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Vikos Gorge Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

jim bean Rene Ollino krsmls Dimsim Tsoumanis evangelos Franz König Panos Mark Walbran Roel Schalekamp

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Vikos Gorge 57 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
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A
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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.865790, 20.771123

description

The start of the vikos Gorge a very beautiful natural monument, with lots of trails to walk or run . Vikos Gorge also holds some very beautiful small crags with multipitch and sport climbing and even some bouldering. Climbing on the characteristic limestone mixed with flintstone offers mostly crimps and sloppers with endurancy longer routes or bouldery smaller routes.

1.1. Misiou bridge area 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.868558, 20.765349

description

The crags near the misiou bridge, for this area is better to park at (39,8688733, 20,7676034) and take the trail (skala koukouliou) towards the bridge. All the multipitch routes finish at the end of the cliff and is possible to arrive via trails (in some cases vegetated but visible) to the road and parking. Specially for the longer multipitch routes is better to avoid rappelling and take the trail, so pack your stuff beforehand and take everything with you.

1.1.1. Tower of Misiou 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.867641, 20.764461

description

The first tower seen from the trail some 20 meters before the bridge of misiou. In the shade till 14 00 offers 3 double-pitch well bolted routes on grey and red limestone with flintstone.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 mikrokosmos

6b+/5a

6b+ Sport 70m, 2
2 i xionati & oi 8 varvatoi

6b+/7a+

7a+ Sport 70m, 2
3 filandiko monopati

6a/6a+

6a+ Sport 65m, 2

1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.869095, 20.765151

description

The second big tower seen in the trail some 10 meters before the misiou bridge. Take the visible side trail to approach the base of the tower that withholds a cave like formation that host's the majority of the routes. The cave stays in the shade all day and the routes stay dry during raining.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 tyrrania tou xasmatos

Warning Fixed Gear: 5th pitch has too few bolts and loose rock

6b Sport 120m, 5
2 sunny boy 6a Sport 28m, 8
3 keep walking 7b Sport 28m, 12
4 skilo mayro 7a+ Sport 28m, 11
5 to oneiro tou skylou 7a+ Sport 28m, 11
6 tsigganos 7a+ Sport 28m, 14
7 giftouli 7a Sport 28m, 13
8 zagorisios paradeisos

6c/6b/6a+/6a

6c Sport 140m, 4
9 travagia 6b Sport 20m, 6
10 Travagia extension

100m rope or 80m rope and u untie at the first anchor.

7b Sport 45m, 17
11 paliatsos 6c Sport 20m, 6
12 paliatsos ext. 7b Sport 40m, 15
13 gautso kotso

6a+/6b/6c

6c Trad 75m
14 gentleman 6b+ Sport 20m, 8

1.1.3. Tower of Friendship 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.869482, 20.765052

description

The big tower just above the bridge of misiou.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 takis o skliros 6c+ Sport 5

1.2. kokori bridge area 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.865152, 20.772356

description

This area contains all the crags located near the kokori bridge. For these crags is better to park at the kokori bridge where the trails start.

1.2.1. Tower of Gatos 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.862468, 20.777489

description

The tower of gatos offers 2 fully bolted multipitch routes and amazing view of vikos from the top. Is better to start early in the morning to avoid the sun that comes at 12 00 in the summer or climb in the winter. The trail (15min) starts from the kokori bridge and continues in the river for a bit until u reach the base of the tower. Before climbing check with the local climbing community for the state of the bolts, at the time of writing not good (2021).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Appo 6a Sport 75m, 2
2 katharoi pia

Warning Fixed Gear: RAPPEL ! !

VI-,VII,VII+,V-,VI-.

