V6 boulder problem with multiple solutions into an absolute ass-blaster 5.12a roof. This climb suited me VERY well so I’ve spent days debating the grade…and I also already knew the ending beta (including a lot of kneebar rests) from working Cicala so that part didn’t feel as hard already sort of knowing the moves and just dialing them in on the first burn.
I’m very tempted to downgrade this since I sent 2nd try and this is my current project/redpoint grade but given the mixture of disciplines required for this route I don’t know what to think…I’m getting some major imposter syndrome here. I just don’t have enough 7+ sends under me to know the line very well between 7b+ and 7c.
2nd session, 3 RP tries total, 2nd day on. With efficient movement this felt like one long V6 boulder problem. Without good beta or strong bouldering technique this is a muuuuch harder climb.
I did a dead-point throw from underneath the roof to the leftmost jug above, instead of the 180 toehook beta Petar Chalamov used.
Hard to judge the grade on this one because it went from feeling superhard to super chill in 3 goes, with extensive bolt-to-bolt trial and error on the first two attempts.
Also I did the R finish onto Ronin’s anchors, as the grade doesn’t change (I agree w/ the book here) and I had already done the left finish when I sent Chilean Monster. The right finish was more continuous and pumpy whereas the left finish has a goodrest after the roof pull before a final move to the top.
Man, I’m 6’4” and this crux was spanny for ME. I kept a low left foot for tension throwing to the furthest left sloper jug. This move felt hard for 7a+, but it’s kind of a one-move wonder with a few 7a moves before and after. Probably more like 7b for shorties.
