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Sikati Cave Mostly Sport climbing 38 routes in sector

38
FR
4a4b+5a5b+6a6b6c7a7b7c8a8b8c

Seasonality

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Description

Sikati Cave is a wild, massive hole in the ground which looks like it’s been created by a giant meteorite impact. Climbers call it Sikati, but the locals call it Alatsia. Sikati is an enormous cave with no roof, a diameter of 50-60m, and a depth of 70m at parts. Its surrounding walls are full of tufas and stalactites. Inside Sikati Cave the steep, overhanging limestone is “out of this world” with enormously long routes up the walls, and ‘trade-mark’ Kalymnian 3D climbing.

Approach

A 2km hike from here [37.0503, 26.9520]. It's also possible to hire a boat to Sikati beach. Detailed approach notes in the local guidebook. Alternatively you can scout the path on google maps - the path is quite obvious from above.

The access to the sector itself can be done via rap-in bolts or via a fixed rope (replaced in 2018 after the old rope was in dangerous condition).

Ethic inherited from Kalymnos

  • PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
  • Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
  • Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
  • Use established paths and close gates behind you.
  • Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Entrance Area Back to contents

2
6b ★★ BMW Sport 15m

Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005

3
5c B69 Sport 15m

Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005

4
4a ★ Exit Sport 18m

The entrance and exit to 'Sikati Cave', equipped with a fixed rope.

Set: 2005

5
6b ★★ Balaklava Sport 22m, 10

Set: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020

6
6c+ Way of the Samurai Sport 25m, 12

Set: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020

7
6c Way of the Scythian Sport 24m, 10

Set: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020

8
5c+ Abrazis Sport 20m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

9
5c ★★★ Adini Trad 25m

Can be top-roped from the 'Abrazis' anchor.

Set: 2004

10
6c+ ★ Abrazos Sport 20m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

Jaws Area Back to contents

12
6b+ ★ El Choco Loco Sport 20m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

13
6c+ ★★ El Chupodromo Sport 25m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

14
7a+ ★★ Les Pirates de Sikati Sport 30m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

15
8a ★★★ Les Pirates de Sikati Plus Sport 45m

Left extension to 'Les Pirates de Sikati'.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

16
7c ★★★ Les Dents de la Mer Sport 40m

Right extension to 'Les Pirates de Sikati'.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

17
8b+ ★★★ Les Dents de la Mer (Jaws Linkup) Sport 55m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

18
8c ★★★ Jaws Sport 50m

Men's "ultimate route" during the PETZL Roctrip 2006.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

NA: Adam Ondra, 2009

19
7a+ ★★★ Mort aux Chèvres Sport 30m

An impressive, rightward leaning line of tufas with a crux sequence on small holds. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

20
8a+ ★★★ Mort aux Chèvres Ext Sport 60m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

Lolita Area Back to contents

22
7b+ ★★★ Morgan Sport 25m

Warning Fixed Gear: Potentially bad gear.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

23
7c ★★★ Adam Sport 32m

Extension to 'Morgan'.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

24
8a ★★★ Morgan Adam est une Andalouse Sport 75m

Second extension to 'Morgan' and 'Adam'.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

25
7c+ ★★★ Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Sport 30m

Warning Fixed Gear: Crux bolt spinning

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

26
8b ★★★ Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 1 Sport 60m

Women's "ultimate route" during the PETZL Roctrip 2006.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

27
8b+ ★★★ Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 2 Sport 80m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

28
8b ★★★ Les Arts du Vide Sport 40m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

29
7a ★★★ Lolita Sport 25m

Probably not your first 7a. A stiff intro, some intimidating moves on mushrooms and a bouldery crux higher up. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

30
7c+ ★★★ Super Lolita Sport 45m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

Armata Area Back to contents

32
7c ★★ Kalyrock.com Sport 70m, 3
1 7a 26m
2 7b+ 22m
3 7c 22m

Set: 2006

33
7c+ ★★★ Little Bulbos Sport 33m

Warning Fixed Gear: Crux bolt nut loose

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

34
7b ★★★ Armata Sikati Sport 35m

Warning Fixed Gear: 2nd bolt without hanger and rusty.

Continuously interesting climbing on picture-perfect Kaly-style rock. Good rests and a crux on tufa pipes.

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

35
7b+ ★★★ Armata Sikati Ext Sport 50m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

36
7c ★★★ Laurent... y a Quelqu'un Sport 38m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

37
7b ★★★ Où est l'Équipe Sport 25m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

38
7a+ ★★ No time for safety Sport 30m, 14

Awesome route on cool tufas with a pumpy finish. Sure to be a classic!

FA: Dave Lane, 14 Apr

39
6c ★★ Dropzone Sport 25m

A technical intro, some nice tufas and a crucial hidden hold.

Set: Marcel Dettling & S Raab, 2012

40
6a+ ★★ Happy Boyfriend Sport 20m

Warning Fixed Gear: Anchor heavily corroded

Set: Marcel Dettling & S Raab, 2012

41
7b+ ★★ Body Buldeuse Sport 20m

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

42
7a+ ★ Kontrato Sport 20m

Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Kalymnos Sport Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussou

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9788898495207

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the rock climbing, and sport climbing at Kalymnos, covering over 4,200 routes ranging from F3a to F9a.

Buy
ⓘ
Kalymnos Rockfax Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Chris Craggs

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781873341384

A selective guidebook from Rockfax covering the rock climbing and sport climbing on the Aegean island of Kalymnos, describing over 2,800 routes.

Buy
ⓘ

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7a ★★★ Lolita
7a+ ★★★ Mort aux Chèvres
7b ★★★ Armata Sikati
7b+ ★★★ Morgan
7c ★★★ Laurent... y a Quelqu'un

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Chris Hailey on ★ Kontrato 7a+ - Needs more traffic!!!

Chris Hailey on ★★★ Lolita 7a - Four Dimensions!!!

Sikati Cave

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Wed 17 May
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