Knirpelwand Einstiegsvariante - with LL | 80m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Aug 2021 | ||||
Good alternative for reaching the ledge. Be careful under 1.R. 11.Beg.
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VIIIb | ★★★ Direkte Knirpelwand (Direkte Knirpelwand (RP)) - with LL | 80m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Aug 2021 | ||||
too hot, above 4.R was already on sun
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VIIIb | ★★★ Direkte Westkante - with LL | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | ||||
VIIIa | ★ Sexy-Variante Linke Erwähnung - with Franta Kaván | 80m, 8 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Thu 28th Apr 2022 | ||||
grounded at Sexy-Var. orig. so went for the left one
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VIIc | ★ Illmerweg - with Franta Kaván | 80m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 10th May 2022 | ||||
This route is not for everyone. Make sure you are well prepared
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VIIIa | Hungerkante - with Franta Kaván | 50m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Wed 11th May 2022 | ||||
Recommended if you don't mind brittle and sandy parts. Otherwise not recommended!
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VIIIc | ★★ Route Zehn - with LL | 43m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
VIIIb | ★ Krämerriss Direkteinstieg - with LL | 40m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
Dangerous - the VIIIb moves are below 1.R. Above it's VIIc in line with the original.
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VIIIa Hard | ★★ Große Reibung - Sonnige Variante - with JN | 38m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Sep 2022 | ||||
Hard for the grade at 1.R (the support place). Not so great to deserve two stars in guidebook.
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VI Easy | ★★★ !Alter Weg - with JN | 40m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Sep 2022 | ||||
easy for VI but courageous
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VI ~VIIa | ★★ Nordwand - with JN | 25m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Sep 2022 | ||||
Hard and not-so-nice first three meters. Than excellent.
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VIIIc | ★★★ Ostrisse Untere Variante - with LL | 55m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th May 2023 | ||||
VIIa ~VIIb | ★ Alter Weg - with LL | 15m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Thu 4th May 2023 | |||||
only as a finish after Kachelmann
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IXa Easy | ★★★ Über den Drachenrücken - with LL | 80m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
The most difficult part today was the common part with Direkte Westkante. Saw a video so no OS.
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VIIIc Easy | ★★ Verbindungswand - with LL | 35m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
Verbindungswand only, no finish. My excuse is to climb the complete original Renger one day.
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VIIIb Hard | HexTexMex - with LL | 30m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Don't Bother | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
5 . Beg / 5th repeat
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VIIIc ~IXa | ★★ Mega Perls - with LL | 20m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
In my opinion AF VIIIb RP IXa
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VIIc | ★★ Omega - with Franta Kaván | 20m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
5 . Beg / 5th repeat
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VIIc | ★★ Richtfest - with JZ | 70m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
Richtfest alone = Classic. Aehligweg is also fine climbing.
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VIIIa Easy | ★★★ Feine Risse - with JZ | 70m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
realy cool route and somehow missed classic
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VIIa | ★★ Kotzwand | 80m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jun 2013 | ||||
The last 10m was a crag and in this i can't nothing put in.
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 13th May 2013 | ||||
Very nice
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I | ★ Alter Weg - with Jens W., Stefan B. | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 29th Oct 2011 | ||||
Shared lead.
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II | Nordwestweg - with Stefan B. | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Thu 1st May 2014 | ||||
Up and down.
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II | ★ Eisenklammerweg - with Stefan B. | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Thu 1st May 2014 | ||||
Up and down.
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I | ★ Alter Weg - with Jens W., Thorsten Koch | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 29th Oct 2011 | |||||
First ascent in Elbsandstein!
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg - with Marcus | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | ||||
Heute zum ersten Mal begangenen. Es war genial. Ich teile aber die Einschätzung nicht, dass ein Anfänger mit einem erfahrenen Bergsteiger das locker schafft. Im Gegenteil, es wird dann eher für alle (auch unbeteiligte Nachsteiger) eine Tortour.
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VIIa | ★★ Westweg Alpenbubenvariante - with Player One, und Matu, und Sarah | 25m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 13th May 2023 | ||||
m.U.
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VIIa | ★★ Südriss - with Player One | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||||
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VIIa ~VIIb | Putzmudel - with Player Two, Matu und Sarah | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
Die Route steigt normalerweise weiter links als Üh ein und verläuft durch die Rinne. Sehr moosig aber mit einem Putzfimmel machbar
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III ~IV | ★ Turnerweg - with Player Two | 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
Den dreiteiligen Kamin (m.E. Schulterriss für den Vorsteiger) sollte man nicht unterschätzen. 2. AÖ ist ein Ring. An dieser vorbei bis zu einem Absatz wo sich ein Nachholstift befindet (Achtung! Nicht bis ganz nach oben. Stift kann leicht übersehen werden).
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II | ★★ Westkante - with Christian | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | |||||
Klassiker
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II | ★★ Schartenweg - with Christian | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | ||||
Gutmütiger Kamin
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II | ★★ Alter Weg - with Christian | 25m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | ||||
Für den Grad ist das Kaninstück relativ schwer...
