Ascents in Palionisos by peta barrett

There’s too many lines here. There was plenty of unnecessary sending Tourette’s…..

Crumbly. Didn’t start the day well for my headspace

First shot to get the draws on and change my anchor sequence. I think it’ll work better.

Yess! New beta worked a treat and it’s still early enough to get Scott on his project!!

Getting the draws on. Best conditions so far.

Fell off going for the last hold before the jug. So so pumped!!!!!

Got the last hold and my knee was inches away from the knee bar.... and then it would have been done... alas, just slipped off as I was putting my knee in. So close! Today was a good mental training day at least. I actually tried hard both times (I usually don’t try hard enough) and my send anxiety actually calmed down. Took some nice whippers today with no fear for my back.. or fear of falling. I felt good. I didn’t send but for me, I think I’m pretty happy at how my trip has ended. In The beginning I still had lower back issues and I hadn’t climbed hard for two years. There’s still 4 days and if the predicted rains don’t come... maybe another chance???

Pumpy. Glad the draws were on.

Putting the draws up. Bit spoogy today.

Got to a high point... but just couldn’t hold the pinch. Right hand wouldn’t engage. Went to anchors bolt to bolt.

Gah!!! Mega high point and I either wigged out or didn’t push hard enough. Got to high reach at penultimate draw and just didn’t have the height... so instead of trying harder, I down climbed and took. Back on it and clean to anchors. I really need to try harder!!

Pitiful. Done at this stage but could still go bolt to bolt.

Getting the draws up. Felt terrible (no sleep) and the pockets were spoogy.

Chickening out I know.. but I took the brush up. I think it made a difference

Major head issues .. happens when you decide to clip off a mono pocket although that was actually ok. Head space was at penultimate draw...just kept getting wigged out so spent the time on lots of falls.

And then I’m out of time, sun coming over. Training lap. Got to highest point even though I had to fight for it.

Follow the hidden chipped holds....

Sharp!

Warm up. Didn’t need to touch the block.

Warm down. Was pretty done by this stage.

First thoughts on this were omfg this is too hard. And ... ouch!

But then it started to come together.

Even worked out where to clip most of them and got a clean high point

Getting tired now but from my first thought of this is never going to happen, it’s looking more possible than Kostas for me. Just endurance now!

good warm up

sharp and punchy

hard

First shot was appalling. I think Scott just hauled me up it. Second shot was better but I can't see me ever ticking this. Brutal and sharp!!

Bruce and Mel

Bruce, Mel and Shayne

With Shayne

Bruce, Mel and Shayne

this wont be a project...ouchy ouchy oucy....

Conditions were pretty crap but finally got here rested! first shot after getting the draws on felt the best but missed the deadpoint to the crimp.

Third shot, in my mind I thought if I get that crimp, I only have to do 2 more moves and I know I can do the rest. Reality was, not having put an extension draw on, I nearly came off on the 'jug'. Scott was getting ready to run! But, being that's the first time I got that far clean, I knew I didn't have it in me to do it again. And its been long enough already! Nearly came off in 2 more places (there may have been some swearing) but determination (and maybe coffee beans) got me through! Yaay!!!

High point. Got through the crux and fell on last crimp before the good holds. Last shot of day fell going for said crimp. Got on below crux and clean to top. Oh well. Now for those rest days with all that supposed rain!!

Better than anticipated however, I really need a few rest days. Feeling the fatigued.

Just didn't trust the little tired fingers on the crimp. No juice. Pretty easy second time.

So close. One hold too small for tired hands. Got the beta quickly though regardless.

3 shots. First and second were terrible but third definitely had progress. Can finally do the crux clip and changed a problematic footer for something dodgier but works much better. Conditions were still bad. That breeze stayed on the wrong side of the mountain.

No breeze. Too hot and slippery. I give up.

Warm up. Repeat. 2 laps

Still no send but the second shot was the best so far... All on 4 hours sleep. It's all training I guess. (4)

(4)

More like a 7b starting razor holds then a dangerous finish with loose blocks!! Not kaly style at all. Stay away!!

Super hard and sharp. Bouldery. (2)

Hard start, maybe 6a, then super easy and boring slab

for a one star route I thought this was pretty good!

The magic tufa seat is now dead...