Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ 5 direct — 2 attempts - with Bogdan Maier | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
6a | ★★★ 4 — 2 attempts - with Bogdan Maier | 12m, 6 | |||||
6a | ★★★ 4 - with Bianca Sbiera | 12m, 6 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ 5 - with Bianca Sbiera | 12m, 6 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ 5 direct - with Bianca Sbiera | 12m, 6 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ 1 - with Bianca Sbiera | 10m, 6 | |||||
Sat 11th Sep 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
★★ Sparring partner | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Needs more cleaning
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6b+ 6b+/c | ★★★ Verbasco | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 2nd Aug 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
★★ Sparring partner | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Almost did the second crux and some progress on the first. The heat wave doesn't help either.
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Mon 2nd Aug 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b | ★★ Spoiled hawk | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7b | ★★ Spoiled hawk | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really dont know how to grade this one, actually its an one-mover dyno from 2 terrible holds and could be from 7a+ to 7b+. I will go with 7b and repeaters will tell if i was right or not.
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Sat 31st Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Warm up
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7b | ★★ Spoiled hawk | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I remember it being hard and calling it a possible 7c last year. Today i did the dyno for the first time and didn't seem so hard, for sure being lighter and stronger helps. Last year i couldn't hold the very bad sloppy crimp... Very beautiful though.
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7b | ★★★ Sami the dragon (first part) | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7b | ★★★ Sami the dragon (first part) | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Somehow i managed . 2 power endurance cruxes with not so good rest in between 7b my proposal.
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Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Sami the dragon (first part) | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Too hot to send but found better beta for the finale of the second crux.
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6c | ★★★ Red cornus extension | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
When a did the fa i kept as direct as i could so i thought 7a was ok. But that's not the easiest way its obvious that u bridge to the left and becomes much easier so i think 6c is the appropriate grade with this new beta.
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Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ 7 | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
★★ Sparring partner | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Started cleaning this one, hard bouldery start to slab to bouldery finale.
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Sun 25th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Sami the dragon (first part) | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned and did all the moves.
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7b | ★★★ Sami the dragon (first part) | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A first attempt lost at the second crux. 2 cruxes with the second the longest , very beautiful power endurance moves on sloppers sidepulls and crimps.
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6c+ 6c | ★★★ Red cornus extension | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Maybe 6c+ suits better.
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Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Sami the dragon (first part) | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another bouldery gem on the orange wall. Cleaned and did most of it apart the last moves before the anchor. Power endurance moves on sidepulls and sloppers with bad feet.
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Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
6c | ★★ Nami | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Would have been a classic if it weren't for the sharp 2 finger pocket on the crux.
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Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
6b+ 6b/b+ | ★★ Red cornus | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up
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7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Finally with morning cooler temps went on the second attempt. Its hard and maybe morpho for the shorter but i will stick with 7b+ hard, nearly 7c but not.
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7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Again bad timing too hot to send but did some good linking and figure out one hard clip. Its not that hard but its very conditions dependant with the slopper compression crux.
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7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 12th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wrong timing too hot to send, just remembering moves.
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Mon 12th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
6c 6b | ★★ 8 | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Did it directly with precliped the second bolt, boulder crux at the start with good monos 6c?.
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Wed 7th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Same highpoint, very bad hot conditions for compression moves and sloppers today. So nice moves though.
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7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First real attempt, i have done all the moves but haven't really linked the middle part (3 crux on top of each other). Highpoint one move before the foot off dyno.
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7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
6b 6a | ★★ apto dentro (6) | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did it without the tree, really nice slab with boulder prob at the start.
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Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6b+ 6b/b+ | ★★ Red cornus | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
When i did the first ascent i thought it was 6c but now i think its actually a solid 6b+
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7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had done almost all moves apart a linking of the middle part that contains a fridge. Thought i could bypass the fridge and avoid the compression moves on the overhang. But there is no way to avoid the fridge so after the first 7a you have a ledge and then a 6c/+ to a 6C compression boulder to a 7a till the end. Harder than what i thought but amazing compression moves 7b+/c??.
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7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 1st Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
★★ War crimes | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very bad hot conditions to try this hard slab, but i did some progress on the first crux. Hard wall climbing on minimal holds with terrible slopper-slippery feet...a total nightmare.
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Thu 1st Jul 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Boom peach | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Cleaned saw and did most of the moves. After the first anchor starts a 35/40 degree overhanging wall with compression moves and a fridge, that leads to a less overhanging wall with good holds. Amazing climbing.
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Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ 7a/a+ | ★★★ Flatlining | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a+ 7a/a+ | ★★★ Flatlining | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned and send, amazing power endurance start with very beautiful continuous bouldery moves. Easier than gritzeli but harder than the other 7as of the crag my suggestion 7a/+.
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Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Bubbles | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
He who says short routes suck haven't tried this short beauty. Amazing technical slab with sustained difficulty from the start till the end.
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Sun 6th Jun 2021 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
★★ War crimes | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A desperate vertical slab, needs good footwork and finger strength. 3 cruxes on top of each other, just saw a bit the first. Hard.
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6c 6b+/c | ★★★ Verbasco | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very beautiful vertical crimpy wall, still think it's a 6c.
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Thu 1st Oct 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b | ★★ Spoiled hawk | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Saw and almost did the crux, hard long dyno to a slopper 7c?.
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Thu 1st Oct 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Toxic waste | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Endurance training
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Tue 22nd Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Evamer | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeated this one today with better conditions than the first ascent to check the grade. For sure 7a+ and not 7a/+, hard transition from a bad slopper to a better hold and dyno. Harder for the short.
