Showing all 17 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Gran Paradiso Val di Cogne, vallata principale | |||||
WI4 | Parto gemellare
An icefall that develops right over the main road of the valley! P1 starts at the bottom of the avalanche protector "Lays" that covers that section of road. It's the hardest pitch, nearly vertical pillar with anchor on the left. Two easier pitches follow, but are not visible from the road. Virtually no approach. Please park you car sensibly as that road is quite trafficked. | 150m, 3 | |||
Gran Paradiso Cogne/Lillaz | |||||
WI3 | ★★ Cascate di Lillaz
A lovely introductory icefall, with a very short approach. It's equipped with lots of anchors along the way and can be curtained virtually anywhere. | 250m | |||
Gran Paradiso Valnontey | |||||
WI4- | ★★★ Patrì Left
Megaclassic, with many possible variations. Often crowded, to be avoided on the weekend. It forms rather early and also in relatively warm winters. FA: G.C. Grassi & P. Marchisio, 1985 | 250m, 5 | |||
WI4 | ★★★ Patrì Right
Variation of the original Patrì (left). Same as above until the last section, then follow the pillar on the right. | 250m, 5 | |||
WI5 | ★★★ Patrì direttissima (central)
As above, then go for the middle pillar, if it formed that winter. | 250m, 5 | |||
3 | ★★ Acheronte
Further along than Patrì, with a long uphill approach. Also fairly busy. FA: M. Bisio, G. Caneva & G.C. Grassi, 1985 | 300m | |||
WI3 | Grand Val | ||||
WI6 | ★★★ Repentance Super
Cascade incontournable. Un degré 6 étalon ou seulement 5+? La cascade peu se gravir par chacun de ses flancs. Plusieurs relais sont maintenant en place. L1: 45m, grand mur soutenu, relais à droit (et à gauche !) dans le rocher (deux relais successifs à peu distance à droite) L2 : 30m, glace souvent travaillé, 90°, délicat, relais confortable dans la grotte à droite. L3 : 20m, traverser vers la gauche pour gravir par son centre le cigare terminal de ce premier ressaut, 15m à 90° (aérien), relais sur chaque rive. Le deuxième ressaut est rarement parcouru et c'est dommage, car l'escalade y est belle; il restitue à la cascade toute son ampleur. Il faut remonter le petit couloir pour attendre les deux murs terminaux. Rappels équipés. | 220m, 5 | |||
WI4 | ★★★ Monday Money
Ambiance assurée dans du "pas trop dur". L1 : 45m, 70°, relais a droite ou gauche. L2 : 40m, 85° et court passage a 90°. L3 : 35m, 60/70°. Rappels équipés | 180m, 3 | |||
Gran Paradiso Valeille | |||||
WI3 | ★★★ Pattinaggio Artistico
Classic route with short access (30m) FA: G.C. Grassi & N. Margaria, 1986 | 180m, 5 | |||
WI5 | ★★★ Pattinaggio Artistico Diretta
The direct start of Pattinaggio Artistic. Does not form every year. | 50m | |||
WI4 | ★★★ Hard Ice in the Rock
Another mega-classic. This is the top half of the waterfall, which is usually in solid conditions. For the bottom half, there are plenty of (hard) variations. FA: Bonzonnet, Garlon, Girodo, Grassi, Margaria & Philibert, 1986 | 300m, 8 | |||
WI5 | Stella Artice | 200m, 4 | |||
M6 | (In)Achevée Conception | 150m, 5 | |||
WI4 | ★★★ Cold Couloir
A great classic, and the longest route in Cogne. FA: G.C. Grassi, N. Margaira & M. Rossi, 1985 | 600m, 10 | |||
WI4 | ★★ Candelabro del Coyote
Popular classic route. FA: S. Calvi & G. Ghigo, 1986 | 150m, 6 | |||
WI4 | Tuborg
The first icefall from the walk in on the right (LHS facing the river flow) FA: G. Ghigo, 1986 | 200m, 7 |
Showing all 17 routes.