Routes as trad in Valtellina

Trad Riss

Tiro da proteggere in fessura-camino. Sosta su albero

Via di due tiri in placca di aderenza, non proteggibile fino al primo chiodo a circa 15 metri dalla base. Ottima per raggiungere la partenza di “Alba del Nirvana”

The first route opened in Val di Mello according to the Val di Mello guidebook published by Versante Sud (2004 edition).

The route is located a few meters to the left a river/waterfall descending from the mountains and it starts on the right side of a cave on a dihedral leading up to another cave.

1. 30m (5) Dihedral on the right side until you reach a terrace at the beginning of a cave or chimney like structure.

2. 25m (5+) A 2m vertical face towards the chimney (one piton), through the chimney. Belay on a tree after the chimney.

3. 25m (5) Follow the vertical cracks to the top.

Descend on foot to the left following a clear trail.

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/mello4/mello4.htm

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=958&id_tipologia=38

Overhang and then slabs. Take one middle friend

6b obbligatory in A1. Starts about 20m right of ARTEMISIA.

A combination of three routes, the first three pitchs of Forse si, forse no (Igor Koller, Peter Machai, Miro Piala, 1996) followed by Mellodramma (Gianni & Paolo Covelli, Silvio Fieschi, Fabio Spatola, 1989) up to the 15th pitch to then finish up Melat (Sonja Brambati, Adriano Carnati e Paolo Vitali, 1993).

6a A3.

6b A2.

6b A1.

6b A2.

Arrampicata tecnica su placche e muri di granito perfetto in ambiente da favola! Linea logica ed evidente che, nella parte alta, supera in modo astuto una fascia di tetti all’apparenza inaccessibile. Alcuni tiri sono stupendi! Le difficoltà omogenee e l’ottima chiodatura la rendono una delle vie più facili della parete. La salita è stata dedicata a Teo & Giò, amici ed Istruttori della Scuola di alpinismo “L. Pellicioli” del CAI Bergamo periti nel settembre 2021 sul Pizzo Badile.

More Info: https://scuolaleonepellicioli.altervista.org/relazioni/roccia/monte-qualido-via-impressioni-di-settembre/

Very slabby. First pitch full of moss.

This route is mostly climbed in combination with La Sfera di Cristallo which is located in the upper part of this sector.

Beautiful route following the dominant arc in the cliff of this rock formation.

The route starts on a slab section at the edge of the wood almost directly below the beginning of the dominant arc.

1. 50m (5c) Climb the slab up towards some bushes/trees until you reach a small wall just below the beginning of the arc. There is one old bolt and one piton at the anchor (can be reinforced).

2. 30m (5b) Step over the small wall to the left and climb the beautiful arched crack until you arrive at the left corner (some pitons in the crack, many good cam and nut placements available). There is a piton and an old bolt at the anchor (easy to reinforce with gear).

3. 15m (6a) Go around the corner, follow the horizontal crack to a ledge. Climb up a couple of meters to the right from there. It may be better to create an anchor here if the traverse is challenging for the followers (communication, rope management/drag).

4. 35m (4c) Climb the slabby top section pretty much straight up to the top. There are some bad bolts and pitons.Better to use the trees as anchors.

Descend on foot (go to the left until you reach a hiking trail) or rappel off.

Slab with run-outs, corners Pitches: 4 (45m), 5+ (40m), 5+ (35m), 7- (40m), 5+ (45m)

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=964&id_tipologia=38

On the left side/edge of S face.

Pitches:

7+, 6+, 6+, 5+, 6+, A1 (8), 5, 6, 5+, 3, 3

In left part of S face

Pitches:

6, 6+, 7-, 6, 6+, 6+, 6+ A2, rap, A1, 6+ A3, 7 A1, 7+, 3, 5+, 3

Along the east arrete

Pitches:

5, 6+, 3, 6+, 4, 6+, 5+, 5+, 7 A0, 5, 6+ A1, 4, 5+ A0

On the east face

Pitches:

3, 5, 4+, 4, 4+,5, 6, 3, 5+, 3, 3

On the arrete of the anticima.