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VI | ★★ Ostkante - with Flo | 12m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Aug 2022 | ||||
Von oben gesichert
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VIIb | ★★ Nordostwand Variante - with Flo | 14m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Thu 25th Aug 2022 | ||||
Von oben gesichert
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II | ★★★ Schusterweg | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | |||||
Kopflampe im Kaminlabyrinth nicht vergessen...
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VIIc | ★ Nordkante - with Christoph | 10m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 17th May 2024 | ||||
Vorstieg vug.
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VIIa | ★★★ Südriß | 80m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Aug 2018 | ||||
Holy shit that was scary.
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Oct 1999 | ||||
7h family tour - rappel down in the pitch dark
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 20th May 2009 | ||||
NS mit Anika
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VIIa | ★★★ Südriss | 80m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th May 2009 | ||||
1 SL mit Anika
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VIIIb | ★★ Der Zittauer (Der Zittauer (oU)) | 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th May 2013 | ||||
until 3 bolt
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V VIIb | ★ Alter Weg | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Thu 16th May 2013 | ||||
classical support position in the middle
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VIIIa | ★ Im Abgasdunst | 18m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | ||||
slippery holds at the crux
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VIIIb | ★★ Der Zittauer (Der Zittauer (oU)) - with Mirko | 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Jun 2015 | ||||
VIIIa | ★★★ Reginawand (oU) - with Mirko | 80m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Jun 2015 | ||||
VIIb VIIc | ★★★ Schönwetterwand - with Mirko | 80m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Jun 2015 | ||||
#jan-belay
until 5. bolt = 35m
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III IV | ★ Künstlicher Weg - with Anika, Jakob, Mirko | 18m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 26th Jun 2015 | ||||
II | ★ Alter Weg | 8m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jul 1996 | ||||
Date?
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VIIa | ★ Westweg Rechte Variante | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 24th Sep 2023 | ||||||
Den im KleFü beschriebenen Ring gibt es nicht mehr.
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg - with Christoph Rauch, DavidX, Bovist | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | ||||
Every pitch a dreamlike path to the next pitch. You don't want it to stop.
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IV | ★★ Variante zur Westkante - with DavidX | 10m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | ||||
First big move on the slab on the start a bit reachy, but then a quick stroll to the top.
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III | ★ Leichter Weg - with Holm, Christian, Sebastian | 60m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 1st Jul 2017 | |||||
Kaminkurs
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II | ★★ Eiserner Kamin - with Holm, Christian, Sebastian | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 1st Jul 2017 | ||||||
Kaminkurs
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VI | ★ Westkante - with mathias scholz | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | |||||
Das Stück zum ersten Ring ist nicht ganz ohne und schlecht zu sichern.
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg - with Carl G. Pophal | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | |||||
Wir haben eine speetaktion gezogen und den Schusterweg in 46 min vollendet. Porzelankante wurde mit der Reibung rechts daneben umgangen da eine Zweierseilschaft vor uns war.
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VIIa | ★★ Kotzwand | 80m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Mar 2023 | ||||
2nd ring, no time to finish until dark
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IXa | ★★★ Über den Drachenrücken | 80m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Mar 2023 | ||||
Wow
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I | ★ Alter Weg - with Thorsten Koch, Stefan B. | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 29th Oct 2011 | |||||
Geteilte Führung.
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VIIa | ★ Affengeil - with Marek Albrecht | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 15th May 2022 | |||||
erste VIIa
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg - with Eva Farkas | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 10th Jun 2011 | ||||
Very nice and easy route.
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VIIc | ★★★ Schönwetterwand | 80m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 29th Oct 2014 | ||||
Very nice route an good placements.
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VIIIb | ★★ Südwand Direktvariante - with vilda_hkvdf, Linda | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIc | ★★★ Schönwetterwand - with Linda | 80m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Jun 2021 | ||||
Nice route, disgusting offwidth
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VIIIb | ★★★ Reginawand - with Linda | 80m, 5 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th May 2022 | ||||
Classic reibung / slab. 5 ring bolts,but nothing else, expect to do tricky moves high above them
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VI | Neujahrsrinne - with Linda | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Tue 10th May 2022 | |||||
Var. straight, according to guide, best route on tower, still, not very nice
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VIIIa | Hungerkante - with vilda_hkvdf | 80m, 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Wed 11th May 2022 | ||||
First few meters sandy, then from ring bolt great climbing for like 10 meters, then absolutely crappy and brittle material almost to 3.R. Would not recommend.
