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Ascents in Trentino-Alto Adige by tgbuckley482

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 141 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Torri del Sella
First Sella Tower South-east Face
5- 4 Via dei Camini - with Liam Mixed trad 120m, 5 Mega Classic
Poor, poor Liam. Wanted to go for some easy rock climbing, instead got -1 degrees, 50km/h winds and 500m exposure for the price of 100m. Cracker of a route, definitely slippery and polished in the more clearly defined parts of the route, which for me bumps it up a grade or two. The jump across the gap at the top is easy, but absolutely priceless.

 
Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector
7a Osso da Brodo P1 - with Gabs
1 7a 20m lead by Gabs
Mixed trad 20m, 10 Classic
Had a sweaty grovel up this number. 6c++, plus another + for humidity. Some incredible friciton stemming in the dihedral, broken up by angry laybacking and the odd crimp. Much nicer than I would've thought!

 
Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone
6b La Classica (La Classica P1) - with Gabs
1 6b 26m
Sport 26m Mega Classic
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Trodena Molini
Settore Inferiore B
6a+ Supersismi - with Alex Sport 15m Very Good
Spotted a lovely little bat in the undercling. Thought it was odd that the rock was squeaking

 
6c Die Hans-Ploderer-Route - with Alex Sport 10m Very Good
so hard! wtf. A serious lack of holds, especially in the upper section

 
5c Liza - with Alex Sport 12m Very Good
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Trodena Molini
Settore Inferiore A
5a Peter Pan - with Alex Sport 15m Very Good
5b Halebopp - with Alex Sport 16m Good
5c Pizza Regina - with Alex Sport 18m Very Good
Fri 29th Oct 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
6a Hercules - with Alex Sport 15m, 6 Classic
Fri 6th Aug 2021 - Sarner Scharte
Südwestgipfel
6+ 6 Engelskante - with Will Mixed trad 360m, 16 Mega Classic
What an epic! Simuled the easy pitches, sweated profusely on the slab pitches.

Yes, the schnapps castle was epic

 
Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone
7a Le Spalle di Damocle Sport 35m Mega Classic
Still proving to be an ultimate pain in the dick.

But oh god I love this climb!

 
7a Le Spalle di Damocle Sport 35m Mega Classic
Aid solo fun to set up a toprope for myself

 
Thu 29th Jul 2021 - Sassolungo
Northeast Face Weißer Pfeiler
5 Via Cipriani - with WIll Mixed trad 300m, 20 Classic
A great day out! The climbing is absolutely lovely, and lots of trad gear placements are available all over the wall.

The is generally very high quality - the lower glacially carved slabs are beautifully smooth and compact, with occasionally tricky moves.

There was rope garbage alllll over the wall, I cut some old cords and left a few new ones to tidy up place. Probably needs some more fresh cords if another party goes up. Abseil was tricky too, but otherwise highly recommended.

 
Mon 26th Jul 2021 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone
7a Le Spalle di Damocle - with Alex Sport 35m Mega Classic
Amazing! Got totally shut down, can't wait to try again

 
Mon 26th Jul 2021 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector
6a Lama Bolzano - with Alex
1 6a 20m lead by tgbuckley482
Sport 20m Good
Hopped on this to do some vertical gardening. I think it's got some potential?

 
Fri 23rd Jul 2021 - Gruppo del Catinaccio
Torri del Vajolet Torre Stabeler
5+ 5 Variante Vinatzer (Via Fehrmann) - with Paolo Trad 150m Very Good
What is the meaning of life?

How did such an easy climb become such an epic?

How did I become so stupendously charismatic?

All are valid questions, worth investigating deeper in the future.

I believe we can all agree that 6 hours on this climb are several too many hours.

Bloody nice scenery, and some fun jamming.

 
Fri 23rd Jul 2021 - Gruppo del Catinaccio
Torri del Vajolet Torre Delago
4+ Spigolo Piaz - with Paolo Trad 160m Mega Classic
Finally found the time to tick off this incredible ultra-mega-super-duper-ultimate classic, and it earns every one of those adjectives.

Nothing will prepare your for the shock to the system as you stem around the arete ....BAM as it drops 800m down to the valley floor beneath.

Top class exposure at a bargain price.

 
Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Nago
Parete Dos Casina
5+ 5 Via del Baffo - with Alex Trad 85m Very Good
A lovely little climb. Definitely super sandbagged, but that's all good.

