Ascents in Donautal

Just for the sake of completeness we wanted to ascent this route but we didn't find it. While searching the route we climbed the very right arete that ends with a small pillar. Pro was possible at the start of the pillar, 10m above ground. Overall difficulty around 4.

Good but very dirty holes.

Both pitches in one try.

Because of the polished start of the route one of my feet slipped away and I fall. So no onsight ascent for this one.

#afterwork

Da mir der erste Haken etwas hoch war, bin ich in die Route links davon eingestiegen und vom 2.BH rübergequert. Danach bin ich runter und bis zum 2. BH im Nachstieg, deswegen logge ich die ganze Route mal als Toprope. Hab den polierten Einstieg dann später nochmal probiert - also man kann schon einigermaßen kontrolliert (ohne die glatten Stellen) an den 1. Haken gelangen. Vielleicht beim nächsten Mal dann Rotpunkt. Achso, die 2. SL habe ich mir dann gespart.

Continuation after the first half of 'Ruckzuck'.

Super Route, unten Keil(e)

deutlich angenehmer zu gehen als die Normalroute!

Am Anfang verstiegen: man bleibt im Riss bzw. Kamin und geht dann erst nach rechts.

Für mich deutlich härter, war froh im Nachstieg (überhaupt) oben an zu kommen

Needs some gardening ;-) Used second bolt, rest trad only. #afterwork

heute hat es mich nicht gewundert dass ich reinsitzen musste. Ist fast beruhigend dass ich es noch nie geschafft habe

Viel zu schmutzig.

Mit Hänger bis zum Quergang

Route ist ok, lief auch gut bis ins obere Drittel, aber es rieselt ständig trockene Erde runter und legt sich in Augen und Lunge :-(

First time I got on this classic. First I thought, oh well protected - looks like a plaisir climb - but then I failed at the crux between second and third bolt. Found the important crimpy side pull after some attempts. Quite tricky and hard for me. Because Sonnendeck didn't want to second the route to cleanup I used the last bolt of the route to lower down. The belay is at least 5m left of the start, so cleaning the route descending through that anchor will be hard work.

Does anyone climb the second pitch of this route? I suppose not. Georg Hermann should we place an additional lower off anchor to ease climbing of the first pitch?

Well, the crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Very technical moves at bad side pulls. The essential holds are at a tiny and hidden flake. Put the left hand at very top of the flake to have the space to match it with the right hand. Then sort your feet to reach the good undercling/side-pull with the left hand. That's it. Continue the flake and stand up on the pillar...

With regards to the guidebook this route is supposed to be a classic, but I would say it is just a very good historical route because for the interesting part from a sport climbing point of view, it would need a new lower off anchor so that you do not have to climb to the historic stance. This is only worthwhile for adventurers.

First ascended in 1955 the line chooses the easiest access to the crack-dihedral 5m above ground. Then follows the crack until it gets overhanging and heads to left onto a ledge. Around the corner further left is the stance to start into the easy second and last pitch. Reaching the stance was quite tricky as the hazelnut bush has spread again. Subsequent rope teams should think about bringing a saw and hedge trimmer. There is also plenty of work for a gardener on the second pitch. The second pitch is protected by one bolt only (5m above the belay) and it follows an easy dihedral to the top of the rock.

The view from the top is quite rewarding. Don't forget the Gipfelbier

What a shame. Failed again at the crux between the 2nd and 3rd piton. And why? Three guesses. Of course, the feet weren't in place again. I didn't do any better the rest of the way. It wasn't my day.

Leider hat der Regen den Versuch beendet..

Heute nicht zum Aufwärmen geeignet..