Node |
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Pisa |
Vecchiano
Popular limestone crag, heavily frequented by the locals of Pisa and Lucca. Consequently, many of the routes (especially the easier ones) are very worn. Grades have not been changed to reflect this, so one may struggle on an old 4, and cruise a newer 6a. |
Vecchiano |
Valle dei Porci
Right of the tower |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Elucubrazioni maniacali |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Elucubrazioni maniacali |
5c+
Questione di testa
start as Belfagor but then keep left all the way on easier ground. |
6b+
★ Cassandra
Start as Belfagor, then keep left for a spit or so and then up. |
7a+ ★ Belfagor direct finish |
6c
★★ Belfagor
This start is used for all other neighbouring climbs. Careful: well polished footer at the start, but there is a consolation bolt that tall people can clip from the ground. Two thirds of the way up veer right to avoid the hard direct finish. |
7a+
Ensemble
Start of Balfagor, then right on ledge towards the rooflet, which you pass on the left hand side. Finish as per Balfagor again. |
6b
★★★ Elucubrazioni Maniac
Tagged in black marker. Either start as per Belfagor (left of tag) or less commonly as per VDGS (corner right of tag). Then through the middle of the rooflet on good jugs, followed by delicate slab moves to a rest before a sequency slight overhang and then a punchy final overhang (jugs at end). |
6a
★★ Via del grande sforzo
the RHS corner of EM, pumpy on tufas |
6b
★★★ Analisi
Start on orange wall right of VDGS |
6c+
Chili
Start as per Analisi, then keep right after orange wall. |
7b Pomeriggio di un senatore |
7a
★★★ La prua della nave
Well marked in white. |
6a
★★ La maga Circe
easiest of the lot and consequently very busy. Crux between bolt 3 and 4. |
6a
★ La maga Circe variant
halfway up veer right than joins back for the last couple of bolts. |
6b ★★ Ulisse |
5b+
Diedro dei cinghiali
Dirty and potentially greasy. |
5b+ ★ Caterina |
5b+
Cristiana
Start as Giuliana but ends left with Caterina |
6a
★ Giuliana
End right |
5c ★★★ La coop |
6a ★ Diretta arancione |
6b ★ Diretta arancione indirect finish |
6b+
Prima licenza
Start as DA |
7a+ Ensemble (var.) |
7b Sn |
6c Re Dell'imbuto |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Kataragama
Very popular vertical wall |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Kataragama |
6a+
★★ Cavoli a Merenda
through the cave |
6a
Illusioni Perdute
Follows the right hand edge of the cave on good holds. |
6a
★★ Samarcanda
Follow IP until after the cave, then keep right. |
6a
★★ Colibrì
Starts left of the tree. |
6a+
★★★ Kataragama
Classic route. Starts right of the tree (marked in blue letters), follow the leftwards set of bolts. Full of hidden pockets, gets harder towards the top. |
6a+
★★ Amuchina
Common start to K, then follow the middle set of bolts. Crux near the top. |
6b
★★ Mistral
Common start to K and A, or a harder direct start, then follow the right hand set of bolts. Crux near the top, but the vertical pipe provides welcome rest after the crux. |
6a+
Mestro Gigi
Start left of the corner. |
5b
★★ Diedro dorico
Three-dimensional climbing in corner with many rests and little roof-lets on good holds |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Splashdown
Furthest sector |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Splashdown |
6c
Jesus e Tequila
Follow the bulging obvious arete. Pumpy |
7a
Splashdown
Same as J&T until the bulge, then go rightwards. |
7b 7 cilum nel buio |
7a Piedi Gonfi |
7b+ Leon |
7a+ Daria |
6c La Haine |
7c+ Acqua tonica |
6a+ Gagarin |
Senza Nome N.l. |
6a+ Armstrong |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Boum Boum Jackson |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Boum Boum Jackson |
6c Maguj |
6c+ Lucida Follia |
6c+ Boia Chi Molla |
6c+ Patrizia |
7a+ Peches & Regalia |
7b+ Polvere Di Sole |
7c Arrache Coeurs |
7a+ Diretta Bbj |
7a Boum Boum Jackson |
7b Ritorno A Saigon |
7b+ Jena Plinski |
6c+ Viva Erode |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Mini Bong |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Mini Bong |
6c+ Sogno d'estate |
5b Diedro nascosto |
6c+ Beata ignoranza |
6c+ Senza nome |
6a Avril |
6a Dacia |
6a ★★ Mini Bong |
6a Au Verdon |
5a Grattugia |
6a Grattugia Diretta |
5a Via Ritrovata |
5c Spuntì |
6a Zucchero E Var Dx |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Sorella Adrenalina |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Sorella Adrenalina |
7a Pampa Pumpa left start |
6b Pampa Pumpa |
6c+ Guerrieri Dell'arcobaleno |
6b ★★★ Sorella Adrenalina |
6c Grazie Fabiana |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Tempi Duri |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Tempi Duri |
6a Orizzonte Degli Eventi |
6c+ Oltre L'orizzonte |
7a+ Diretta Al Tetto - evitare |
6a+ Sole E Acciughe |
6b+ Il Salto Del Giaguaro |
6a ★★★ Marissot |
6a Tempi Duri |
6b Niagara |
6b Piccolo Pisello |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci |
Tempi Moderni |
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Tempi Moderni |
6a Via Della Schezza |
6a Paprika |
5a Sotto La Pioggia |
5a Via Del Pellicci |
5a Spada Di Damocle |