1 - 100 di 160 ascensioni.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
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Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Mittlerer Lagerwächter | |||||||
V | Schartenweg | Orrenda | |||||
green slap, only holding protection after crux in 5m height
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Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Oberer Lagerwächter | |||||||
IV | ★ Alter Weg | ★ Buona | |||||
boulder start - okayish protection
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Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Knabe | |||||||
VI | Neujahrsrinne | Orrenda | |||||
good protection at the crux, but deadly run out. way easier then VI, a lot of jugs - a bit of slap - better IV with (!)
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Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Zahnsgrund Hirschzahn | |||||||
VIIa | ★ Alter Weg | 10m | ★ Buona | ||||
good protection, after boulder crux
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Dom 10 Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIb | ★★★ Südriss direkt - con Erbse | 80m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Schon ein garstiger bzw. äußerst anstrengender Kamin dann zum Gipfel
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Ven 8 Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Zahnsgrund Götze | |||||||
III/2 ~IV | Übergang | Media | |||||
Don't forget your kneepads!
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Mar 30 Gen 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Zahnsgrund Zahnsgrundwächter | |||||||
VIIIa | ★★ Letzter Zahn Waldhofvariante — 3 tentativi - con Jonas | 18m, 1 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
richtig schöner weg. nächstes mal rotpunkt
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Sab 30 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIIa Facile | ★★★ Feine Risse - con JZ | 70m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
realy cool route and somehow missed classic
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VIIc | ★★ Richtfest - con JZ | 70m, 5 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Richtfest alone = Classic. Aehligweg is also fine climbing.
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Dom 24 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Drohne | |||||||
VIIa | ★ Westweg Rechte Variante | ||||||
Den im KleFü beschriebenen Ring gibt es nicht mehr.
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Sab 16 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg | 130m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Wonderful day out
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Sab 16 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein | |||||||
VIIc | ★★ Omega - con Franta Kaván | 20m, 2 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
5 . Beg / 5th repeat
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Sab 16 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Bergfex | |||||||
VIIIc ~IXa | ★★ Mega Perls - con LL | 20m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
In my opinion AF VIIIb RP IXa
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Sab 16 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinwächter | |||||||
VIIIb Dura | HexTexMex - con LL | 30m, 3 | Pessima | ||||
5 . Beg / 5th repeat
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Dom 10 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Zahnsgrund Hirschzahn | |||||||
VIIa | ★ Alter Weg - con David X | 10m | ★ Buona | ||||
Tough little bastard. Powerful to the first ledge, then sort of balancy up to a good sling, and another balance passage onto the last ledge. Didn't have a long sling any more so my protection there was sketchy. The rock quality is good, but somehow the surface of the holds still feels slippery and moist even when it's as dry as it is these days, which didn't help.
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Sab 9 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Tante | |||||||
V | ★★★ Südostkante - con David X | 15m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Another fantastic #lastrouteoftheday. Flowy, steep arête in great, black rock with easy to place protection (some rock tunnels and obvious knotted slings, one of which must be the best placement I've ever used in Saxony) to one of the most recognizable summits in the area.
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Sab 9 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Onkel | |||||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg Hesse-Variante - con David X | 25m, 1 | ★ Buona | ||||
The long traverse at the beginning (when belaying in the wind gap) introduces quite the rope drag, maybe it's better to climb the start of "Westkante" instead. Interesting structures along the crack, everything looks suspiciously fragile, though. Had to set up belay at the ring due to aforementioned rope drag. Didn't realize we had to go left from there, so we accidentally climbed the variant.
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Sab 9 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Mittlerer Torstein | |||||||
V | Nischenrippe - con David X | 18m | Media | ||||
Looked easier and safer than it turned out to be. A little sandy/brittle at the beginning and also no protection. You're soloing up until you can slip into the chimney, then you can get a good sling onto the rib. Easy jug pulling from there, but you should carefully place protection if you can. The finish is dirty and a little overgrown, took me a good while to commit.
