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Node
Pisa
Vecchiano

Popular limestone crag, heavily frequented by the locals of Pisa and Lucca. Consequently, many of the routes (especially the easier ones) are very worn. Grades have not been changed to reflect this, so one may struggle on an old 4, and cruise a newer 6a.

See also https://www.falesiaonline.it/falesia/avane.html

Vecchiano
Valle dei Porci

Right of the tower

Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Elucubrazioni maniacali
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Elucubrazioni maniacali
5c+ Questione di testa

start as Belfagor but then keep left all the way on easier ground.

6b+ Cassandra

Start as Belfagor, then keep left for a spit or so and then up.

7a+ Belfagor direct finish
6c Belfagor

This start is used for all other neighbouring climbs. Careful: well polished footer at the start, but there is a consolation bolt that tall people can clip from the ground. Two thirds of the way up veer right to avoid the hard direct finish.

7a+ Ensemble

Start of Balfagor, then right on ledge towards the rooflet, which you pass on the left hand side. Finish as per Balfagor again.

6b Elucubrazioni Maniac

Tagged in black marker. Either start as per Belfagor (left of tag) or less commonly as per VDGS (corner right of tag). Then through the middle of the rooflet on good jugs, followed by delicate slab moves to a rest before a sequency slight overhang and then a punchy final overhang (jugs at end).

6a Via del grande sforzo

the RHS corner of EM, pumpy on tufas

6b Analisi

Start on orange wall right of VDGS

6c+ Chili

Start as per Analisi, then keep right after orange wall.

7b Pomeriggio di un senatore
7a La prua della nave

Well marked in white.

6a La maga Circe

easiest of the lot and consequently very busy. Crux between bolt 3 and 4.

6a La maga Circe variant

halfway up veer right than joins back for the last couple of bolts.

6b Ulisse
5b+ Diedro dei cinghiali

Dirty and potentially greasy.

5b+ Caterina
5b+ Cristiana

Start as Giuliana but ends left with Caterina

6a Giuliana

End right

5c La coop
6a Diretta arancione
6b Diretta arancione indirect finish
6b+ Prima licenza

Start as DA

7a+ Ensemble (var.)
7b Sn
6c Re Dell'imbuto
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Kataragama

Very popular vertical wall

Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Kataragama
6a+ Cavoli a Merenda

through the cave

6a Illusioni Perdute

Follows the right hand edge of the cave on good holds.

6a Samarcanda

Follow IP until after the cave, then keep right.

6a Colibrì

Starts left of the tree.

6a+ Kataragama

Classic route. Starts right of the tree (marked in blue letters), follow the leftwards set of bolts. Full of hidden pockets, gets harder towards the top.

6a+ Amuchina

Common start to K, then follow the middle set of bolts. Crux near the top.

6b Mistral

Common start to K and A, or a harder direct start, then follow the right hand set of bolts. Crux near the top, but the vertical pipe provides welcome rest after the crux.

6a+ Mestro Gigi

Start left of the corner.

5b Diedro dorico

Three-dimensional climbing in corner with many rests and little roof-lets on good holds

Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Splashdown

Furthest sector

Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Splashdown
6c Jesus e Tequila

Follow the bulging obvious arete. Pumpy

7a Splashdown

Same as J&T until the bulge, then go rightwards.

7b 7 cilum nel buio
7a Piedi Gonfi
7b+ Leon
7a+ Daria
6c La Haine
7c+ Acqua tonica
6a+ Gagarin
Senza Nome N.l.
6a+ Armstrong
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Boum Boum Jackson
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Boum Boum Jackson
6c Maguj
6c+ Lucida Follia
6c+ Boia Chi Molla
6c+ Patrizia
7a+ Peches & Regalia
7b+ Polvere Di Sole
7c Arrache Coeurs
7a+ Diretta Bbj
7a Boum Boum Jackson
7b Ritorno A Saigon
7b+ Jena Plinski
6c+ Viva Erode
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Mini Bong
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Mini Bong
6c+ Sogno d'estate
5b Diedro nascosto
6c+ Beata ignoranza
6c+ Senza nome
6a Avril
6a Dacia
6a Mini Bong
6a Au Verdon
5a Grattugia
6a Grattugia Diretta
5a Via Ritrovata
5c Spuntì
6a Zucchero E Var Dx
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Sorella Adrenalina
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Sorella Adrenalina
7a Pampa Pumpa left start
6b Pampa Pumpa
6c+ Guerrieri Dell'arcobaleno
6b Sorella Adrenalina
6c Grazie Fabiana
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Tempi Duri
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Tempi Duri
6a Orizzonte Degli Eventi
6c+ Oltre L'orizzonte
7a+ Diretta Al Tetto - evitare
6a+ Sole E Acciughe
6b+ Il Salto Del Giaguaro
6a Marissot
6a Tempi Duri
6b Niagara
6b Piccolo Pisello
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci
Tempi Moderni
Vecchiano Valle dei Porci Tempi Moderni
6a Via Della Schezza
6a Paprika
5a Sotto La Pioggia
5a Via Del Pellicci
5a Spada Di Damocle

Showing 1 - 100 out of 309 nodes.

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