Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Northern Group Demetrius Rock | |||||
5a | ★★ Potato Ballet
FA: Richard Goedeke, Hans Weninger & J. Kühlmeyer, 1999 | 50m, 7 | |||
6a | ★★ Potato Beetle
FA: Falk Heinicke & C. Heinicke, 2002 | 45m, 7 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Northern Group Thumbstall | |||||
4a | Route of Musty
FA: Siegfried Weippert & U. Daigger, 1983 | 20m, 1 | |||
6a | ★★ Thumbelina
FA: Falk Heinicke & C. Heinicke, 2002 | 15m, 3 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Katerina
FA: C. Tzioufetas & V. Batsios, Jul 2014 | 15m, 4 | |||
5b+ | ★ North Wall
FA: Kostas Tsizogiannis & V. Tatsiramou, 1995 | 15m, 2 | |||
6a | ★★ Little Brother and little Sister
FA: Falk Heinicke, A. Riemer, C. Heinicke & X. Heinicke, 2002 | 15m, 3 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Northern Group Big Brother | |||||
1 | Normal Route
FA: 1983 | ||||
6a | ★ Brother Gang
FA: Udo Henke, 1991 | 20m, 2 | |||
5c | ★ Edge of the Slot
FA: Detlef Augustin, 1997 | 20m, 3 | |||
5c | ★ Pixel
FA: Vangelis Batsios & C. Tzioufetas, 2014 | 25m, 3 | |||
4c | ★ Barfoot Edge
FA: Siegfried Weippert & Udo Daigger, 1983 | 25m, 1 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Northern Group Back Meteora Wall | |||||
2 | Crossover Route
Left of "Mountain Route" 1 bolt to the top. | 1 | |||
4b | Southwest Route
FA: Sepp Eichinger & H. L. Stutte, 1977 | ||||
5a | Snake Line
1
5a
35m
2
4b
35m
3
4b
20m
15m left of "South Face". P1 35m 5a 4 bolts, P2 35m 4b 3 bolts, P3 20m 4b 1 bolt. Topoout original "South Face". FA: Heinz Lothar Stutte, H. Weigel & G. Schneider, 1991 | 90m, 3 | |||
5a | ★★★ Meteora Highway
Between "South Face" and "Snake Line" wall (10 bolts) to belay. Wall (7 bolts) to the top. Good new well cleaned line. FA: Burkhard Cerbe, Marcel Selent, L. Zybell & C. Poppitz, 19 Apr | 2 | |||
4b | South Face
FA: Dietrich Hasse & K. Lindner, 1977 | ||||
4c | ★★ South Face Direct
FA: Dimitris Boudolas & C. Delibaltas, 1982 | ||||
5c | Autumn Wind
1
5b
40m
2
5b
30m
3
5c
15m
Right of "South Face" rightwards then straight (4 bolts, 5b, 40m) to belay. Straight to 2nd belay (4 bolts, 5b, 30m). Further (1 bolt, 5c, 15m) to the top. FA: Manfred Vodel, H. Paul, D. Hasse & U. Hasse, 2000 | 85m, 3 | |||
6a | Walk The Line
1
5a
30m
2
6a
30m
3
5a
20m
10m right of "Autumn Wind". P1 6 bolts, P2 8 bolts, P3 4 bolts. FA: Panagiotis Meletis & T. Papagatsias, 2 Oct 2018 | 80m, 3 | |||
5a | New Valley Route
20m right of "South Face" to ledge and straight to belay (3 bolts, 45m). Straight und corner to the top (2 bolts, 35m). FA: Hans Weninger & S. Werderits, 1986 | 80m, 2 | |||
4b | New Valley Route Direct Start
Right of original start with 1 bolt... FA: Aris Mitronatsios & S. Nikologiannis, 1999 | ||||
5c | Meteora Wall Corner
Verschn., welche die Südwand rechts begrenzt. Vom Wandfuß seichten Verschneidungsriß an 2 H vorbei (V+), über Wand nach rechts (V-) zu H, gerade hinauf in Wand- oder Rißkletterei (VI) zu SU. Nach links u. Verschn. V+ empor zu Stand linkerhand. Verschn. weiter an H vorbei (V-), hinauf (IV) zu Stand. Verschneidungskamin (IV u. III) zu Abs. (Stand). Hoch zu Vorgipfel (II) u. Übergang zum Hauptgipfel. FA: Dietrich Hasse & G. Haider, 1991 | ||||
