This route can be done as 1 pitch, with a 60-meter rope, by climbing Free Willy into Tuna Roll. Clip the anchor of Free Willy with a long draw to prevent rope drag and continue straight up to the right angling crack. Start moving left, into the white rock, a few moves after clipping the 2nd bolt by the crack. Continue up into the scoop grab a quick tuna roll snack and prepare for the finish up and right.
This route is a variation of Hard Coral (5.12d), which continues straight up the crack to the almost blank overhanging face.
hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again.
Great climb with losts of thrill.
Start up Nanshi no Gonbee to the small roof, go over the roof and into the thin finger crack above. continue past the tree at half height and continue to follow the obvious crack line. The crack widens as you go from fist to O.W. size. BD C4 #3- 5 is required to protect the top section.
Start a couple of metres up and left of Hourouheki. Climb to the second bolt by fingery pulls and dodgy smears. Easier moves lead to the terrace. It's standard cowardice practice to pre-clip the first bolt from the jug 3m up Song of Pine.
Less frequented than the taller 5.12s to the right, but still a good route. The name means 'No name Gon-chan', or 'No name Gon', as Gon is a name used for many features in the local area.