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Sab 9 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein | |||||||
VIIa | ★★ Nordostweg - con David X | 120m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
We wanted to start right where we slept and this was the most intriguing line (at least to me) in the vicinity. I don't really know what I was thinking when I donned shorts the day before, but looking at the narrow chimney start, I already knew I was going to have a lot of fun. Tried tying my sweat towel to my left knee using tape and set off. About 1,5 meters up, it was gone already and my knee started to get numb. Luckily I didn't feel any pain because it was so exhausting at the same time. After 5 meters or so (which took me ages) you can finally put your right foot on a good chicken head on the outside, which also offers the first sling placement. But actually, the climbing eases off a lot there, it's pretty relaxing up to the belay in the alcove at around 30 meters. I didn't spot the little belay bolt, so I set up belay at the big rock tunnel (body belay to not weigh and damage it). Second pitch starts off with an awkward overhanging chimney that's hard to get into. First tried with my back on the wrong side and had to slide back down. After a few meters, you reach a little rock head (good sling) and the climb transitions into a crack dihedral. I placed some slings there, but none of them were 100%, I suppose. Around 2 meters above the last sling, the holds get thin and the dihedral flattens. I can hardly imagine how the first ascensionist must have felt soloing this section (well actually, I can a little because I didn't want to fall into my slings, too!) The pockets you gain just in time are probably often dirty because of all of the heather growing on the big ledge above, adding to the spice, so I took my time and brushed out the sand and dirt before carefully pulling on them to shift my ass over onto the slab on the right. Belay on a bunch of trees. The start of pitch three is brittle and sandy, but it gets better quickly. Below the final overhang, I chose to go right a bit and up directly, which is how I interpreted the route description (also, the groove on the left was blocked by a birch tree). Quite nice pitch this way and a belay ring on top. From here it's another 30 meter stroll (various options) to the summit. Quite the journey!
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Mer 6 Set 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Müllerstein | |||||||
VIIc | ★★ Wieder im Mai - con Lukas | 20m, 3 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Probably the best route on main summit
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VIIIa | ★★ Steinbrecherweg - con Lukas | 2 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
If it was not in crappy material, it would be mega classic
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Ven 18 Ago 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III |
★★★ Schusterweg
- con
Jonas
| 130m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
46min mit wechselführung, nette seilschaft an der porzelankante überholt in der reibung rechts. Locker die stunde geknackt 😜 leider vergessen dem schußter an die riech röhre zu grapschen, also steht demnächst ein kasten bier oben für euch!
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III | ★★★ Schusterweg - con Carl G. Pophal | 130m, 3 | |||||
Wir haben eine speetaktion gezogen und den Schusterweg in 46 min vollendet. Porzelankante wurde mit der Reibung rechts daneben umgangen da eine Zweierseilschaft vor uns war.
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Dom 13 Ago 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Zahnsgrund Zahnsgrundwächter | |||||||
VIIIa | ★★ Letzter Zahn Waldhofvariante | 18m, 1 | ★ Buona | ||||
reibung, reibung und reibung. dor stift gugt auf jeden fall. oben raus kaum absicherbar.
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Sab 12 Ago 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Onkel | |||||||
VIIa | ★★ Südriss - con Player One | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
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Ven 11 Ago 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III ~IV | ★ Turnerweg - con Player Two | 3 | Media | ||||
Den dreiteiligen Kamin (m.E. Schulterriss für den Vorsteiger) sollte man nicht unterschätzen. 2. AÖ ist ein Ring. An dieser vorbei bis zu einem Absatz wo sich ein Nachholstift befindet (Achtung! Nicht bis ganz nach oben. Stift kann leicht übersehen werden).
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Dom 30 Lug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg - con jonesbmx | 130m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
1h 6min 13sek. mit wechsel, nächster versuch unter 1h hoffentlich. diesmal mit wechsel führung und porzelankante und schräger kamin, sowie die reitgrate verbunden.
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Mer 5 Lug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Mittlerer Torstein | |||||||
I | ★★★ Alter Weg - con Ali | 45m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
kletterei mit Wanderschuhe
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Ven 2 Giu 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIIc Facile | ★★ Verbindungswand - con LL | 35m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Verbindungswand only, no finish. My excuse is to climb the complete original Renger one day.
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IXa Facile | ★★★ Über den Drachenrücken - con LL | 80m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
The most difficult part today was the common part with Direkte Westkante. Saw a video so no OS.
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Sab 13 Mag 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Kesselturm | |||||||
VIIa | ★★ Westweg Alpenbubenvariante - con Player One, und Matu, und Sarah | 25m, 2 | ★ Buona | ||||
m.U.
