Node in Simple Monkey Day

Shares first pitch with Bangalore Bill, and the first two pitches with Mohana.

Route was put up on lead by Jean-Francois Hagenmuller and KV Mohana in the winter of 1990-91. The old bolts replaced on August 22nd, 2022 by Sohan with support from Amith BV, Raghav, and Yash Parikh. The bolt-replacement was an epic in itself, including time spent in the forest department lock-up by Raghav & Yash:)

The route goes right of by the big gash, you see on the right wall of Savandurga.

To get on the route, aim for the Beladingulu start (which has the prominent crackline), and at the base traverse right over the pile of boulders or the talus field through a short patch of forest. Access might change from time to time, as the wild terrain at all these places is known to. But the gist is this, there is an opening in the forest fence, a ribbon of forest, about 50- to 100-meters thick, then a talus field of boulders, sometimes with high grass growing between the gaps, and then the wall. The talus field is not a consistent feature around the southern base of Savandurga, and on occasion the forest extends to the base, or sometimes it is a long low-angle slab.

The first bolts may not be visible, only the anchor station might be, so, look for the fold in the slab, and aim for directly above it. this is about a rope length to the left of the big-gash.

Gear: 60- or 70-meter rope, about 8 alpine draws or quick-draws, a few pieces of gear (finger to double-finger sized, BD sizes, #.5, #.75, #1, #2). The trad rack is optional, as the second pitch could be run-out on easy terrain after where the opportunity to place a piece shows up. The third pitch could be protected too with trad gear, but is easy enough.

• P1: 5.5. 50 meters. 1 + 2 bolts • While the route eventually connects to the large gash (Dodda Gulley), the runnel connecting to it is only climbed after the first 50-60 meters. • The line starts left of the runnel and to the right of a large off-coloured feature visible about 50-meters from the ground, which is a large flake sitting on a ledge. The base is marked by a 40-50 foot long right to left running fold in the slab creating a crack system. Get atop this feature and aim for the left of the center between the runnel and the aforementioned feature.

• P2: 5.6. 60 meters. 0 + 2 bolts • From the anchor station, angle right towards the water runnel. Follow the weakness in the slab, and at a point, the slab seems to be getting stiffer, cross right over the runnel to a flake that offers up a crack to protect. At about 30-meter mark. • Rest of the line, leading straight up has large juggy ledges on the slab, so lot less stressful.

• P3: 5.4/5.5. 50 meters. 0 + 0 bolts. • This section is largely a scramble through a gulley, with an occasional moment of technical climbing to get over couple of boulders. • About 15-meters from the anchor station, you should also see the bolts on the left of the gash, of the Mohana line. • The next pitch bolts come up on the right, much before the lone tree, higher up in the gulley.

• P4: 5.10a. 45 meters. 7 + 2 bolts. • The first bolt is about 20 feet above the pile of boulders to the right. • High-angled slab with adequate friction and holds. Usual Bangalore style slab climbing, with waxing and waning of the cojones between the bolts while the holds threaten to chip off under the feet. • Scenic hanging belay at the end of this pitch.

• P5: 5.8/5.9. 45 meters. 3 + 2 bolts. • The first bolt is evidently located. The second bolt is about 25 feet or so away, in the same line, as is the third. • Route reading to identify each next bolt.

• P6: 5.6. 45 meters. 2 + 2 bolts • Aim for a line between the off-coloured dyke or the seam in the rock to the left and the dark water runnel to the right. • The two bolts exist between this line. • At some point, look for the big bush growing out of a large trench in the slab. Anchor station is to the left of it. • If you go offroute, the grade is stiffer, the protection is non-existent.

• P7: 5.5. 50 meters. 0 + 2 bolts • The older topos indicate two more bolts on the SMD’s 7th pitch, I could not find these. • While rebolting, we established an anchor, along the off-coloured dyke angling left, after about 50 meters. So, this possibly could be a deviation from the original line.

• P8: Scrambling terrain. 160 meters. • Two anchor stations that were used to rebolt the route, exist currently. Really no point clipping into these. The long walk along to the right of the gulley/water runnel to the large boulders and to the flat ground.

To exit: Walk straight across the plateau towards the Mandapam or the old ruins, which has a clearly marked trail (usually littered with plastic), heading down.