Got completely lost on P1 - 1 hour of delicate tip toeing up loose blocks of limestone, finding the occasional small crack to wedge something in, that hopefully won't pop off the entire block that creates said crack. Apologies to any hikers below, I didn't hear any screams so that's good news?

 
Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Nago
Parete Dos Casina
6 Via delle Mamme - with Paolo Trad 110m Good
Stunning, high quality rock, but fuck that! The most horrible, squeezy, death chimney, and the only protection is dEEEEEp in the dark recesses, waiting to swallow you up (lest your knee jam slips off the smooth, powdering limestone). A definite adventure.

Bailed after P2

 
Fri 9th Jul 2021 - Nago
Falesia Segrom Sector G
6b Idich - with Paolo Sport 25m Very Good
Lovely climb! A very unique style. Lots of small 2-finger pockets and crimps everywhere, and small feet dispersed all over the place. Feel very technical and balancy. Hard to read but very satisfying

 
5c+ 5c Little Crack - with Paolo Sport 14m Classic
Lovely bolted crack - who can say no?!

If you do it completely as a crack (i.e. jams not laybacking) the final move to the anchor feels tricky

 
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor A
7a Blutspender - with Alex Sport 12m, 6 Mega Classic
Got it!!! Fucking finally

Suprisingly, I just sailed up the climb this time. Got to watch another couple climb it first, maybe that helped me get in the zone

 
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
6a A proprio rischio - with Alex Sport 18m, 9 Good
A chossy, wierd start up to some lovely slab moves on solid rock at the top. Feels pretty airy at the top! Needs a good brush and a few loose rocks removed

 
Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Jenesien
Noafer Pichl
5 Sonntagsspaziergang Sport 260m Good
A pleasant early morning lap on the Sonntag to escape the summer heat and try out my new rope soloing system. Lots of fun, but also mountains of work!

 
Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Tisner Auen
Sektor B / Settore B
8a K(r)ompfader Sport 25m Very Good
Oh geeze. 2/3 of this are pretty doable and fun, but I found the 8a section at the top. zero footholds!!

 
Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Tisner Auen
Sektor A / Settore A
5b+ Mara - with Alex Sport 16m Very Good
4 Was guckst du? - with Alex Sport 16m Average
6a Kiss the Riss - with Alex Sport 16m Very Good
Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Torri del Sella
First Sella Tower South-west Face
5+ Via Trenker - with Tristan Trad 230m Mega Classic
An epic outing! First experience leading trad pitches in the dolomites, amazeballs

 
Tue 15th Jun 2021 - Tisner Auen
Sektor B / Settore B
6b Patagonia - with Alex Sport 25m Mega Classic
5c+ Hotzenplotz - with Alex Sport 25m Very Good
8a K(r)ompfader - with Alex Sport 25m Mega Classic
Accidental thrash on the wrong route.

Managed to pull individual moves, but in the end just pulled on the draws to the anchor.

Epic roof crack! Holy balls, maybe one day

 
Mon 7th Jun 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
6b Spiderman - with tristan, james Sport 12m, 4 Mega Classic
5c Re Scorpione - with tristan, james Sport 21m, 9 Very Good
6a Hercules - with tristan, james Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
5a I Puffi - with tristan, james Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
Mon 7th Jun 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor A
7a Blutspender - with tristan Sport 12m, 6 Mega Classic
SOOOOOOOOOOOO CLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSE

 
Thu 13th May 2021 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone
6b La Classica - with Paolo Sport 61m Mega Classic
What an excellent journey! A three-pitch wonder, not to be ignored by anyone induldging in some porphyr climbing in the area.

Well-bolted (occasionally a little spaced in the chimney/easier sections).

A good variety of different climb styles as you venture further up the candelone: chimney, offwidth, fist/hand crack, stemming and even a little face climbing.

 
Fri 7th May 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor A
7a Blutspender Sport 12m, 6 Mega Classic
Got on top rope! Too pumped to try again, session complete

 
7a Blutspender Sport 12m, 6 Mega Classic
Jumped back on to work out the moves and perfect a few bits. Pumpy and fun! Not your typical porphyr climb

 
Fri 7th May 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
6b Spiderman Sport 12m, 4 Classic
aaaaaaaaaaand got it

 
6b Spiderman Sport 12m, 4 Classic
Such a great climb! Short, but so much fun!

Had to figure out the moves on this one again, very specific sequence to get up it.

