Routes as trad in Nagano / Toyama

The name translates as "Raccoon moonlit night"

The name translates as "A Place In The Sun"

C5-6 1-2set 0.75-2 1set 120cm sling and long quiqdrow

The location is a line that branches off to the right from the top of Shigure 5.10a (wide) and runs directly to the top of Otonosama Iwa main.

The name translates as "Jackpot Traverse"

Name translates as "Battery Chimney"

Use c0.5-c6 1-2set

Name translates as "Four Seasons".

The name translates as "Left-upper Crack"

The name translates as "Lightning"稲光

Name Translates as "Leaving the capital"

*NP

The name Translates as "Forest bathing"

anyway traverse it

Name translates as "Evil spirits of heaven"

Name translates as "Tehran north latitude 36 degrees"

Name translates as "People of Stars"

パズル

ケンケンの耳鳴り

The name translates as "Ringing in the ears of Ken Ken"

夏の日

*NP

*NP

*NP

*NP

Name translates as "The return of spring snow”

*NP

ホリデー

An enjoyable long outing, somewhat spoilt by the walks. The bolts have almost all been replaced, but you'll still need a light rack and a lot of slings. The flake on Pitch 5 takes a bomber Friend 4.

1. 5.7~ Pick a line up the slab. The first four or five lines from the left (up to and including the line that pulls up a neat white flake) are 5.6 - 5.8. Whichever pitch you choose to take, from the top-left of the slab, follow a path left to the start of the second pitch - a neat slim flake starting from the toe of the main slab.

2. 5.9 Layback the flake to the bolt at its end and traverse right along a dike. Smear up a white scoop to gain better holds and a ledge with two old trees and two spanking new chains.

3. 5.8 Climb the easy slab behind the belay to a steep corner, passing possible belays on the right and left. Climb the corner, then belay at a tree in a gully.

4. Scramble right up the gully then left across easy slabs to a wooded slope. This is very easy, but beginners may require a rope. Walk about 20m diagonally left to the base of pitch 5. (Note: Pitch 5 starts up a juggy slab left of a gully and heads to an obvious curving flake in a slab up and left. If you're standing below a scruffy wall heading into treed slabs, and the first runner is a peg, possibly with red tape on it, you're too far up and right.)

5. 5.9 Climb the easy slab for 10m to a steep section by a small tree. Pull up onto the next slab using a superb pocket, then continue to the big flake. Pull over this (crux) onto the top slab and continue to a big terrace. It is possible to make a 5.7 detour up the gully and crack to the right and to split the pitch at trees in the gully.

6. Make a scary step into the bottom of the bottomless gully (yes, I know) behind the belay then head up the gully to a good viewpoint on the ridge. Rope up as required.

7. 5.4 Meander up the sleeping slabs to the top - a great spot for a picnic. Rope up as required. Watch you don't drop any gear into the deep cracks.

To descend, ab off down the back (i.e. down the impressive face of the top pitch of Kaze to Tomo ni Sarinu). If you have two ropes, you can get down in one ab, but tie a knot in the rope and head left (facing in). A short scramble leads down to the path below Magga Slab. If you have one rope, ab to the anchor on the lower ledge below the steep face (the second anchor down - this is the top of Pitch 2 of Kaze to Tomo ni Sarinu) and ab again from here. Both abs are almost, but not quite, 25m.

A good steep crack pitch in a fine position, but the crack itself is sandy after rain. Take a set of Friends.

Climb the righthand line up the lower slab or the broken corner to a terrace on the right - possible belay. Follow the crack on good holds and gear to a lower-off.

A much underrated route. Perhaps people are put off by the appearance of the first pitch. Don't be - the second is a beaut. Take a rack.

1. 5.9 Climb a series of broken cracks and grooves up the centre of the first substantial face to belay on a sumptuous ledge below an arching thin crack.

2. 5.10d Pull into the thin crack by tricky, thin moves. Follow the crack up and left to a bolt. Pull over and trip tidily up the receding slab to belay.

To descend, ab the route.

The flake crack round to the left of Cassandra and just right of a grotty corner. Rack up, ditch the tinies and go heavy on the bigs.

Follow the slightly slanting handcrack all the way to a tree on the left. Holds on the left keep the climbing pleasant rather than thrutchy.

Ab off.

The crack to the right is a crumbly 5.10a with an appalling anchor.

An excellent 4-pitch route. Also well worth it if you do Koinuma-Yonekura Crack as pitch 4. Take a variety of Friends for the double cracks on the first pitch.

1. 5.10c Start where the slab starts to blend left and up into the hillside. Climb the slab to an arete. Hard moves up this lead to a sloping ledge on the right. Swing left to the base of twin cracks and climb these to belay at a tree.

2. 5.10a Step left, surmount a small overhang, then climb the slab above to a good ledge and belay.

3. 5.9 Climb the very short slab behind the belay to a big ledge below the final tower.

4. 5.11b Climb the centre of the face on the left to finish on the top of this particular part of the world.

A superb pitch! If you ever see this from below, you'll want to do it.

Descend by abseiling 50m down the back left face to where the gully becomes walkable then stumble back down to the start of the route. You can split the ab at one of the route's belays if necessary.

The shallow corner right of Tranquiliser has a nasty start. Pull out left from the corner to a big crumbly flake, then climb direct on big holds to a steeper section. Pull out right to a vague ledge, then go up and left to a bolt belay (as for Doushikai Route). The direct finish from the steeper section is 5.10c. Ab/lower off (60m rope required to get down in one).

First climbed in 1981 by Tomikazu Shinohara and Naoyuku Watanabe who are key figures in Ogawayama's climbing history. They established a route that is not only the most popular multi-pitch in Ogawayama, but also one of the most beloved in all of Japan. This is the perfect route for new multi-pitch climbers and one that every rock climber should try.

• Pitch 1, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 2, 5.8, 30m
• Pitch 3, 5.6, 25m
• Pitch 4, 5.8, 25m
• Pitch 5, 5.6, 10m
• Pitch 6, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 7, 5.8, 20m

Classic Finger Crack. The lines runs straight down the center of the main wall.

The name of the climb means "Spider silk".

Route Name means "I dropped a dead tree!"

Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou.

1. First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1.

2. Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts).

3. 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay.

4. Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

1. Face

2. Face-Slab

3. OW

4. Face-III

*NP

Another good long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route and featuring a cracking third pitch. The traverse on Pitch 2 can also be intimidating. Take a rack.

1. 5.6 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route - climb the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a tree on a good ledge. If possible, belay out of the corner (a party of two can use the shiny new bolts on top of the pinnacle on the right).

2. 5.7 From behind the belay, follow a traverse line right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the continuation crack and slab to a bolt belay on a good ledge.

3. 5.8 Step left from the belay and climb the slab to a prominent crack. Up this to another good ledge. The tricky lower section of this pitch can be avoided on the right. But you'll be knocking a star off the route

4. 5.6 Continue more easily up the slab to the spacious terrace.

5. 5.5 Wander back and right and pick a line up the easy slabs to the top.

Use 2set Cam and 3 quickdraw

Thin Finger Crack. Gear fr this route = RP #2~3, C3 #000, Rock and Roller #2~3. Death, Death, Death

The name translates as "Clown"

All along the Watch Tower