6a | Rohnspitzler Route
30m right of "Meteroa Wall Corner" crack (3 bolts) to belay in hole. Further to tree and wall (2 bolts) to the top. FA: Dirk Lehnert, Andreas Dürsch & Michael Eckert, 1994 | ||||
5b | Pillar of Silence
1
5a
2
5b
3
3b
At the right north arete (40m right of "Rohnspitzler Route"). P1 7 bolts, P2 10 bolts, P3 1 bolt. FA: Dionisis Stratigos & Panagiotis Meletis, 26 Nov 2017 | 3 | |||
5c | Queen of Silence
1
5a
20m
2
5c
30m
In P2 "Pillar of Silence" left... P1 7 bolts, P2 9 bolts. | 50m, 2 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group King Bolete | |||||
VI | ★ Northwest Route
V A1 or VI FA: Dietrich Hasse & H. L. Stutte, 1980 | ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group The Bell | |||||
{UIAA} 6- | Ostweg
| ||||
{UIAA} 4+ | Wandvariante
| ||||
5b | ★★ Chimes
FA: Heinz Lothar Stutte & D. Hasse, 1983 | 110m, 6 | |||
{UIAA} 7+ | ★★★ Allemannischer Schelledanz
1
6
35m
2
7-
30m
3
6-
20m
4
7+
15m
| 100m, 4, 29 | |||
{UIAA} 7+ | ★ Glockengeläut
FA: Matthias Mittasch, 1992 | ||||
{UIAA} 7+ A1 | ★★ Pfadfinder
| 3 | |||
{UIAA} 6 | Wem die Stunde schlägt
| ||||
{UIAA} 6+ | Böhmische Klingel
FA: Jaroslav Končak, 1986 | ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Kastraki Tower | |||||
6b | ★★★ Valley Route
The few existing sources say, it's an oldschool and hard to protect, crack/ chimney climb. FA: Dietrich Hasse & Heinz Lothar Stutte, 1980 | 4, 7 | |||
{UIAA} 5 | Pindoskante
1
5-
30m
2
5
25m
3
4+
40m
4
4
40m
5
4
25m
Set: Dietrich Hasse & Ursula Hasse, 1990 | 160m, 5, 15 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Bishops Cap | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Die Tyrannis des Theagenes
| ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Echo Rock | |||||
7a | ★★ Risky Dancer
FA: George Thomoglou & Alexander Sabidis, 1989 | 95m, 3, 27 | |||
6b+ | Pineios wall
Friends No. 0,5-3 FA: 1987 | 95m, 4, 17 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Batalogianni Rock | |||||
6a+ | ★ Childs Toy
FA: Heiko Fuchs & U. Walter, 1994 | 35m, 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Childs Toy Direct
FA: Vangelis Batsios & C. Tzioufetas, 2014 | 30m, 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Pan Toffel
FA: Olaf Jesiorski, D. Lehnert, U. Fretter & S. Brust, 1996 | 40m, 8 | |||
6a+ | ★ Pan
FA: Uwe Rößler & R. Scheidler, 1993 | 32m, 8 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Terminator
FA: Giannis Telis & Sotiris Foussias, 1997 | 45m, 13 | |||
5b+ | ★ Right East Face Gully
FA: Dietrich Hasse & G. Haider, 1986 | 40m, 5 | |||
7a | ★★★ Vyronas
FA: Christos Batalogiannis & V. Batsios, 1998 | 30m, 7 | |||
5a | Way of the Turtles
FA: H. Hempel & and friends, 1995 | 30m, 3 | |||
4c | ★ Northwest Ridge
FA: Dietrich Hsse & G. Haider, 1986 | 30m, 2 | |||
5c+ | ★★ Spring Air
Wall left of "West Route". FA: Vangelis Batsios, 4 Apr 2018 | 20m, 7 | |||
3 | West Route
Left in the west face step and groove (bush) to the top. FA: Bodo Zöpel & U. Weinreich, 1970 | ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Grail | |||||
{UIAA} 6 A1 | ★★★ Eiertanz
1
5
25m
2
6-
25m
3
5
40m
4
3
20m
5
6 A1
20m