 
Thu 6th May 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
6a Hercules - with Paolo Sport 15m, 6 Good
Didn't notice the spacious bolting when top soloing this. A bit more exciting on lead, some fun moves

 
Tue 27th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
5c+ Piccolo serpente nero Sport 17m, 8 Average
Difficult, mossy/sandy start, rock quality gradually gets better as you go up. Some interesting dihedral/arete moves at the top

 
5c Re Scorpione Sport 21m, 9 Classic
Faaantastic. A beautiful line that follows a various weaknesses up the rock face.

Super-hard rock up at the top, a very specific sequence that picks it way up through the mini roof to the anchors.

Highly recommended, a mini-adventure in its own

 
Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Virgolo Cracks
7a+ Fight Club Trad 15m Classic
what a fucking struggle! Don't waste 6 hours at the gym every week, just come here instead.

An amazing variety of different, body, leg, knee, foot, fist and hand jams, combined with stemming, crimps, delicate footwork in an offwidth corner. Definitely recommended

 
Fri 23rd Apr 2021 - Virgolo Cracks
6c Black Mamba - with Michele Trad 20m Mega Classic
Oooft! Felt like a hero through the first section, only to realise that the real climbing hadn't yet begun.

Thin, varied jams and some long, athletic movements. Lots of potential sequences, but it feels like there's a pretty set sequence. Played with some pro on toprope, pro seems pretty solid.

 
Thu 22nd Apr 2021 - Morderplotta
6c Celebration of the Lizzard - with Fillipo Sport 16m, 9 Very Good
Multiple attempts on this guy, still no success. Arrrrrrd

Fingery, bouldery with weird holds that you need to get at the right angles, and a very specific sequence to figure out.

 
6b+ Capo Horn - with Fillipo Sport 16m, 9 Good
A sad re-entry into the joys of slippery sport cragging. Time to get training

 
6a Earth wind and fire - with Fillipo Sport 17m, 10 Very Good
Bastard of a first move, then gradually gets less polished the further up you go. Good fun!

 
Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Seitner Berg
Parete di Seit
7+ Haselburg-Riss - with Michele, Fillipo Trad 130m Very Good
What fun climb!

The pitch number 2 is the money pitch, with a near splitter crack and quality pro. P3 was also very good quality - thin jams become a smeary layback, then you traverse out/up to some jugs (no more gear) up to the anchor. Kudos to you sir, Michele.

1st pitch is a bit a gardening expedition, whereas the final is a wandery/chossy alpine chimney up to the anchor - extenders & cojones recommended.

 
Sat 17th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor A
7a Blutspender - with Andrea Sport 12m, 6 Mega Classic
Awesome! So many beautiful little holds, just where you need. Fun bouldery sequences broken up by nice rests. Very well bolted, definitely recommended.

Next is to lead it!

 
Sat 17th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
5a I Puffi - with Andrea Sport 20m, 9 Classic
5c+ Murmele - with Andrea Sport 15m, 8 Very Good
Tue 13th Apr 2021 - Piccola Virgolo
5c+ 1 Sport 9m Average
A wierd L variant of Illuminati. meh

 
6a illuminati Sport 9m Very Good
Good fun! Nice thin moves to a jug, then up the slab.

 
5b Graffiti Sport 9m Very Good
Interesting stemming moves leads up to the slab. Final move to the anchor is thought-provoking

 
5b La Portegna Sport 10m Very Good
5a Cakewalk Sport 10m Good
5b La Bestia Nera Sport 9m Very Good
5c Chiudi il buco Sport 8m Very Good
Good fun! Some nice big moves on jugs for the first few metres, then eases up to the anchor.

 
Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor A
3 Topolino - with Andrea, Chiara Sport 10m Good
5a Paperino - with Andrea, Chiara Sport 11m, 7 Good
5c Orso Bruno - with Andrea, Chiara Sport 12m, 5 Very Good
Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor B
5c+ Murmele Sport 15m, 8 Very Good
Blocky, some interesting rock-over moves

 
6c 6b Spiderman Sport 12m, 4 Classic
Very short but feels more like 6c! Definitely not easy or obvious. Very specific sequence is very fun to figure out

 
6a Hercules Sport 15m, 6 Classic
Really nice! A super interesting blocky dihedral/corner.

Possible on trad gear?

