Ascents in The Beach

The last trad section is some hard pulling and jamming.

what a battle. felt like trad climbing

The boltplate at the crux is missing....

Couldn't figure out the first boulder. Hard!

new route, impressive overhanging crack system, psicho test ! very happy for this OS putting up QDs

Punted at the chains (yet again).

To me, the route is 22ish right up till the end and then the crack kicks into an almost horizontal off-width/stemming problem. Felt on par with some 24/25 (7a+/7b) roof cracks I’ve done in Aus.

Who knows, grades are all just made up anyway! 🤷‍♂️

PS: One of the crux bolts needs a hanger but you can easily skip it. Just a heads up.

For me, this was one of the best routes I’ve ever climbed in my life! Amazing rock, awesome moves on pockets of different sizes (including some classy cranks on mono’s). I onsighted to the last bolt, and was woefully misled by a recent tickmark of someone’s spastic beta. I pulled straight back on and went to the chain. Doesn’t even matter, I was grinning from ear to ear.

Such a beautiful line on orange rock! Made it to the crux in the top part leading it, then got it clean on top rope after figuring out the moves: three crimps after second last draw, i get the first with my right while having the heel in left, go up and take the second crimp with my left on shoulder, then put up the right foot to go up wih my right hand to the third and best crimp, now placing the right foot in the big pocket right of the last draw, bumping up with the left hand into a tufa sidepull just 20cm up left of the third crimp, it gets good as soon as i position my body weight to the right by getting my feet up left, now big move with the right to the jug left of the next draw, double to clip. Will do it redpoint leading next time!

Second go after realising I needed to dyno the crux D:

Super psyched to get my first 7b. I loved the sequence through the top crux, nice technical climbing. For me the hardest part was getting off the ground.

Sweet climb love it.

Sweet climb love it. Fantastic movement on great rock

Cool

Let go of the two finger pocket in the upper crux in flash attempt. Neat boulder up there but everything else was pretty awkward and slippery. Big holds, hidden holds, reachy. Expected a better climb because everyone seems to love this.

Pretty tough for the Grade. Beautiful route, beautiful place. Some boulders, some rest points.

Wanted to on-sight this one. My intended beta on the last hard move didnt work out as expected. 2nd go.

Felt easy

Wunderschöne Kletterei

Wunderschöne Kletterei

What a nice route! Pumpy end !

Nice variety of climbing on this. Hard getting off the ground and a tricky Redpoint crux at the end

Damn almost on insight but technically punted off the first moves off the ground once, so redpoint it is. This line is soooo good. Very aesthetic. Very flowy and wonderful movement (if you don't follow the unnecessarily chalked up holds which suck you the wrong way). Three cruxy sequences. Moves may feel a little move dynamic if short but nothing on this climb is height-dependent or changes the grade.

Great climbing up to the tufa...followed by a V4 boulder crux.......sharp and super powerful to the end. Solid for the grade. No one gets away without blood flowing.

A really cool route - easy entry Boulder followed by a technical slab with small but nice stuff, then the crux going from the tufa to the next hold (reachy move if you are 1,68m) and then going up a side pull and crimp on top made this a great project. Red-pointed it on third go