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Sab 13 Mag 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Bierdeckel | |||||||
VIIa ~VIIb | Putzmudel - con Player Two, Matu und Sarah | Media | |||||
Die Route steigt normalerweise weiter links als Üh ein und verläuft durch die Rinne. Sehr moosig aber mit einem Putzfimmel machbar
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Gio 4 Mag 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Wetterhaube | |||||||
VIIa ~VIIb | ★ Alter Weg - con LL | 15m, 1 | |||||
only as a finish after Kachelmann
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Gio 4 Mag 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Dreifingerturm | |||||||
VIIIc | ★★★ Ostrisse Untere Variante - con LL | 55m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Lun 1 Mag 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinnadel | |||||||
VIIb | ★ Schrumpfkopf - con Ellen, David X, Bovist | 20m, 2 | ★ Buona | ||||
Nice slab climb. There's a mediocre chicken head a few meters above the ring, but I wouldn't recommend falling anyway. From the ridge, it's like "Alter Weg" to the summit (well, not quite, because the summit shouldn't be climbed any more, looks hideous, too) on good holds. I was told that these few meters were quite exposed, but it didn't feel like that to me.
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Lun 1 Mag 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Dreifingerturm | |||||||
III | ★★ Alter Weg - con Ellen, David X, Bovist | 50m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Classic chimney adventure. Quite well-protected start, you can place big slings just before the entrance to the chimney, which is good because that is the hardest part of the route. Quite a narrow gap to squeeze through, luckily there are a few footholds on the left wall and there's even one bigger hold on the inside. After that, it's 40 meters of unprotected chimney. After around 15 meters, it gets wider and there's a big rib in the back. I made my upward progress by jamming my fist and left leg into the left crack while jamming my right foot toe to heel into the right one. Certainly possible to just stem all the way, but this somehow felt safer. I set up belay on the ledge after 30 meters. The last 10 meters of chimney are pure stemming bliss, almost entirely without any disturbing footholds. :-D From the "middle finger", it's one small step and an easy groove to the main summit.
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Dom 23 Apr 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Schrammtorfreund | |||||||
VI Dura | ★ Heimatlied — 2 tentativi | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Habe beim ersten versuch den unteren überhängenden riss im aw umgangen, dann nochmal ausgeboldert und geschafft. 4 sau anstrengende züge auf den ersten 3m (im normalfall ungesichert). Ich schätze den einstig auf nen V4-5 bolder. Der hand bis klapperfaust riss bis zum schlingen stand ist eine super 6, die Reibung oben raus eher eine 3. toller weg mit reichlich Publikums Verkehr samt Ratschlägen (Teils tatsächlich hilfreich).
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Sab 22 Apr 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg - con jonesbmx | 130m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
1h 23min, alle seillängen einzeln und nicht im wechsel.
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Dom 19 Mar 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinwächter | |||||||
VI | ★ Westkante - con mathias scholz | ★ Buona | |||||
Das Stück zum ersten Ring ist nicht ganz ohne und schlecht zu sichern.
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Dom 19 Mar 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein | |||||||
VIIc | ★★ Südwand - con Raimund | 60m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Amazing line. It's already a bit surreal standing at the start on that massive flake just hanging there, with a chasm almost like a Bergschrund between it and the wall. The difficult and scary part is right at the start. The first ring is quite low, and after that you need to just power through the hand crack and not get irritated by that one little section where the jams are a little shaky. Draws up diagonally to the right from the second ring, with juggy climbing and good protection, then up towards a nasty little offwidth that ends up in a finishing chimney.
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Dom 19 Mar 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
V | ★★ Hoher Riss - con Raimund, Heinz | 70m, 1 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
What a line. Basically divided into three parts. First, 30 meters of unprotectable double chimney/dihedral to a big ledge with some decent pro. Another 20 meters of offwidth crack dihedral with a few mediocre sling placements, and to finish it off, a narrow, exhausting chimney section. Hats off to Raimund for leading this.
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Dom 19 Mar 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Knabe | |||||||
II | ★ Alter Weg | 18m | |||||
Harder than I thought it would be. The start might prove difficult for smaller people. The rest is easy, though.
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Sab 18 Mar 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
IXa | ★★★ Über den Drachenrücken | 80m, 2 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Wow
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Ven 17 Mar 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIa | ★★ Kotzwand | 80m, 3 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
2nd ring, no time to finish until dark
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Ven 10 Feb 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg | 130m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Traum, bei ca -1C‘. Sonne auf Gipfel machts wett.