{UIAA} 7+ Sport 95m, 5

1.2.2. Tower of Kokori 9 routes in Sector

Access:

This site is one of the most visited touristic attractions of vikos with many people visiting in high season (may to September). Since the routes haven't got much traffic small flakes may break. Respect that this is a place for everyone and avoid climbing in high season.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.862514, 20.775327

description

One of the most iconic towers of vikos, the tower of kokoris offers endurancy climbing on sloppers and crimps on red or grey limestone mixed with flintstone. Most routes can be done as single or multi pitch. The rock stays in the sun till 16 00 so its perfect for winter climbing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 theofilos xatzisirlis

pitch 1 sport

7a+ Trad 90m, 3
2 glikia autapati

7a+/6b

7a+ Sport 60m, 2
3 kainourgia zali

7a+/6b/5c

7a+ Sport 90m, 3
4 vima tou spourgita direct 7b+ Sport 30m
5 vima tou spourgita 6c Trad 110m
6 xomatini koukla 7a Sport 22m, 8
7 kokini ammos 7b Sport 22m, 7
8 1 6b+ Sport 20m
9 ariadni 6b Trad 110m

1.2.3. Minimal Tower 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.866153, 20.773811

description

limestone mixed with flint tower bolted 2019

approach

From the bridge of Kokori take the path towards the bridge of Misiou. It is the first tower you meet as soon as the forest begins next to the trail.

history

Bolted by the cooperative of Kaster Team Ioannina

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 i hate models 7a Sport 12m, 4
2 plastikman 7a Sport 15m, 5
3 stone in focus 6a+ Sport 15m, 5

1.2.4. Viken-Jura 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.866961, 20.772386

description

Limestone bouldering similar to Frankenjura

approach

Park at Kokori bridge and take the trail towards Misiou bridge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 arkoudovato

start from the lowest big holds

{FB} 5C Boulder
2 i koufia

start with both hands on the crack and move leftwards and then direct at the exit

{FB} 6B/B+ Boulder
3 i koufia direct

same start as n2 but move rightwards after the first move .

{FB} 6B+/C Boulder
4 proj BoulderProject
5 la compression BoulderProject

1.2.5. Tower of Mykitas 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.867399, 20.767164

description

Limestone mixed with flint tower, bolted 2019

approach

From the bridge of Kokori take the path towards the bridge of Misiou. At almost half way you will see the tower next to the trail.

history

Bolted by the cooperative of Kaster Team Ioannina

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 aspondilos skilos 6a+ Sport 18m, 7
2 therinoi erote 6a Sport 18m, 7
3 sto gamo toy feidia 6a Sport 20m, 9
4 aliteus 5c Sport
5 Psixanagkasma 6b Sport 14m, 4
6 Luciano 5c Sport 14m, 4

1.2.6. Kaster Tower 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.867393, 20.767154

description

Limestone mixed with flint tower

approach

From the bridge of Kokori take the path towards the bridge of Misiou. At almost half way you will see the tower next to the trail.

history

Bolted by the cooperative of Kaster Team Ioannina

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dieuro 5a+ Sport 14m, 5
2 b.bank 6c Sport 20m, 8
3 maura matia 6c+ Sport 20m, 8

1.2.7. Tower of Summer 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.866407, 20.770169

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 tropiko moro

some bolts are in bad condition

6c Sport 2

1.2.8. Tower Bay 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.867368, 20.766715

description

Limestone mixed with flint tower

approach

From the bridge of Kokori take the path towards the bridge of Misiou. 15 meters after you pass towers Kaster and Mykitas you will find rock signs to go right and up a small trail of a few meters to the tower.

history

Bolted by the cooperative of Kaster Team Ioannina

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 kasterbay 6a+ Sport 15m, 6
2 xaramadabay 6b+ Sport 18m, 8

1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.867368, 20.766702

description

Limestone mixed with flint tower

approach

From the bridge of Kokori take the path towards the bridge of Misiou. 15 meters after you pass towers Kaster and Mykitas you will find rock signs to go right and up a small trail of a few meters to the tower.

