Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Torri del Sella | ||||||
First Sella Tower South-east Face | ||||||
5- 4 | ★★★ Via dei Camini - with Liam | 120m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Poor, poor Liam. Wanted to go for some easy rock climbing, instead got -1 degrees, 50km/h winds and 500m exposure for the price of 100m. Cracker of a route, definitely slippery and polished in the more clearly defined parts of the route, which for me bumps it up a grade or two. The jump across the gap at the top is easy, but absolutely priceless.
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector | ||||||
7a |
★★★ Osso da Brodo P1
- with
Gabs
1
7a
20m
lead by
Gabs
| 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had a sweaty grovel up this number. 6c++, plus another + for humidity. Some incredible friciton stemming in the dihedral, broken up by angry laybacking and the odd crimp. Much nicer than I would've thought!
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone | ||||||
6b |
★★★ La Classica (La Classica P1)
- with
Gabs
1
6b
26m
| 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Trodena Molini | ||||||
Settore Inferiore B | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Supersismi - with Alex | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Spotted a lovely little bat in the undercling. Thought it was odd that the rock was squeaking
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6c | ★★ Die Hans-Ploderer-Route - with Alex | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
so hard! wtf. A serious lack of holds, especially in the upper section
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5c | ★★ Liza - with Alex | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Trodena Molini | ||||||
Settore Inferiore A | ||||||
5a | ★ Peter Pan - with Alex | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5b | ★ Halebopp - with Alex | 16m | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★★ Pizza Regina - with Alex | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 29th Oct 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
6a | ★★ Hercules - with Alex | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 6th Aug 2021 - Sarner Scharte | ||||||
Südwestgipfel | ||||||
6+ 6 | ★★★ Engelskante - with Will | 360m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What an epic! Simuled the easy pitches, sweated profusely on the slab pitches.
Yes, the schnapps castle was epic |
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Le Spalle di Damocle | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Still proving to be an ultimate pain in the dick.
But oh god I love this climb! |
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7a | ★★★ Le Spalle di Damocle | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Aid solo fun to set up a toprope for myself
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Thu 29th Jul 2021 - Sassolungo | ||||||
Northeast Face Weißer Pfeiler | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Via Cipriani - with WIll | 300m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great day out! The climbing is absolutely lovely, and lots of trad gear placements are available all over the wall.
The is generally very high quality - the lower glacially carved slabs are beautifully smooth and compact, with occasionally tricky moves. There was rope garbage alllll over the wall, I cut some old cords and left a few new ones to tidy up place. Probably needs some more fresh cords if another party goes up. Abseil was tricky too, but otherwise highly recommended. |
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Mon 26th Jul 2021 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Le Spalle di Damocle - with Alex | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing! Got totally shut down, can't wait to try again
|
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Mon 26th Jul 2021 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector | ||||||
6a |
★ Lama Bolzano
- with
Alex
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
Hopped on this to do some vertical gardening. I think it's got some potential?
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Fri 23rd Jul 2021 - Gruppo del Catinaccio | ||||||
Torri del Vajolet Torre Stabeler | ||||||
5+ 5 | ★★ Variante Vinatzer (Via Fehrmann) - with Paolo | 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
What is the meaning of life?
How did such an easy climb become such an epic? How did I become so stupendously charismatic? All are valid questions, worth investigating deeper in the future. I believe we can all agree that 6 hours on this climb are several too many hours. Bloody nice scenery, and some fun jamming. |
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Fri 23rd Jul 2021 - Gruppo del Catinaccio | ||||||
Torri del Vajolet Torre Delago | ||||||
4+ | ★★★ Spigolo Piaz - with Paolo | 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally found the time to tick off this incredible ultra-mega-super-duper-ultimate classic, and it earns every one of those adjectives.
Nothing will prepare your for the shock to the system as you stem around the arete ....BAM as it drops 800m down to the valley floor beneath. Top class exposure at a bargain price. |
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Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Nago | ||||||
Parete Dos Casina | ||||||
5+ 5 | ★★ Via del Baffo - with Alex | 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A lovely little climb. Definitely super sandbagged, but that's all good.
