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Routes as ice in Val d'Aosta

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Gran Paradiso Val di Cogne, vallata principale
WI4 Parto gemellare

An icefall that develops right over the main road of the valley! P1 starts at the bottom of the avalanche protector "Lays" that covers that section of road. It's the hardest pitch, nearly vertical pillar with anchor on the left. Two easier pitches follow, but are not visible from the road. Virtually no approach. Please park you car sensibly as that road is quite trafficked.

Ice 150m, 3
Gran Paradiso Cogne/Lillaz
WI3 Cascate di Lillaz

A lovely introductory icefall, with a very short approach. It's equipped with lots of anchors along the way and can be curtained virtually anywhere.

Ice 250m
Gran Paradiso Valnontey
WI4- Patrì Left

Megaclassic, with many possible variations. Often crowded, to be avoided on the weekend. It forms rather early and also in relatively warm winters.

FA: G.C. Grassi & P. Marchisio, 1985

Ice 250m, 5
WI4 Patrì Right

Variation of the original Patrì (left). Same as above until the last section, then follow the pillar on the right.

Ice 250m, 5
WI5 Patrì direttissima (central)

As above, then go for the middle pillar, if it formed that winter.

Ice 250m, 5
3 Acheronte

Further along than Patrì, with a long uphill approach. Also fairly busy.

FA: M. Bisio, G. Caneva & G.C. Grassi, 1985

Ice 300m
WI3 Grand Val Ice
WI6 Repentance Super

Cascade incontournable. Un degré 6 étalon ou seulement 5+? La cascade peu se gravir par chacun de ses flancs. Plusieurs relais sont maintenant en place. L1: 45m, grand mur soutenu, relais à droit (et à gauche !) dans le rocher (deux relais successifs à peu distance à droite) L2 : 30m, glace souvent travaillé, 90°, délicat, relais confortable dans la grotte à droite. L3 : 20m, traverser vers la gauche pour gravir par son centre le cigare terminal de ce premier ressaut, 15m à 90° (aérien), relais sur chaque rive. Le deuxième ressaut est rarement parcouru et c'est dommage, car l'escalade y est belle; il restitue à la cascade toute son ampleur. Il faut remonter le petit couloir pour attendre les deux murs terminaux. Rappels équipés.

Ice 220m, 5
WI4 Monday Money

Ambiance assurée dans du "pas trop dur". L1 : 45m, 70°, relais a droite ou gauche. L2 : 40m, 85° et court passage a 90°. L3 : 35m, 60/70°. Rappels équipés

Ice 180m, 3
Gran Paradiso Valeille
WI3 Pattinaggio Artistico

Classic route with short access (30m)

FA: G.C. Grassi & N. Margaria, 1986

Ice 180m, 5
WI5 Pattinaggio Artistico Diretta

The direct start of Pattinaggio Artistic. Does not form every year.

Ice 50m
WI4 Hard Ice in the Rock

Another mega-classic. This is the top half of the waterfall, which is usually in solid conditions. For the bottom half, there are plenty of (hard) variations.

FA: Bonzonnet, Garlon, Girodo, Grassi, Margaria & Philibert, 1986

Ice 300m, 8
WI5 Stella Artice Ice 200m, 4
M6 (In)Achevée Conception Ice 150m, 5
WI4 Cold Couloir

A great classic, and the longest route in Cogne.

FA: G.C. Grassi, N. Margaira & M. Rossi, 1985

Ice 600m, 10
WI4 Candelabro del Coyote

Popular classic route.

FA: S. Calvi & G. Ghigo, 1986

Ice 150m, 6
WI4 Tuborg

The first icefall from the walk in on the right (LHS facing the river flow)

FA: G. Ghigo, 1986

Ice 200m, 7

Showing all 17 routes.

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