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Pilastri

  • Grade context: FR
4
FR

Description

==[it]==

I 'Pilastri' li vedi quando sei proprio di fronte al panettone di 'Parete'.

==[en]==

You can see 'Pilastri' when you are in front of the dome of 'Parete'.

Approach

==[it]==

Dal colletto due possibilità: scendere in doppia da 'Vascelli nel sole' oppure divallare nel canale a reperire una fissa che porta alla cengia di partenza.

==[en]==

From the pass you have to options: reppels from 'Vascelli nel sole' or keep walking to the gully and find a fixed rope which brings you to the starting ledge.

Ethic inherited from Valle Orco

Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.

Bolts
are often placed for anchors & abseils, but are otherwise strongly discouraged where natural protection can be placed.

Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.

Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.

Routes

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Grade Route

==[it]==

Linea delle doppie, breve ma bella e soprattutto solare…

==[it]==

Dalle doppie di vascelli a dx(faccia a valle) verso uno spigolo 50mt circa dove inizia la via.

  1. su per muretti sino ad entrare in un diedro obliquo in strapiombo uscendo su ballatoio 30mt,6b

  2. partenza verticale e poi spigolo molto bello 35mt 6a+

  3. dritti e poi a sx in un bel diedro sino ad uscire da un camino 30mt, 6°

  4. scendere leggermente verso sx ed entrare tra due ali di roccia un bel boulder e un successivo muretto per terminare 30mt 6b

==[it]==

La via attacca 10mt a dx di kaos sotto la verticale di un gran tetto fessurato.

  1. per diedrino e poi bel diedro 30mt,5c

  2. su per rocce rotte e poi bella placca 30mt,6a

  3. traverso a dx e poi dritti su spigolo 25mt,6a

  4. a sx del tettone (no spit) sino alla sosta di kaos (pietre mobili) 20mt,6c

  5. ultimo tiro di Kaos 30mt,6b 120mt 6a, 5c obbl.

==[it]==

La via inizia dopo la strettoia della cengia, non abbiamo relazione, in posto solo uno spit.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): P. Seimandi

Date: 2020

100 selected crack climbs from completely drilled through to completely self belaying, from 6 m to 160 m.

Author(s): P. Seimandi

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9788894526516

A selective guidebook describing over 100 of the best crack climbs in the Orco Valley ranging in difficulty from F4c through to F8b, and from 6m to 160m long.

Author(s): M. Oviglia

Date: 2010

This climbing guide describes climbing gardens close to the valley as well as the well-known alpine walls of the Sergent, Caporal and at the Colle del Nivolet.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 2 May
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