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VIIIa | ★★ Steinbrecherweg - with Lukas | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Sep 2023 | ||||
If it was not in crappy material, it would be mega classic
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VIIc | ★★ Wieder im Mai - with Lukas | 20m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Sep 2023 | ||||
Probably the best route on main summit
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I | ★★★ Alter Weg - with Ali | 45m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jul 2023 | ||||
kletterei mit Wanderschuhe
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VIIa | ★★ Kotzwand | 80m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th May 2018 | ||||
Schöner weg. Riss Wand abfolge gut absicherbar. Schwierigkeit beim einstieg riss. Bis Ring gängig dann gut zum zweiten ring. Vor dem Grat gute schlinge.- ordentlich verlängert geht es zum 3 Ring. dann zum gipfel. Toller großer weg
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III | ★ Alter Weg | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Thu 18th Oct 2018 | |||||
Gruselig auf 60 meter 2 stände sonst nichts
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IXb | ★★ Plattenspieler | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 13th Aug 2021 | ||||||
Bis 3.R
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VIIIb | Meister Nadelöhr - with Soltar | 4 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 3rd Sep 2021 | |||||
63.Begehung
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VIIc | Falllinie | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 30th Oct 2021 | ||||||
16.Begehung
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VIIb | ★★★ Südriss direkt - with Erbse | 80m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | ||||
Schon ein garstiger bzw. äußerst anstrengender Kamin dann zum Gipfel
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VIIa ~VIIb | ★ Südwestkante (oU) - with Philipp R. | 25m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Nov 2014 | ||||
I needed a 2nd try for the hard move at the overhang
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 2017 | ||||
Dauerführung
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III/2 | ★ Turnerweg | 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | Don't Bother | Sat 8th Aug 2020 | ||||
Sehr enger Kamin und damit nichts für große Leute. Komischer Faustklemmerpart in der Mitte. Turnersprung(1-2) war das einzig schöne an der Route. Es gibt leichtere V (5en) im Gebirge.
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III/2 ~IV | Übergang | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | |||||
Don't forget your kneepads!
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VIIa | ★ Alter Weg | 10m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | ||||
good protection, after boulder crux
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VI | Neujahrsrinne | Sächsische Schweiz | Crap | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | |||||
good protection at the crux, but deadly run out. way easier then VI, a lot of jugs - a bit of slap - better IV with (!)
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IV | ★ Alter Weg | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | |||||
boulder start - okayish protection
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V | Schartenweg | Sächsische Schweiz | Crap | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | |||||
green slap, only holding protection after crux in 5m height
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VIIa | ★★ Kotzwand - with Bovist | 80m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Apr 2018 | ||||
My first route in Elbsandstein: a fantastic beginning. The first two rings can be easily supplemented with good slings, the traverses along the ridges are scary and run out, but safe enough. Took me a while to get used to the climbing. Soapy holds in the first third.
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VI | ★ Hintere Reibung - with Bovist | 30m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
Nice introduction to sandstone friction slabs.
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VIIa VIIIa | ★ Gerade Südostkante (Südostkante) - with Bovist | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
Difficult start (I went up the block with the new ring instead of the small chimney) followed by a vertical section with good holds up to the easy slab at the corner.
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VIIIc | ★★★ Kachelmann (Kachelmann (RP)) - with Bovist | 42m, 9 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
Amazing wall climbing with lots of difficult sections. Small comb-shaped structures, slopery sections, shallow underclings, small water drop pockets, friction slab, arête, this route has it all. Had to gather some courage a few times to continue doing difficult and insecure moves far above the rings. The friction slab traverse to the arête in the end almost threw me off, I was so glad when I was standing on the final ledge
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IV | ★★★ Löschnerwand - with Bovist | 14m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
Easy terrain to the block, then nice jugs to a ledge with a massive rock tunnel. Interesting upper section on slopers and some good pockets.
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VI | ★★ Mittelweg - with Bovist | 15m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
Beautiful black sandstone with lots of jugs and good placements for slings. Difficult section over the ring, then easier but more slopers than jugs to the top. Felt like I was almost blown off by the strong wind that suddenly came up when we arrived, but the climbing was still very much enjoyable.
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg - with monolith, David X, Bovist | 130m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | ||||
A true masterpiece. Slabby first pitch onto the big ledge, then brilliant structures along the "porcelain arête" to the start of unique diagonal chimneys, followed by a ridiculous series of grooves reminiscent of amusement park slides. The final two pitches you are horseback riding up two fins, with a little chimney/wall climbing intermezzo. Protection is extremely scarce, but if you keep a clear head, it's no issue.
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IV | ★★ Variante zur Westkante - with Bovist | 10m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | ||||
Powerful moves to get onto the slab, which you can basically run up in one fluid motion. Not a highlight, but worthwhile.
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I | ★ 1.Variante - with Bovist | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | ||||
Quick one to look at the sunset from the summit. The original chimney from "Alter Weg" looked a bit harder, or I didn't find the correct place to start up it, so I walked around the corner to the narrower chimney between the platform and the summit (this route).
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III | ★ Leichter Weg - with David X | 60m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 24th Sep 2021 | ||||
Not as easy as the name suggests. The first pitch up to the abseil point was already challenging and not protectable. Especially one move at about 10 m was scary. After a good look through the window, we chose to climb the chimney on the inside, which was a fun squeeze. After yet another little chimney, a somewhat sketchy section past a sandy bulge leads to a big platform. From here, it's another solo pitch to the summit via two ridges and a slabby groove (which the guide book calls a chimney for some reason).
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