Ascents in Ostwand

With P1 of 'Neue Route'

Scary as always

8a

Leider schon teilweise schmierig. Allerdings schöne Moves. Balance clip nach der Schlüsselstelle.

Starts left of the east pillar and moves next to its dihedral through vertical terrain. At the 5th bolt, turn left into the big dihedral to the south-east pillar. Here there is an old, rotten loop where you could make a belaystation to reduce the rope friction in the 2nd part of the route. But be careful, one of the blocks is loose. Afterwards the route continues steep and with holes for a few metres until the holds become less and you climb along the edge to the last belaystation of the normal route.At the end it even becomes slightly overhanging.

For me it didn't really work out. 1st crux right at the 3rd bolt. There is a good 2-finger hole for the left hand, but only a (too) small crimp for the right and I could only step on a jib on the right, which is also not optimal. I see 2 solutions: a long pull to the right to a very good hold or a long pull up to a trailer.I tried the latter option but then you are very stretched and lose mobility. To make matters worse, there were no steps for me on the left. I then went around the place via the east pillar. Then it was relaxed on super rock, through the gully over to the 2nd crux. Then the rain came. At first it only drizzled lightly and in the lee of the rock it was still easy to climb. The drizzle was relaxing. But I didn't dwell too long on the 2nd crux and passed it on the left and I also had to leave out the final overhang, as I had clipped it wrong when abseiling. At the summit I could put on my rain jacket and then there was no stopping the rain. It was raining cats and dogs.

Failed to onsight it because I missed the best hold of the route at in the overhanging section

Years ago I climbed that with my wife. Mossy entry but worth it.

#alzheimer-flash link up with 2nd pitch of 'Frühsportweg'

Rope soloing makes it easy for the mind to climb this crack connection into the 2nd pitch of 'Frühsportweg'. Lead ascents should be protected with additional gear. Friends may come in handy. Overall a good line. Enjoyed it. #onsight

Just the first pitch to switch into 'Via Andreas'. Always fun this route. Starts steeply and challenges the leisure climber right at the beginning.

#dawnpatrol