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Mar 1 Nov 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Onkel | |||||||
VIIa Dura | ★★ Südriss - con Tim, Luiz | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Schöner Riss, ziemlich steil und lässt sich mit genügend Ausdauer gut absichern.
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Dom 4 Set 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Max und Moritz | |||||||
VI ~VIIa | ★★ Nordwand - con JN | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Hard and not-so-nice first three meters. Than excellent.
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Dom 4 Set 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Schrammtorwächter | |||||||
VI Facile | ★★★ !Alter Weg - con JN | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
easy for VI but courageous
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Dom 4 Set 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinkegel | |||||||
VIIIa Dura | ★★ Große Reibung - Sonnige Variante - con JN | 38m, 4 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Hard for the grade at 1.R (the support place). Not so great to deserve two stars in guidebook.
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Sab 3 Set 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg - con Marcus | 130m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Heute zum ersten Mal begangenen. Es war genial. Ich teile aber die Einschätzung nicht, dass ein Anfänger mit einem erfahrenen Bergsteiger das locker schafft. Im Gegenteil, es wird dann eher für alle (auch unbeteiligte Nachsteiger) eine Tortour.
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Mer 31 Ago 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein | |||||||
II | ★★★ Schusterweg | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Kopflampe im Kaminlabyrinth nicht vergessen...
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Gio 25 Ago 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Östlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinturm | |||||||
VI | ★★ Ostkante - con Flo | 12m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Von oben gesichert
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VIIb | ★★ Nordostwand Variante - con Flo | 14m, 2 | ★ Buona | ||||
Von oben gesichert
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Mar 14 Giu 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Max und Moritz | |||||||
II | ★★ Alter Weg - con Christian | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
Für den Grad ist das Kaninstück relativ schwer...
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Mar 14 Giu 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Flasche | |||||||
II | ★★ Schartenweg - con Christian | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Gutmütiger Kamin
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Mar 14 Giu 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Bierdeckel | |||||||
II | ★★ Westkante - con Christian | 15m | |||||
Klassiker
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Sab 11 Giu 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Meurerturm | |||||||
VIIIb | ★ Krämerriss Direkteinstieg - con LL | 40m, 3 | Media | ||||
Dangerous - the VIIIb moves are below 1.R. Above it's VIIc in line with the original.
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VIIIc | ★★ Route Zehn - con LL | 43m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Dom 15 Mag 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Baustein | |||||||
VIIa | ★ Affengeil - con Marek Albrecht | 2 | |||||
erste VIIa
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Mer 11 Mag 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIIa | Hungerkante - con vilda_hkvdf | 80m, 4 | Media | ||||
First few meters sandy, then from ring bolt great climbing for like 10 meters, then absolutely crappy and brittle material almost to 3.R. Would not recommend.
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VIIIa | Hungerkante - con Franta Kaván | 50m, 4 | ★ Buona | ||||
Recommended if you don't mind brittle and sandy parts. Otherwise not recommended!
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Mar 10 Mag 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Knabe | |||||||
VI | Neujahrsrinne - con Linda | Media | |||||
Var. straight, according to guide, best route on tower, still, not very nice
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Mar 10 Mag 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIc | ★ Illmerweg - con Franta Kaván | 80m, 1 | ★ Buona | ||||
This route is not for everyone. Make sure you are well prepared
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VIIIb | ★★★ Reginawand - con Linda | 80m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Classic reibung / slab. 5 ring bolts,but nothing else, expect to do tricky moves high above them
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Gio 28 Apr 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIIa | ★ Sexy-Variante Linke Erwähnung - con Franta Kaván | 80m, 8 | ★ Buona | ||||
grounded at Sexy-Var. orig. so went for the left one
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Dom 19 Dic 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Mädel | |||||||
IXb | Mädchen für alles - con 2020-04 | 25m, 5 | Media | ||||
A bit chossy still. Physical vertical climbing after the start and an exciting slab as a finish
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Dom 31 Ott 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Direkte Westkante - con LL | 80m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Sab 30 Ott 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Hinterer Torsteinkegel | |||||||
VIIc | Falllinie | ||||||
16.Begehung
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Sab 25 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Unbenannte Spitze | |||||||
II | Alter Weg - con David X | 15m | ★ Buona | ||||
Little downclimb from the summit of "Max und Moritz", then quite exposed but on good holds to the summit.