 
Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor A
6b+ Linea Poco Logica Sport 12m, 5 Very Good
A cool arete with some tricky moves. Poco logica, ma interessante

 
Thu 1st Apr 2021 - Seitner Berg
Parete di Seit
6b+ Il Cielo Sopra Bolzano - with Michele Sport 170m, 88 Very Good
A fantastic route on good quality rock. All the anchors have 2-3 new bolts with chains.

Very closely bolted with some fixed quickdraws, which makes it very safe/easy for the grade.

Sad to see so many chipped holds, especially on pitch 6 where it is impossible to not use them, as they have chipped every hold on the pitch (the bolts are so close that you could leave it as ~7a or an aid pitch)

Surprised how many bolts there are, as their is a lot of natural protection available too.

4x abseils to get down, was fine with 2x50m ropes.

Otherwise bloody good fun, definitely recommended

 
Sat 27th Mar 2021 - Virgolo Cracks
6a+ Mezzogiorno di fuoco Trad 20m Mega Classic
Amazing jamming! Such a sick crack with solid protection

 
6b+ Larga Ma non Troppo Trad 24m Classic
Burly! Some powerful moves and a good variety of crack climbing styles required to get up this guy

 
6b Fessura del Gufo Trad 24m Classic
Attempted as an offwidth, immediately resorted to man-power (i.e. laybacking and questionable footwork)

 
Mon 22nd Mar 2021 - Col dell'uomo
Sektor A
5a Paperino Sport 11m, 7 Good
6c Vernatsch Sport 14m, 6 Very Good
Thu 18th Mar 2021 - Piccola Virgolo
5a 5c+ 1 Sport 9m
5c Chiudi il buco Sport 8m
5b 6a illuminati (2) Sport 9m
5b La Bestia Nera (6) Sport 9m
6a 5a Cakewalk (5) Sport 10m
5c+ 5b La Portegna (4) Sport 10m
5c 5b Graffiti (3) Sport 9m
Fri 12th Mar 2021 - Jenesien
Noafer Pichl
5- Sonntagsspaziergang
1 5- 255m
2 3
3 5-
4
5
6
7
Sport 260m Very Good
Experimenting with some lead rope soloing. Left an abseil carabiner at the top of P3.

 
Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Jenesien
Noafer Pichl
5- 5 Sonntagsspaziergang - with Steve Sport 260m Very Good
Another great outing. This time accessed from below on the bike (thanks Kompy).

Entrance/exit trails heaps more clear now, plus a lovely summit book!

 
Wed 17th Feb 2021 - Bagni Di Zolfo
Settore Strapiombi
6b Mamma Mia Sport 20m Very Good
Wed 17th Feb 2021 - Bagni Di Zolfo
Settore facile
5b+ Cactus/Kaktus Sport 18m Very Good
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector
6b+ Subatomica - with Paolo Sport 32m, 17 Classic
Spicy and thrilling. Love me some airy traverses on thin holds

 
Thu 29th Oct 2020 - Valle del Sarca
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud
6 Via Selene - with Paolo Sport 250m Very Good
Climbing is amazing! sport climbing on permanent threads, some of which are a little sunbleached and dodgy. All bolted anchors, a tiny bit of trad gear recommended

 
Tue 13th Oct 2020 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector
6b L'Amaro San Giacomo - with Paolo Sport 25m Very Good
A thrilling and exciting advenuture. If you enjoy exposure and adrenaline in a sport climbing environment, then this is for you!

 
Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector
6a Veni, Vidi, V'edy - with Paolo Sport 28m, 14 Very Good
Tue 29th Sep 2020 - Seitner Berg
San Giacomo Parete principale Kindergarten
5c Lylly Sport 18m Good
Sun 27th Sep 2020 - Tisner Auen
Sektor B / Settore B
5c Kaminkehrer Sport 25m Classic
6a Die Schöne Sport 25m Good
6c Avapxia Sport 25m Good
Sun 27th Sep 2020 - Tisner Auen
Sektor A / Settore A
5b+ Zeitlous - with Pia, Tristan Sport 15m
6a Kiss the Riss - with Pia, Tristan Sport 16m
5a MFG - with Pia, Tristan Sport 20m
5a Kindheitstraum - with Pia, Tristan Sport 24m Good
5a Etschtol Kante - with Pia, Tristan Sport 24m Good
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Tisner Auen
Sektor A / Settore A
5b+ Zeitlous - with Diego Sport 15m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 141 ascents.

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