Got completely lost on P1 - 1 hour of delicate tip toeing up loose blocks of limestone, finding the occasional small crack to wedge something in, that hopefully won't pop off the entire block that creates said crack. Apologies to any hikers below, I didn't hear any screams so that's good news? |
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Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Nago | ||||||
Parete Dos Casina | ||||||
6 | ★★ Via delle Mamme - with Paolo | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Stunning, high quality rock, but fuck that! The most horrible, squeezy, death chimney, and the only protection is dEEEEEp in the dark recesses, waiting to swallow you up (lest your knee jam slips off the smooth, powdering limestone). A definite adventure.
Bailed after P2 |
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Fri 9th Jul 2021 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector G | ||||||
6b | ★★ Idich - with Paolo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely climb! A very unique style. Lots of small 2-finger pockets and crimps everywhere, and small feet dispersed all over the place. Feel very technical and balancy. Hard to read but very satisfying
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5c+ 5c | ★ Little Crack - with Paolo | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lovely bolted crack - who can say no?!
If you do it completely as a crack (i.e. jams not laybacking) the final move to the anchor feels tricky |
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Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor A | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Blutspender - with Alex | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got it!!! Fucking finally
Suprisingly, I just sailed up the climb this time. Got to watch another couple climb it first, maybe that helped me get in the zone |
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Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
6a | ★ A proprio rischio - with Alex | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
A chossy, wierd start up to some lovely slab moves on solid rock at the top. Feels pretty airy at the top! Needs a good brush and a few loose rocks removed
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Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Jenesien | ||||||
Noafer Pichl | ||||||
5 | ★★ Sonntagsspaziergang | 260m | ★ Good | |||
A pleasant early morning lap on the Sonntag to escape the summer heat and try out my new rope soloing system. Lots of fun, but also mountains of work!
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Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Tisner Auen | ||||||
Sektor B / Settore B | ||||||
8a | ★★ K(r)ompfader | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Oh geeze. 2/3 of this are pretty doable and fun, but I found the 8a section at the top. zero footholds!!
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Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Tisner Auen | ||||||
Sektor A / Settore A | ||||||
5b+ | ★ Mara - with Alex | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
4 | ★ Was guckst du? - with Alex | 16m | Average | |||
6a | ★★★ Kiss the Riss - with Alex | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Torri del Sella | ||||||
First Sella Tower South-west Face | ||||||
5+ | ★★★ Via Trenker - with Tristan | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An epic outing! First experience leading trad pitches in the dolomites, amazeballs
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Tue 15th Jun 2021 - Tisner Auen | ||||||
Sektor B / Settore B | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Patagonia - with Alex | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5c+ | ★★ Hotzenplotz - with Alex | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
8a | ★★ K(r)ompfader - with Alex | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Accidental thrash on the wrong route.
Managed to pull individual moves, but in the end just pulled on the draws to the anchor. Epic roof crack! Holy balls, maybe one day |
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Mon 7th Jun 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
6b | ★★ Spiderman - with tristan, james | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5c | ★★ Re Scorpione - with tristan, james | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Hercules - with tristan, james | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5a | ★★ I Puffi - with tristan, james | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 7th Jun 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor A | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Blutspender - with tristan | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
SOOOOOOOOOOOO CLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSE
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Thu 13th May 2021 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Il Candelone | ||||||
6b | ★★★ La Classica - with Paolo | 61m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What an excellent journey! A three-pitch wonder, not to be ignored by anyone induldging in some porphyr climbing in the area.
Well-bolted (occasionally a little spaced in the chimney/easier sections). A good variety of different climb styles as you venture further up the candelone: chimney, offwidth, fist/hand crack, stemming and even a little face climbing. |
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Fri 7th May 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor A | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Blutspender | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got on top rope! Too pumped to try again, session complete
|
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7a | ★★★ Blutspender | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Jumped back on to work out the moves and perfect a few bits. Pumpy and fun! Not your typical porphyr climb
|
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Fri 7th May 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
6b | ★★ Spiderman | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
aaaaaaaaaaand got it
|
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6b | ★★ Spiderman | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Such a great climb! Short, but so much fun!