Pitches:

5+, 4, 5, 6+, 6+, 5+4+, 7-, 6, 3

Set of cams up to nr 3 (B.D.). Four 10 mm bolts in the route. Fixed anchors. Nice athletic climbing mostly self protected.

Nice athletic climbing, mostly self protected. One set of cams up to nr 3 (B.D.). Nine 10mm bolts in the route. Fixed anchors. Abseiling through the route.

Nuts and cams up to nr 3 (B.D.) Two bolts in the route. Fixed anchors. Splendid slabs with big rocky mushrooms.

Nuts and cams up to nr 3 (B.D.), some bolts and pitons in the route. Fixed anchors.

6a obl. Nuts and cams up to nr 2 (B.D.). 10mm bolts in the route. Return through the route (or by foot on the ridge of Vecchia). Pitches 6a, 5c, 3c, 5b, 5c+. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

Pitches 5b, 5c+, 4a, 5b, 5c+, 6a, 5c+. Obligatory material: nuts and cams up to nr 2 (B.D:). 10mm bolts in the route, fixed anchors. Nice climbing with really nice slabs. Return through the route or by foot through the ridge of Vecchia. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

6b+ (6a+ obl). Pitches: 5a, 5c, 6b+, 5a, 5b, 6a, 5c+, 5c+. Mostly sportly protected. Take small and middle cams. Varied line with a difficult roof in the entry section (A1) and a fascinating crux in vertical, well-structured wall. Return through the route or by foot through Vecchia ridge. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

5c+ (5c obl.) Pitches 5c+, 3b, 4b, 3b, 5c+, 5c+, 5b. First four pitches sportly protected (10mm bolts, plaisir-type climbing), next three pitches going through vertical or slightly overhanging crack and have bolted anchors only. Take small and middle sized cams. One of the most popular routes in the area. Return through the route or by foot through the ridge of Vecchia.

Pitches 5b, 6b+, 4b, 3b, 5c+, 6c, 5b. Four bolts in the route, fixed anchors. Cams up to nr. 4 (B.D.), two sets of middle ones. Nice but a little unhomogenous line with demanding and self-protected crack in the upper part. Return through the route or by foot through Vecchia ridge. Source: Nichts als Granit, first edition, 2007

Some pitons in the route, anchors fixed or to be strenghten. Classical itinerary, frequently repeated. Return by the foot through the southwestern ridge of Punta Torelli to Porcellizzo pass.

Pitches V+, VI, V+, V-, V, V+, III. Belay stations fixed by piton and bolt, one more piton in the route. The route leads through prominent crack system. Take set of nuts and cams up to nr 3 (B.D.). Return through the route.

Pitches 5c, 5c+, 5c+, 5c+, 5c, 5a+, 5a+, 5c+, 4a. The route leads in granite slabs. Mostly protected by bolts, with limited possibilities for additional protection. Take some friends small and middle size. Return through the route.

Varied, pleasant climbing on the best quality rock. Take set of nuts and cams up to nr.2 (BD) and some pitons. Belay stations need to be self-build or reinforced. Some old pitons in the route.

Start is near the edge. Descent: from the top of the clff rise up on the ridge to the cairns and therewith to the belay through Guronsan route.

Take set of nuts and cams. The route is protected by 10 mm bolts, but with large runouts, usually three bolts per 50 m pitch). Start is on the right of Gugiatti. Belay through the route or continue four more pitches of Gugiatti to the top.

Take set of nuts and cams up to nr 2 (BD). The route is bolted in more or less regular intervals. Start on compact slab on the right of Gugiatti, left below a row of protruding roofs (bolts are not much visible). Descent: belay one rope and then through Complicazioni Collaterali route.

Take cams smaller and middle size. The route is bolted in almost regular distances. Start 50 m right from El Diablo, in a wall section marked by rock steps. The first belay station can be seen very high up, at the beginning of a relatively compact slab. Descent: belay through the route.

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