Routes as trad in Iceland

A1 Með fullri reisn

Up crack on left, being wary of loose rock. 2 fixed hangers at top to belay from. Descend by walking off to climber's right. Would be pretty classic if it weren't for the moss and loose rock.

some pictures & story:

https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/News/2017-3-1/Iceland--climbing-in-a-land-of-contrasts#.WNKoHxLhBE4?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=Petzl-page&utm_campaign=Climbing&utm_content=IcelandEN

If the crack is only climbed the route becomes 5.7

Crack to the right followed to the top

The route name being a reference to a somewhat more impressive FA https://www.nps.gov/deto/learn/historyculture/firsttechnicalclimb.htm

I realise it's highly unlikely that this is actually the FA of this route. Please update if you know more.

1. 30m (5.8)

2. 25m (5.10d)

3. 23m (5.9)

4. 23m

1. 30m (5.9)

2. 10m (5.10b)

3. 30m (5.10a)

4. 30m (5.10a)

https://www.klifur.is/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Nemesis.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v49RVZ7vtpA

The fingers to hands to squeeze chimney crack on the north side of the beach around the corner from the scramble. If you stay left at the beginning it might be closer to 10+ but you can ditch the finger locks/smearing and make an easy move out right into a 4" crack early on to keep the grade low. The chimney gets progressively easier till the top when you worm through the scratchy grabby cloth shredder.

The ring lock stemming crack climbers right of þrjósk brjálæði

More of a toprope boulder. Climbs the polished flare from a scoop that looks like a wavy capital letter P near the top. Link a few hard moves that require body tension. Its like a V5 maybe 6 boulder but the flare doesn't take gear.