Ascensioni in Wildensteine che possiede Informazioni sui passaggi

6m boulder, no protection

Whipper into an old sling, then took the Maiweg out at the top..terrifying and epic

Only half of it

Mehr Schlingen als Meter, sehr schön!

Umstürzende Bäume um uns rum, verletzter Wanderin geholfen inkl. anschließendem Bergwachteinsatz, nach dem Zustieg war der tägliche Bedarf an Aufregung erstmal gründlich gestillt. Daher spontanes chillen auf den Rabentürmchen, herrlich!

Sehr brüchig

Immer nass!

Dreckig!!

v.o.g.

Dreckig!!

Schwer über den Bauch, mit Aufschlagsgefahr auf der Rampe

nice hand jams

vog

Wanted to climb "Westkante", but that didn't seem nice enough, so we decided to solo the AW, which is stiff in the grade, but nice! #barefoot

A little athletic dance into the wall, then some delicate moves to the ring. From there it's interesting crack climbing with good protection. Slightly bold over the last bulge before the final slab.

Awkward right-leaning groove to a ledge, then one daring move on the arête.

Tough crack for the grade at the start. Easier, but a little sandy and more athletic to the ledge (tree). Rough, narrow chimney (exhausting!) to the big ledge below the summit, then step over and easy friction slab to the top.

Bold start up the dihedral to a "Hundebahnhof". Mediocre rock tunnel there, but apparently I overlooked a massive one on the opposite wall, quite far back. In chimney technique and a 360 up to the ledge (good slings on the way) and through the groove (another placement for a long runner) to the top. Varied climb.

without support, according to Heinicke VIIb, which I agree with

Weird ring placement, hardest move 3m above the 3.R( which should be at least 2m higher as there is good hourglass just next to the 3.R)

Kurz aber sehr schön

Henkel, Löcher, Sanduhren - ein Traum!

Sehr schöne Kletterei, wirklich viele Sicherungsmöglichkeiten, auf Seilführung achten.

Feucht und moosig. Kann man machen oder auch nicht.

Kann man machen, gibt aber schönere Wege. Bleibt länger nass und feucht.

Begehung Nr. 2 Beste Option auf den Haufen

Begehung Nr. 30

noch der beste Weg auf diesen moosigen Haufen

Hinter meiner Tochter hinterher (7) bis zum Gipfel. Klasse Kinderweg. Der Sichernde muss aber etwas auf die Seilführung achten.

Und auch dass muss ja mal passieren. Schon so oft gemacht und dann doch verrissen. Mit dem Kopf ganz wo anders klappt auch dieser schöne Weg mal nicht :-/

Beautiful and varied climbing with a spicy crack section in the middle. The start is well-protected and there's a good sling at the start of the crack, but then it's quite run out to the second ring, at which I arrived with bloody knees due to the excessive jamming in the broad crack. Beautiful jug wall to the third ring and another crux at the very top to gain the slab.

We actually wanted to climb Direkte Südwand, but the start was still wet from the shower, so I dove into this one. Tried to climb it RP but had to rest in the first ring already because the start was so exhausting and terribly bold, with the first crux with irreversible moves at about 3 meters, then some more hard and tricky climbing to a good placement for two bomber slings which protect the way to the first (!) ring. Clipping that is the second crux, because the huge hold below it turns out to be really bad. Then follows another really hard and reachy section over the slab to the second ring. After reaching that, it gets easier until the third ring, but I had to rest once more there to figure out the friction slab to the top. At this point, the sun had already set and I was starting to feel bad for my second, so I hurried up and gave everything to stand up on the bad smears and throw for the one good hold, with success. Felt much harder than VIIIb.

Delightful climbing on sharper edges to the ring (which is placed a bit strangely there). Best to climb up along the arête to a good rock tunnel, then down again for half a meter to gain the sidepulls around the arête. Bold moves over the edge and a few nice meters of slab to the summit.

Really good friction slab with just the right amount of holds. Hard passages above both rings, and slightly committing to the second (no good placements). Nice mono pocket over the first ring. #barefoot

We wanted to climb "Westkante" but failed to find the correct start. The overhang at the start (first crux of "DuD") is extremely sandy, unfortunately. Because we thought us to be in "Westkante", we didn't go to the second ring of this route here, but instead climbed slightly to the right of it and around the arête to the ledge. The book says there's a bolt on that ledge to belay from, but I didn't find one, so I continued up the slab to the next ledge, which has an abseil station.

Great easy climbing in a fantastic setting, climbing through the roof of the cave. Good rock tunnels abound as soon as you made it past the first crack.

Nice little chimney from the balcony of the cave. ↑↓

My quality rating is for the start in clean condition. Unfortunately, it was utterly full of sand for us. Otherwise nice boulder start to get into the dihedral, easy wall climbing along iron knobs to the ring, a nice traverse under the roof to the ledge and a slightly bold short rib to the next big ledge. From there it's chimneys and easy slabs to the top, still a bit dirty.

Not too easy to find. Went up to the summit in the evening to have a better overview for the next day.

gerader