Easily the most photogenic route in Meteora, due to the step-across move. P1, P2: 3/7 bolts. Can be linked together with 60m ropes. Slab climbing with a few steep sections. P3: Thin slab climbing then a chimney and a water groove, belay on a ledge to the right. 1 bolt, good cam placements. P4: Walk up to the first summit, beware of loose rock. Belay on top on the summit, not the rappel anchor on the wall. No bolts. P5: The icing of the cake. Down-climb to the fixed rope, use it to lean across and clip the bolt, than do the step-across. Traverse left then follow the crack and face to the top. 7 bolts, takes small cams. There's a rappel anchor across the summit plateau and a bit to the left. Two overhanging 45m rappels to the ground. Alternatively there's another to the right from which you can descent through "Spiralweg". | 130m, 5 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Dresdner Eierschecke
1
5c+
2
6a
3
6a+
4
6a+
You need double ropes A couple of medium sized cams could come in handy for the final pitch that might feel a bit run out. The crack is easier than it looks. Exposed Take care for the descent The rap station is the left hand one, climbers left, as you top out, So you end up closer to the start of the route. And you need 2 ropes, the second rap is 45m+ And people have gotten stack with an 80m rope. There I a typographic mistake in the newest guidebook about the length of the rappel. | 4 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Boy Vulture | |||||
1 | Mountain Route
Left in the west side to the top. | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Arachnophobie
In the valley side corner and right wall (6 bolts) to the top. FA: Telis Giannis & S. Fusias, 1997 | 20m, 8 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Arachnophobie Direct
Start right of "Arachnophobie". FA: Christo Batalogiannis & V. Batsios, 1 Feb 2016 | 20m, 8 | |||
UIAA:3 | West Route
Right in the west side sloped wall, passing a ledge, to the top. | ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Vultures Wall | |||||
4c | Northwest Corner
FA: Dietrich Hasse & H. L. Stutte, 1976 | ||||
7a+ | Thousand Devils Dance
Wall right of "Northwest Corner" (15 bolts) to arete and to the top. FA: Jörg Sommer & A. Weigert, 1996 | 15 | |||
5c | ★★★ West Ridge
FA: Dietrich Hasse & S. König, 1984 | 140m, 5, 12 | |||
5c | Dr. Brösel
Pillar left of "West Ridge" (6 bolts) to the end of the crack and "West Ridge" to the top. FA: Jörg Sommer & A. Weigert, 1996 | ||||
6a+ | Long Variant
Left in the valley face corner crack and wall (6 bolts, 60m). At ledge traverse left to 2nd belay of "West Ridge". FA: David Semiginovsky & S. Silhan, 1987 | ||||
6a+ | Uplift
FA: Andreas Hausotter, Hans Weninger & B. Wischhöfer, 1984 | ||||
6c | Direct Uplift
1
6c
40m
2
6c
35m
Right of "Uplift" direct over the ridge (2 pitches, 6c 40m 12 bolts and 6c 35m 9 bolts) to "Uplift". FA: Vangelis Batsios, C. Tsourvakas, K. Dolis & G. Vaiouzozos, 2004 | 75m, 2 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Organpipe Wall | |||||
{UIAA} 8- A0 | Toccata une Fuge Direkt
| ||||
{UIAA} 7 | Regenbogen
| 210m, 5, 14 | |||
{UIAA} 7 | Aprilschmerz
| ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Cloud Wall | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | Schwarzer Kater, weiße Katze
| 210m, 6 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Devils Tower | |||||