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Tue 22nd Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Toxic waste | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned and send,very nice route overhanging start and late crux.
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7a | ★★★ Toxic waste | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last
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Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Toxic waste (Waste land extension) | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cleaned and saw some moves.
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Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
6a | ★★★ 4 - with jim bean | 12m, 6 | |||||
Tue 15th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b | ★★ Spoiled hawk | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Saw and did most of the moves of the crux, realized that the 2 bolts at the crux are in the wrong places and need replacing. The crux seems hard but doable with a dyno to a big slopper .
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Tue 15th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Guva libre (Kuba libre) | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
7a | ★★★ Guva libre (Kuba libre) | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Cleaned it and send it, amazing modern day gym like slab climbing with very slim feet small holds balancy and dynamic moves. Hard.
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Thu 10th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ 7a+/b | ★★ Gritzeli | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7a+ 7a+/b | ★★ Gritzeli | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very hard to grade this route, a 6C font boulder problem till the 4 draw and after that a 6b/+ route. A bit harder than the other 7a+ of the crag but maybe too short to be a 7b so 7a+/b . Very bouldery start with minimal holds and lots of core tension but with nice moves.
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Tue 8th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+/b | ★★ Gritzeli | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cleaned and saw moves of the first 2 bolts. Very bouldery start with hard moves on small crimps and sloppy features (6C font), but after the 3 bolt eases up. Very hard to grade this one.
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Tue 8th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b | ★★ Spoiled hawk | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Saw cleaned and did the first part, now remains the crux. A bit chossy after the common start and 2 first bolts with aranciata but after that seems very nice.
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Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Aranciata | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Aranciata | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Aranciata | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
On the third attempt of the day, very beautiful route.
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Thu 3rd Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Aranciata | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned the whole route
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7b+ | ★★★ Aranciata | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Saw and did all the moves. Easier but with very nice moves first part 6c+/7a to a very good rest to a hard crux on small crimps and small feet (6C+ font). Really really nice route.
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Thu 3rd Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mpakaliaros | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 1st Sep 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mpakaliaros | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cleaned the whole route.
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7a+ | ★★ Mpakaliaros | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First attempt lost by misteake at the anchor. Hard boulder prob (font 6B+) start on veery small holds to a bad rest to a 6A+ prob to a better rest to a 6b+ route with cruxy ending. Hard route almost 7b.
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Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very tired after 3 days of climbing and bolting, but somehow managed. Very beautiful but hard.
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Sat 29th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mpakaliaros | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Saw and cleaned the first crux, hard crimping with good feet.
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Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wrong beta
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7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
New better beta did the crux but messed up at the anchor.
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7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Too tired to send, very beautiful moves on this very endurancy route somewhat sharp but sustained and hard.
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Tue 25th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned it all and gave one attempt. Very beautiful endurancy route with cruxy finale on sloppers and crimps.
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7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Front | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ 5 direct | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a | ★★★ Guva libre (Kuba libre) | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Saw only the beginning is doable even though seems desperate slab but not in this heat.
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Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a 6c | ★★★ Red cornus extension | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So enjoyable long route.
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Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mpakaliaros | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Saw only the first part cause the sun came in. Hard wall climbing on small crimps.
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7a+ | ★★★ Hedera helix | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Decided to clean this one. After the first 6c part of unfinished sympathy you continue direct. Just put 3 more draws, saw some moves but didn't have time to clean, seems doable though till there.
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Sat 22nd Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
6c 6b/b+ | ★★ Red cornus | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good overhang with a tricky crux.
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7a 6c | ★★★ Red cornus extension | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing sustained overhanging route with long moves on jugs.
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a | ★★★ 11 | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7c | ★★ perimenontas to giani (Unfinished sympathy) | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7c | ★★ perimenontas to giani (Unfinished sympathy) | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not a fan of naming first ascents that others bolted and left unnamed. But in this case this was a forgotten project with a story and since its such a beautiful natural line deserves a name. The name tells a lot about the story behind this project.
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Tue 18th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Aranciata | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Decided to see this one, while bolting it i thought it would be max 7a+. But i think its much harder with a crux involving 2 10mm crimps and Very bad feet.. Saw and did all the moves apart the crux, will have to wait for cooler temps for this one.
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Tue 18th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7c | ★★ perimenontas to giani (13) | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
New highpoint did the first crux and slipped at the hardest move of the second one, 3 moves before the jug. Amazing power endurance route solid 7c. First part 6c/+ to a no-hands rest to a 6B+ boulder prob to a bad rest to a 6C+ boulder prob to a jug and a 6A/+ boulder prob to get to the anchor ledge. Nextime.
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Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7c | ★★ perimenontas to giani (13) | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Saw and did the last wall climbing part. I was wrong this is the hardest crux of the route sloppy crimps bad feet and long moves. So 2 hard cruxes(6B+/C,6C+ font) back to back with a bad rest between and an endurancy beginning. In my book this is an power endurancy 7c. But will be sure after i send it. For now one thing is certain its a mega classic.
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Back | |||||||
7c | ★★ perimenontas to giani (13) | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lost it after the first part of the redpoint crux. After that did the redpoint crux now remains the last wall climbing part, that i need to clean and figure out. Endurancy so maybe 7b+, will see after the last part.
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6c | ★★★ Waste land | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Warm up
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Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Petra | |||||||
Petra Middle | |||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★★ Evamer | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a 7a+ | ★★★ Evamer | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another new addition, bolted last time and cleaned and send today. Bouldery crux on slopppers and big moves 7a hard or 7a+ soft very nice .
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