Had to figure out the moves on this one again, very specific sequence to get up it. |
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Thu 6th May 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
6a | ★★ Hercules - with Paolo | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Didn't notice the spacious bolting when top soloing this. A bit more exciting on lead, some fun moves
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Tue 27th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
5c+ | ★ Piccolo serpente nero | 17m, 8 | Average | |||
Difficult, mossy/sandy start, rock quality gradually gets better as you go up. Some interesting dihedral/arete moves at the top
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5c | ★★ Re Scorpione | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Faaantastic. A beautiful line that follows a various weaknesses up the rock face.
Super-hard rock up at the top, a very specific sequence that picks it way up through the mini roof to the anchors. Highly recommended, a mini-adventure in its own |
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Virgolo Cracks | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Fight Club | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
what a fucking struggle! Don't waste 6 hours at the gym every week, just come here instead.
An amazing variety of different, body, leg, knee, foot, fist and hand jams, combined with stemming, crimps, delicate footwork in an offwidth corner. Definitely recommended |
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Fri 23rd Apr 2021 - Virgolo Cracks | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Black Mamba - with Michele | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Oooft! Felt like a hero through the first section, only to realise that the real climbing hadn't yet begun.
Thin, varied jams and some long, athletic movements. Lots of potential sequences, but it feels like there's a pretty set sequence. Played with some pro on toprope, pro seems pretty solid. |
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Thu 22nd Apr 2021 - Morderplotta | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Celebration of the Lizzard - with Fillipo | 16m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Multiple attempts on this guy, still no success. Arrrrrrd
Fingery, bouldery with weird holds that you need to get at the right angles, and a very specific sequence to figure out. |
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6b+ | ★ Capo Horn - with Fillipo | 16m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
A sad re-entry into the joys of slippery sport cragging. Time to get training
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6a | ★★ Earth wind and fire - with Fillipo | 17m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bastard of a first move, then gradually gets less polished the further up you go. Good fun!
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Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
Parete di Seit | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Haselburg-Riss - with Michele, Fillipo | 130m | ★★ Very Good | |||
What fun climb!
The pitch number 2 is the money pitch, with a near splitter crack and quality pro. P3 was also very good quality - thin jams become a smeary layback, then you traverse out/up to some jugs (no more gear) up to the anchor. Kudos to you sir, Michele. 1st pitch is a bit a gardening expedition, whereas the final is a wandery/chossy alpine chimney up to the anchor - extenders & cojones recommended. |
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Sat 17th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor A | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Blutspender - with Andrea | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome! So many beautiful little holds, just where you need. Fun bouldery sequences broken up by nice rests. Very well bolted, definitely recommended.
Next is to lead it! |
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Sat 17th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
5a | ★★ I Puffi - with Andrea | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5c+ | ★★ Murmele - with Andrea | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 13th Apr 2021 - Piccola Virgolo | ||||||
5c+ | 1 | 9m | Average | |||
A wierd L variant of Illuminati. meh
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6a | ★★ illuminati | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun! Nice thin moves to a jug, then up the slab.
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5b | ★★ Graffiti | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting stemming moves leads up to the slab. Final move to the anchor is thought-provoking
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5b | ★★ La Portegna | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5a | ★ Cakewalk | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5b | ★★ La Bestia Nera | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5c | ★★ Chiudi il buco | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun! Some nice big moves on jugs for the first few metres, then eases up to the anchor.
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor A | ||||||
3 | ★ Topolino - with Andrea, Chiara | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5a | ★★ Paperino - with Andrea, Chiara | 11m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★★ Orso Bruno - with Andrea, Chiara | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor B | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ Murmele | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Blocky, some interesting rock-over moves
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6c 6b | ★★ Spiderman | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very short but feels more like 6c! Definitely not easy or obvious. Very specific sequence is very fun to figure out
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6a | ★★ Hercules | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice! A super interesting blocky dihedral/corner.
Possible on trad gear? |
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Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor A | ||||||
6b+ | Linea Poco Logica | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A cool arete with some tricky moves. Poco logica, ma interessante
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Thu 1st Apr 2021 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
Parete di Seit | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Il Cielo Sopra Bolzano - with Michele | 170m, 88 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fantastic route on good quality rock. All the anchors have 2-3 new bolts with chains.