history

Bolted by the cooperative of Kaster Team Ioannina

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 taratsa

small boulder with rope 6A Fb

6b Sport 10m, 3
2 skepi

small boulder with rope 6B/+ Fb

6c+ Sport 10m, 3
3 savage 6b/b+ Sport 10m, 4
4 vapori 6b+/c Sport 12m, 5
5 kontos diaolos 7a Sport 12m, 5
6 trana tsarouxia 6a+ Sport 10m, 4
7 too short to bolt 6b/b+ Sport 8m, 3
8 all to bolt 5b+ Sport 10m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5a+ Dieuro Sport 14m, 5 1.2.6. Kaster Tower
5b+ all to bolt Sport 10m, 4 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
5c Luciano Sport 14m, 4 1.2.5. Tower of Mykitas
aliteus Sport 1.2.5. Tower of Mykitas
6a sunny boy Sport 28m, 8 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
Appo Sport 75m, 2 1.2.1. Tower of Gatos
sto gamo toy feidia Sport 20m, 9 1.2.5. Tower of Mykitas
therinoi erote Sport 18m, 7 1.2.5. Tower of Mykitas
6a+ filandiko monopati Sport 65m, 2 1.1.1. Tower of Misiou
stone in focus Sport 15m, 5 1.2.3. Minimal Tower
aspondilos skilos Sport 18m, 7 1.2.5. Tower of Mykitas
kasterbay Sport 15m, 6 1.2.8. Tower Bay
trana tsarouxia Sport 10m, 4 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
6b travagia Sport 20m, 6 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
tyrrania tou xasmatos Sport 120m, 5 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
ariadni Trad 110m 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
Psixanagkasma Sport 14m, 4 1.2.5. Tower of Mykitas
taratsa Sport 10m, 3 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
6b/b+ savage Sport 10m, 4 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
too short to bolt Sport 8m, 3 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
6b+ mikrokosmos Sport 70m, 2 1.1.1. Tower of Misiou
gentleman Sport 20m, 8 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
1 Sport 20m 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
xaramadabay Sport 18m, 8 1.2.8. Tower Bay
5C arkoudovato Boulder 1.2.4. Viken-Jura
7+ katharoi pia Sport 95m, 5 1.2.1. Tower of Gatos
6b+/c vapori Sport 12m, 5 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
6c gautso kotso Trad 75m 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
paliatsos Sport 20m, 6 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
zagorisios paradeisos Sport 140m, 4 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
vima tou spourgita Trad 110m 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
b.bank Sport 20m, 8 1.2.6. Kaster Tower
tropiko moro Sport 2 1.2.7. Tower of Summer
6c+ takis o skliros Sport 5 1.1.3. Tower of Friendship
maura matia Sport 20m, 8 1.2.6. Kaster Tower
skepi Sport 10m, 3 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
7a giftouli Sport 28m, 13 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
xomatini koukla Sport 22m, 8 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
i hate models Sport 12m, 4 1.2.3. Minimal Tower
plastikman Sport 15m, 5 1.2.3. Minimal Tower
kontos diaolos Sport 12m, 5 1.2.9. Tower of Skoupi
6B/B+ i koufia Boulder 1.2.4. Viken-Jura
7a+ i xionati & oi 8 varvatoi Sport 70m, 2 1.1.1. Tower of Misiou
skilo mayro Sport 28m, 11 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
to oneiro tou skylou Sport 28m, 11 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
tsigganos Sport 28m, 14 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
glikia autapati Sport 60m, 2 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
kainourgia zali Sport 90m, 3 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
theofilos xatzisirlis Trad 90m, 3 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
6B+/C i koufia direct Boulder 1.2.4. Viken-Jura
7b Travagia extension Sport 45m, 17 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
keep walking Sport 28m, 12 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
paliatsos ext. Sport 40m, 15 1.1.2. Tower of the Spirits
kokini ammos Sport 22m, 7 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
7b+ vima tou spourgita direct Sport 30m 1.2.2. Tower of Kokori
? la compression BoulderProject 1.2.4. Viken-Jura
proj BoulderProject 1.2.4. Viken-Jura
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