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Golfers crag Guide

  • Grade context: UK

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Unique Ascent

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Table of contents

1. Golfers crag 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

From the Owey Ferry pier Walk North following the coast for 800m, descend onto a large area of rock platforms between 2 very prominent long narrow sea inlets. On your left is the wall and recess called "Cruit Cave." Scramble over the wave sculptured cliff tops for a further 80m to the highest point. Below facing North is "Golfers Crag" a scramble down East or West will allow access to the routes at either side of the crag.

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Escape route

Climb the series of corners and platforms at the far Eastern end of crag.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

D Trad 10m
2 The Ramp

Climb the very obvious right trending ramp at the Eastern end of the crag.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

D Trad 10m
3 Undulating Forgiveness

From the base of ‘The Ramp’ climb directly to the summit up the deep cracks and the cheeky Arete above.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

S 4a Trad 10m
4 Outside Broadcast

Starting 3m from the base of ‘The Ramp’ climb the left facing corner, cross the Ramp and continue up the step cracks above.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

HS 4b Trad 10m
5 Gremlins

Climb the steep cracks left of ‘Cookie Monster Corner’, cross ‘the Ramp’ and up the right facing 'Outside Broadcast ' corner to the summit.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

HS 4b Trad 10m
6 Cookie Monster Corner

Climb the huge left facing corner, monster cams useful and 3D thinking required.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

S 4a Trad 10m
7 Black Wall Direct

Black Wall Direct HVS 5a 9m FA W. Schuessler, I. Miller 30/03/11 Climb the deep vertical crack to the left of ‘Actor's Dilema’.

FA: W. Schuessler & I. Miller, 2011

HVS 5a Trad 9m
8 Actors Dilema

From the square platform in the centre of the crag climb the steep left facing corner and follow the left trending hand crack to summit. Excellent climbing!

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

HVS 5a Trad 10m
9 Rumble Arete

Climb the sharp arete to the left of ‘Ledge Route’.

FA: I. Miller & W. Schuessler, 2011

HS 4a Trad 9m
10 Ledge Route

From the sea ward end of the square platform at the base of ‘Actor's Dilema’, climb the series of corners and ever decreasing ledges direct to the summit.

FA: I. Miller, 2009

S 4a Trad
11 Chop, Chop!

Climb the Arete between ‘Ledge Route’ and ‘Bunkered’, pleasant steepness via the inverted flake.

FA: I.Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

S 4a Trad 10m
12 Bunkered

Climb the left trending fault from the centre of the tidal island at the base of the wall.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

S 4a Trad 10m
13 1st Tee

Climb the deep right facing fault up the centre of the wall.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

VD Trad 10m
14 19th Hole

Climb the steep vertical crack, right of centre, with a mildly puzzling crux.

FA: I. Miller & C. Gleeson, 2009

S 4a Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
D Escape route Trad 10m
The Ramp Trad 10m
VD 1st Tee Trad 10m
S 4a 19th Hole Trad 10m
Bunkered Trad 10m
Chop, Chop! Trad 10m
Cookie Monster Corner Trad 10m
Ledge Route Trad
Undulating Forgiveness Trad 10m
HS 4a Rumble Arete Trad 9m
HS 4b Gremlins Trad 10m
Outside Broadcast Trad 10m
HVS 5a Actors Dilema Trad 10m
Black Wall Direct Trad 9m
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