Very closely bolted with some fixed quickdraws, which makes it very safe/easy for the grade. Sad to see so many chipped holds, especially on pitch 6 where it is impossible to not use them, as they have chipped every hold on the pitch (the bolts are so close that you could leave it as ~7a or an aid pitch) Surprised how many bolts there are, as their is a lot of natural protection available too. 4x abseils to get down, was fine with 2x50m ropes. Otherwise bloody good fun, definitely recommended |
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Sat 27th Mar 2021 - Virgolo Cracks | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Mezzogiorno di fuoco | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing jamming! Such a sick crack with solid protection
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6b+ | ★★★ Larga Ma non Troppo | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Burly! Some powerful moves and a good variety of crack climbing styles required to get up this guy
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6b | ★★★ Fessura del Gufo | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Attempted as an offwidth, immediately resorted to man-power (i.e. laybacking and questionable footwork)
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Mon 22nd Mar 2021 - Col dell'uomo | ||||||
Sektor A | ||||||
5a | ★★ Paperino | 11m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
6c | ★★ Vernatsch | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 18th Mar 2021 - Piccola Virgolo | ||||||
5a 5c+ | 1 | 9m | ||||
5c | ★★ Chiudi il buco | 8m | ||||
5b 6a | ★★ illuminati (2) | 9m | ||||
5b | ★★ La Bestia Nera (6) | 9m | ||||
6a 5a | ★ Cakewalk (5) | 10m | ||||
5c+ 5b | ★★ La Portegna (4) | 10m | ||||
5c 5b | ★★ Graffiti (3) | 9m | ||||
Fri 12th Mar 2021 - Jenesien | ||||||
Noafer Pichl | ||||||
5- |
★★ Sonntagsspaziergang
1
5-
255m
2
3
3
5-
4
5
6
7
| 260m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Experimenting with some lead rope soloing. Left an abseil carabiner at the top of P3.
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Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Jenesien | ||||||
Noafer Pichl | ||||||
5- 5 | ★★ Sonntagsspaziergang - with Steve | 260m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another great outing. This time accessed from below on the bike (thanks Kompy).
Entrance/exit trails heaps more clear now, plus a lovely summit book! |
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Wed 17th Feb 2021 - Bagni Di Zolfo | ||||||
Settore Strapiombi | ||||||
6b | ★★ Mamma Mia | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 17th Feb 2021 - Bagni Di Zolfo | ||||||
Settore facile | ||||||
5b+ | ★ Cactus/Kaktus | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Subatomica - with Paolo | 32m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Spicy and thrilling. Love me some airy traverses on thin holds
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Thu 29th Oct 2020 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Via Selene - with Paolo | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbing is amazing! sport climbing on permanent threads, some of which are a little sunbleached and dodgy. All bolted anchors, a tiny bit of trad gear recommended
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Tue 13th Oct 2020 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector | ||||||
6b | ★★ L'Amaro San Giacomo - with Paolo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A thrilling and exciting advenuture. If you enjoy exposure and adrenaline in a sport climbing environment, then this is for you!
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Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Main Sector | ||||||
6a | ★★ Veni, Vidi, V'edy - with Paolo | 28m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 29th Sep 2020 - Seitner Berg | ||||||
San Giacomo Parete principale Kindergarten | ||||||
5c | ★★ Lylly | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 27th Sep 2020 - Tisner Auen | ||||||
Sektor B / Settore B | ||||||
5c | ★★ Kaminkehrer | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a | ★★ Die Schöne | 25m | ★ Good | |||
6c | ★★ Avapxia | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 27th Sep 2020 - Tisner Auen | ||||||
Sektor A / Settore A | ||||||
5b+ | ★ Zeitlous - with Pia, Tristan | 15m | ||||
6a | ★★★ Kiss the Riss - with Pia, Tristan | 16m | ||||
5a | ★ MFG - with Pia, Tristan | 20m | ||||
5a | ★ Kindheitstraum - with Pia, Tristan | 24m | ★ Good | |||
5a | ★ Etschtol Kante - with Pia, Tristan | 24m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Tisner Auen | ||||||
Sektor A / Settore A | ||||||
5b+ | ★ Zeitlous - with Diego | 15m |