Routes in Upper Pinios Valley for selected grade

Left in the valley face corner crack and wall (6 bolts, 60m). At ledge traverse left to 2nd belay of "West Ridge".

Easy to confuse with route Dr Faust, since there are bolts in route that are not in guide book. Route is mostly sport climbing with good protection on harder pitches and longer runouts on easier parts.

1st pitch 8 bolts, 2nd 9 bolts, 3rd 6 bolts, 4th 2 bolts

In middle south face crack groove and wall to little overhang (bolt). Left Crach groove to overhang (bolt). Overhang 82 bolts, crux) and crack leftwards to west arete (3 bolts) and to the top.

The main line. First bolt is VERY high.

A wonderful route that follows a water groove up the east face of the Holy Ghost Guardian. Its groove and overhangs provide for some really nice if not surreal climbing on protruding cobblestones that seem eager to pop-out but (usually) they don't! Bolted to almost modern sport-climbing standards.

Four pitches of right facing corner system, followed by two pitches of a black water runnel to the summit of Holy Ghost. A brilliant outing.

While a trad route, there is fairly consistently a bolt every 6 to 8 metres, and somewhat closer on the 35 metres pitch 4 where the crack is wide.

Confident climbers will therefore be able to climb the route with a set of wires, and a set of cams up to BD3. More gear will obviously increase confidence further.

The belays are not clear on the route being typically only a single bolt, with trad gear to supplement. So just climb until you get pumped or run out of gear, then find a position you like.

Expect to do lots of laybacking. The nature of the crack system doesn't suit jamming.

https://felix-baehr.de/meteora-14-viel-sonne-klettern-und-eine-erstbegehung/

Von NW Wandfuß (bei Block) Wand (13BH) und linkshaltend zu großem Loch (Stand, 50m). Linkshaltend und Wasserstreifen (4BH) zu Rinne (Stand, 25m). Kaminartige Rinne (2BH, Stand, 30m). Wand (3BH) und Rinnenfolge (2BH) zu Stand (25m). Tiefe Rinne (3BH) und Wand rechts von dieser (2BH) zu Band (Stand, 35m). Wand gerade (3BH) zu Gipfel (BH, 15m).

Left of "Via Scorpion" directly to the belay of "Silken Thread" (10 bolts). Arete (4 bolts) to the top.

6a+/6b

6a+

Bouldery

Steep climb and tricky crux.

Short bouldery route.

A slab with long moves on good holds.