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Shibasaki Rock

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 12
  • Aka: 柴崎ロック

Seasonality

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A
M
J
J
A
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D

Summary

need to confirm location

Description

Routes are numbers 1~21 starting form the top of the hill going down

Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the chimney-like feature.

FA: Hideo Miyazaki (宮崎秀夫)

Start as for Mizō 1 but heads out left. Clipping the first bolt of Mizō 1 is advised.

FA: Hideo Miyazaki (宮崎秀夫)

Starts as for Mizō 2 then traverse left to the Jack Poison anchors.

FA: Shizuo Ujiie (氏家静男)

Bouldery moves. Don't escape right at the top.

FA: Tomoyuki Iezumi (家住友幸) & Hideo Miyazaki (宮崎秀夫)

Climb the right hand side of the arête.

FA: Jack Hotaka Nakane (中根穂高)

Climb over the small overhang and climb the right side of the face.

FA: Hideo Miyazaki (宮崎秀夫)

Short and hard.

FA: Kimio Satō (佐藤公男)

Take care at the top.

FA: Jack Hotaka Nakane (中根穂高) & Reiji Arayama (荒山礼志)

Juggy.

FA: Shizuo Ujiie (氏家静男)

Stemming route.

FA: Shizuo Ujiie (氏家静男)

From the arête climb to the crack, then finish out on the left face.

FA: Kenshichirō Morishita(森下健七朗)

The right arête is in.

FA: Shizuo Ujiie(氏家静男)

A technical route.

FA: Yuka Kobayashi(小林由佳) & Hideo Miyazaki(宮崎秀夫)

Good climb for beginners.

FA: Kenshichirō Morishita(森下健七朗)

Awkward.

FA: Shizuo Ujiie(氏家静男)

Stemming route.

FA: Maho Kobayashi(小林真秀)

Shares anchor bolts with Yūtōsei, but stay out of the groove of that route. The left arête is in however. Named after a Buddhist temple in Gunma Prefecture.

FA: Jack Hotaka Nakane(中根穂高)

Face climb.

FA: Hideo Miyazaki(宮崎秀夫)

Holds are facing in unhelpful directions.

FA: Shizuo Ujiie(氏家静男)

Juggy but friable. Name means free civil rights.

FA: Jacko Hotaka Nakane(中根穂高)

Climb direct up the face to join Jiyū Minken at its final bolt. Name means the incident in Chichibu.

FA: Jack Hotaka Nakane(中根穂高)

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Wed 7 Jun
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