4a | Northwest Route
| 4 | |||
{UIAA} 7- | ★★ Dr. Faust
| 150m, 5, 19 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Valley Arete
Easy to confuse with route Dr Faust, since there are bolts in route that are not in guide book. Route is mostly sport climbing with good protection on harder pitches and longer runouts on easier parts. FA: R.Velisek & J.Janas, 1986 | 150m, 4 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Ypsilotera Rock | |||||
5b | ★★★ West Arete
| 5 | |||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★★ Westkante Direkt
| 2 | |||
6a | ★★ Himmelsleiter
1
6a
35m
2
5c
40m
3
4b
40m
A popular direct line on excellent rock. The line of three rappels goes almost down the route Butterfly and you will see new bolts all the way down. P1 6 bolts, P2 3 bolts, P3 2 bolts. FA: H. L. Stutte & O. Sched, 1982 | 120m, 3 | |||
{UIAA} 7- | ★★ Danae
1
7-
30m
2
5+
40m
3
5
30m
4
3
35m
1st pitch 8 bolts, 2nd 9 bolts, 3rd 6 bolts, 4th 2 bolts Set: A.Theodoropoulos & D. Karalis, 1997 | 140m, 4, 25 | |||
{UIAA} 5- | ★★ Apollofalter
FA: Udo Daigger & Helmut Daigger, 1981 | ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Dragon Cave | |||||
6c+ | Etsi ki Allios
| 10m, 4 | |||
7b/b+ | ★★ I can't make you love me
| 8m, 4 | |||
7b/b+ | ★★★ Dragon Fighter
| 10m, 5 | |||
8a+ | ★★★ Diagonian Devil
| 10m, 6 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Moni Rock | |||||
{UIAA} 6+ | Wahlfahrt
| ||||
{UIAA} 5- | Talweg
| 30m, 3 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group St. Barbara Tower | |||||
{UIAA} 5- A0 | East Arete
| 5 | |||
{UIAA} 8- | Restive Domestication
| ||||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Mushroom | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Overhang
| 10m, 3 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Sphere | |||||
4b | St. Babara Route
| 10m, 2 | |||
5c+ | Rockabilly
| 10m, 4 | |||
7c+ | Dyno Warrior
| 10m, 4 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Cat's Church | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Saxon Triplet
In middle south face crack groove and wall to little overhang (bolt). Left Crach groove to overhang (bolt). Overhang 82 bolts, crux) and crack leftwards to west arete (3 bolts) and to the top. The main line. First bolt is VERY high. FA: Michael Eckert, Dirk Lehnert & T. Eckert, 1991 | 40m, 7 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Stone Mule | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Western Face
Up the crack then right and up. FA: Balamotis Phanasis, P. Giorgos & N. Apostolis, 1987 | 35m, 3 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Rock of Rousanou | |||||
Performer
| 12m | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Mystique
| 12m, 5 | |||
5a | Sandal
| 10m, 2 | |||
Roof on Fire
| 6m, 4 | ||||
7b | ★★★ Super Paradise
| 12m, 5 | |||
7b/b+ | ★★★ Final Decision
| 10m, 5 | |||
5a | ★ Pontix
| 7m, 2 | |||
Upper Pinios Valley Meteora Western Group Tower of Cedars | |||||
4b | ★★ Northeast Ridge
FA: H. Magdefrau, D. Hasse & H. L. Stutte, 1977 | 15m, 2 | |||
6c | ★★★ Geraki
FA: 2016 | 15m, 6 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ From the Cold
FA: Falk Heinicke & A. Riemer, 2001 | 15m, 4 |