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Sab 25 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Max und Moritz | |||||||
II | ★★ Alter Weg - con David X | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
Scrubbed up the first chimney without too much elegance; the second chimney had more technique involved and for me was the crux of the whole thing, especially getting out to the ledge. From there, a short wall leads to a nice stemming chimney that grows wider and wider, to great, rust-coloured jugs at the end.
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Sab 25 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Viererturm | |||||||
VIIa | ★ Südwestkante - con David X | 25m, 2 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Powerful moves above the first nR (without support). Felt a bit like FKV-Kante light. Friction slab runout to the top, almost felt like the hardest moves were directly below the summit. Might of course be due to the fact that I climbed #barefoot.
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Sab 25 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Vorderer Torstein | |||||||
VIIa | ★★★ Erkerweg - con David X | 60m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Brilliant classic, long and varied. We used the original start via the sandy, but juggy wall. In the hardest section, it seems like you can traverse left around the corner for protection, but I first found a really good sling on the right arête, so I went up there for a few meters and traversed back left at the second ledge. The second pitch is definitely the "money pitch" of the route, with exposed wall climbing on fantastic structures. I put in relatively few slings to not break the climbing flow. From the last ring, it's an exposed friction slab to the plateau. To finish off, the last pitch starts with a great "Überfall" to the main summit.
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Sab 25 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Meurerturm | |||||||
IV | ★★★ Genießerspalte - con David X | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
One of a kind exhausting offwidth crack/narrow chimney. Looks bloody scary because it's clear that you can't protect it at all (except if you haul up a whole rope and jam it into the crack) but it turns out you can't fall anyway if you stay in the crack. With the right technique ("Hacke Spitze" on the left, frog and chicken wing on the right), it's manageable and you can rest at any point. Every inch forward costs a lot of energy, though.
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Ven 24 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Fotografenspitze | |||||||
VI | ★ Talkante - con David X | 15m, 1 | ★ Buona | ||||
Nice wall climbing on big sidepulls. The ring sits a meter too high for some reason, so you have to do the hardest moves without protection.
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Ven 24 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Südlicher Osterturm | |||||||
III | ★ Leichter Weg - con David X | 60m | ★ Buona | ||||
Not as easy as the name suggests. The first pitch up to the abseil point was already challenging and not protectable. Especially one move at about 10 m was scary. After a good look through the window, we chose to climb the chimney on the inside, which was a fun squeeze. After yet another little chimney, a somewhat sketchy section past a sandy bulge leads to a big platform. From here, it's another solo pitch to the summit via two ridges and a slabby groove (which the guide book calls a chimney for some reason).
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Dom 5 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Saurier | |||||||
VIIb | Ferrosaurus | 3 | |||||
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Ven 3 Set 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinnadel | |||||||
VIIIb | Meister Nadelöhr - con Soltar | 4 | |||||
63.Begehung
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Ven 13 Ago 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein | |||||||
IXb | ★★ Plattenspieler | ||||||
Bis 3.R
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VIIIb | ★★★ Direkte Knirpelwand (Direkte Knirpelwand (RP)) - con LL | 80m, 5 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
too hot, above 4.R was already on sun
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VIIIb VIIIc | ★★★ Knirpelwand Einstiegsvariante - con LL | 80m, 7 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Good alternative for reaching the ledge. Be careful under 1.R. 11.Beg.
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Gio 3 Giu 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Meurerturm | |||||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Westwand - con LL | 55m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Mar 1 Giu 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VIIc | ★★★ Schönwetterwand - con Linda | 80m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Nice route, disgusting offwidth
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VIIIb | ★★ Südwand Direktvariante - con vilda_hkvdf, Linda | 80m, 4 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
VIIIb | ★★ Südwand Direktvariante - con LL, Franta Kaván | 80m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
One of the best routes I've climbed. Like, ever. Difficult slab moves just before 4.R. Stay calm and work with your feet I went straight from 3rd to 4th; somewhere you can read that its better to go up first and then traverse left. We haven't tried.
#meisterweg
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Lun 31 Mag 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Vorderer Torstein | |||||||
III | ★ Perry-Smith-Weg - con Stefanie Krell | ||||||
Bin falsch abgebogen, und im Ausstieg der Bruchholzkante zum Vorgipfel gelandet... Nicht zu empfehlen, für Leute die eine III klettern wollen.
