Ascents in Schrammsteine having Beta

Vorstieg vug.

green slap, only holding protection after crux in 5m height

boulder start - okayish protection

good protection at the crux, but deadly run out. way easier then VI, a lot of jugs - a bit of slap - better IV with (!)

good protection, after boulder crux

Schon ein garstiger bzw. äußerst anstrengender Kamin dann zum Gipfel

Don't forget your kneepads!

richtig schöner weg. nächstes mal rotpunkt

realy cool route and somehow missed classic

Richtfest alone = Classic. Aehligweg is also fine climbing.

Den im KleFü beschriebenen Ring gibt es nicht mehr.

Wonderful day out

5 . Beg / 5th repeat

In my opinion AF VIIIb RP IXa

5 . Beg / 5th repeat

Tough little bastard. Powerful to the first ledge, then sort of balancy up to a good sling, and another balance passage onto the last ledge. Didn't have a long sling any more so my protection there was sketchy. The rock quality is good, but somehow the surface of the holds still feels slippery and moist even when it's as dry as it is these days, which didn't help.

Another fantastic #lastrouteoftheday. Flowy, steep arête in great, black rock with easy to place protection (some rock tunnels and obvious knotted slings, one of which must be the best placement I've ever used in Saxony) to one of the most recognizable summits in the area.

The long traverse at the beginning (when belaying in the wind gap) introduces quite the rope drag, maybe it's better to climb the start of "Westkante" instead. Interesting structures along the crack, everything looks suspiciously fragile, though. Had to set up belay at the ring due to aforementioned rope drag. Didn't realize we had to go left from there, so we accidentally climbed the variant.

Looked easier and safer than it turned out to be. A little sandy/brittle at the beginning and also no protection. You're soloing up until you can slip into the chimney, then you can get a good sling onto the rib. Easy jug pulling from there, but you should carefully place protection if you can. The finish is dirty and a little overgrown, took me a good while to commit.

We wanted to start right where we slept and this was the most intriguing line (at least to me) in the vicinity. I don't really know what I was thinking when I donned shorts the day before, but looking at the narrow chimney start, I already knew I was going to have a lot of fun. Tried tying my sweat towel to my left knee using tape and set off. About 1,5 meters up, it was gone already and my knee started to get numb. Luckily I didn't feel any pain because it was so exhausting at the same time. After 5 meters or so (which took me ages) you can finally put your right foot on a good chicken head on the outside, which also offers the first sling placement. But actually, the climbing eases off a lot there, it's pretty relaxing up to the belay in the alcove at around 30 meters. I didn't spot the little belay bolt, so I set up belay at the big rock tunnel (body belay to not weigh and damage it). Second pitch starts off with an awkward overhanging chimney that's hard to get into. First tried with my back on the wrong side and had to slide back down. After a few meters, you reach a little rock head (good sling) and the climb transitions into a crack dihedral. I placed some slings there, but none of them were 100%, I suppose. Around 2 meters above the last sling, the holds get thin and the dihedral flattens. I can hardly imagine how the first ascensionist must have felt soloing this section (well actually, I can a little because I didn't want to fall into my slings, too!) The pockets you gain just in time are probably often dirty because of all of the heather growing on the big ledge above, adding to the spice, so I took my time and brushed out the sand and dirt before carefully pulling on them to shift my ass over onto the slab on the right. Belay on a bunch of trees. The start of pitch three is brittle and sandy, but it gets better quickly. Below the final overhang, I chose to go right a bit and up directly, which is how I interpreted the route description (also, the groove on the left was blocked by a birch tree). Quite nice pitch this way and a belay ring on top. From here it's another 30 meter stroll (various options) to the summit. Quite the journey!

Probably the best route on main summit

If it was not in crappy material, it would be mega classic

46min mit wechselführung, nette seilschaft an der porzelankante überholt in der reibung rechts. Locker die stunde geknackt 😜 leider vergessen dem schußter an die riech röhre zu grapschen, also steht demnächst ein kasten bier oben für euch!

Wir haben eine speetaktion gezogen und den Schusterweg in 46 min vollendet. Porzelankante wurde mit der Reibung rechts daneben umgangen da eine Zweierseilschaft vor uns war.

reibung, reibung und reibung. dor stift gugt auf jeden fall. oben raus kaum absicherbar.

2 m links von Südriss: "So vergehen die Jahre" - Techel (Erstbegeher) - VIII a (Nachstieg, alles frei)

Den dreiteiligen Kamin (m.E. Schulterriss für den Vorsteiger) sollte man nicht unterschätzen. 2. AÖ ist ein Ring. An dieser vorbei bis zu einem Absatz wo sich ein Nachholstift befindet (Achtung! Nicht bis ganz nach oben. Stift kann leicht übersehen werden).

1h 6min 13sek. mit wechsel, nächster versuch unter 1h hoffentlich. diesmal mit wechsel führung und porzelankante und schräger kamin, sowie die reitgrate verbunden.

kletterei mit Wanderschuhe

Verbindungswand only, no finish. My excuse is to climb the complete original Renger one day.

The most difficult part today was the common part with Direkte Westkante. Saw a video so no OS.

m.U.

Die Route steigt normalerweise weiter links als Üh ein und verläuft durch die Rinne. Sehr moosig aber mit einem Putzfimmel machbar

only as a finish after Kachelmann

#meisterweg