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VIIc | ★★★ Bruchholzkante - con Stefanie Krell | 70m, 2 | |||||
Bin aus dem Perry-Smith Weg falsch abgebogen, und hab an der SU im Übergang zum VG abgebrochen.
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Lun 31 Mag 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Südlicher Osterturm | |||||||
III | ★ Leichter Weg - con Stefanie Krell | 60m | ★ Buona | ||||
Für III das obere Ende der Fahnenstange... Ziemlich geile Expedition, nix für Anfänger.
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Dom 23 Mag 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Jungfer | |||||||
VIIa | ★★ Alter Weg - con LL | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
extent 2.AÖ to make it one long pitch
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Dom 23 Mag 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Eunuch | |||||||
VIIc | ★★★ Sagenhafte Rinne - con LL | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
First three meters are the most difiicult. Then just pure pleasure.
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Mag 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Meurerturm | |||||||
IXa | ★★ Lineal | 55m, 2 | |||||
Pretty ok/easy for the grade ... just keep calm
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Sab 20 Mar 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Südlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinwächter | |||||||
V | ★★ Talweg Obere Variante (Obere Variante zum Talweg) - con Julika, Jonathan G. | 32m, 1 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Sehr schöne Hangel und Handrisskletterei. Oben die Wandstufe des AW haben wir (wegen Schnee) gebaut. Nette Sache.
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Mer 3 Mar 2021 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Östlicher Schrammsteinkamm Schrammsteinturm | |||||||
VIIb | ★★★ Nordostwand | 14m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
schön und gut gesichert. Großer Block ist hohl!
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Sab 8 Ago 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III/2 | ★ Turnerweg | 3 | Pessima | ||||
Sehr enger Kamin und damit nichts für große Leute. Komischer Faustklemmerpart in der Mitte. Turnersprung(1-2) war das einzig schöne an der Route. Es gibt leichtere V (5en) im Gebirge.
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Dom 26 Lug 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
VI | ★ Falkenschlucht - con Julika | ★ Buona | |||||
Ziemlich eindrucksvoller Weg. Eigentlich normale Kaminkletterei, aber sehr luftig und teilweise sehr breit. Bis zum Ring wahrscheinlich auch während des Monsun trocken, deshalb nur bis hierhin.
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Mar 17 Mar 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Bierdeckel | |||||||
IV | ★★ Variante zur Westkante - con DavidX | 10m | ★ Buona | ||||
First big move on the slab on the start a bit reachy, but then a quick stroll to the top.
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Mar 17 Mar 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg - con Christoph Rauch, DavidX, Bovist | 130m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Every pitch a dreamlike path to the next pitch. You don't want it to stop.
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Mar 17 Mar 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Flasche | |||||||
I | ★ 1.Variante - con Bovist | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Quick one to look at the sunset from the summit. The original chimney from "Alter Weg" looked a bit harder, or I didn't find the correct place to start up it, so I walked around the corner to the narrower chimney between the platform and the summit (this route).
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Mar 17 Mar 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Schrammsteinkette Bierdeckel | |||||||
IV | ★★ Variante zur Westkante - con Bovist | 10m | ★ Buona | ||||
Powerful moves to get onto the slab, which you can basically run up in one fluid motion. Not a highlight, but worthwhile.
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Mar 17 Mar 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Falkenstein Falkenstein | |||||||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg - con monolith, David X, Bovist | 130m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
A true masterpiece. Slabby first pitch onto the big ledge, then brilliant structures along the "porcelain arête" to the start of unique diagonal chimneys, followed by a ridiculous series of grooves reminiscent of amusement park slides. The final two pitches you are horseback riding up two fins, with a little chimney/wall climbing intermezzo. Protection is extremely scarce, but if you keep a clear head, it's no issue.
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Sab 15 Feb 2020 - Sächsische Schweiz | |||||||
Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein | |||||||
II | ★★★ Schusterweg - con Julika | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Combined with the "Seydesche Variante" this is a Long, interesting and classic adventure. complex route finding, especially in the dark chimneys of the Schusterweg. Most of the route is best climbed Free (without Rope) but abseiling is easier than down climbing.
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1 - 100 di 160 ascensioni.