Nodes in Jordan

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

linea trad in fessura non chiodata con sosta a spit

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

approach to the base of the climb is easy through the crack on the right, its an interesting line through fragile rock, the anchor is between 6-8 meters away from the last bolt.

Belayer should wear a helmet. The 3 routes at this crag all climb over a very large and and hollow sounding dome with a visible crack full length crack along the top. Be very careful.

Also the rock here has many thin flakes which look very fragile.

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

A mixed multi pitch route of sport and trad. The first two pitches are bolted, the third semi bolted.

Pitch 1 - 5a Bolted climb up the flakes and then slightly right.

Pitch 2 - 5b Bolted traverse very delicately over flakes to the right over the crack before heading up the face delicately.

Pitch 3 - 5b bolted with a runout, Walk over to face and climb up left, you’ll need a sling or 2 on the runout between bolt 2 and 3.

Walk up the left around to reach the bolted slab

Pitch 4 - 3+

Pitch 5 - one powerful move (v3 boulder) then easy 5 to the top.

1 trad route

flies during the day and mosquitoes at night

4 multi pitch lines in the canyon

5b 6b 5c

6a 5b 6b+

5a 5b 6c+ 6a+: climb airyly to the first bolt

6a 5a 4b 6b 6a+

north faced but will still sun will hits few spot and the last pitch.

beautiful line, mixed between bolts and trad. very solid rock. abseiling notes : from the 4th anchor going down to the 3rd, go to the left not through the over hang its 40 meters long , then 3rd anchor there is only one bolt and two rings to go all the way down at least 50-60 meter long abseil

The crag rock type is conglomerate rock, a very interesting type of rock . it faces south face to sun all day. good for winter days but if there is no sun then the temperature drops !

You will pass by a military base, expect to be asked where you are going !

parking GPS 30.593674,35.633510 you need 4v4 car to drive the last 200 meter downhill

the second pitch is 6a and 18 meters high

The first anchor is destroyed, climb the route as one pitch 30 meters

the second pitch is 6a and 18 meters high

First part the rock is very bad but good quality upper part

You will pass by a military base, expect to be asked where you are going !

parking GPS 30.593674,35.633510 you need 4v4 car to drive the last 200 meter downhill

You will pass by a military base, expect to be asked where you are going !

parking GPS 30.593674,35.633510 you need 4v4 car to drive the last 200 meter downhill

The start could not be find . First bolt up by 8-12 metres

• Leave No Trace
• To bolt or not to bolt
• Respect local culture

It's been top roped before, no info about the grades

• Leave No Trace
• To bolt or not to bolt
• Respect local culture

Each pitch around 50m, starting left of a tree then trending right to a ledge, then up to the left side of the 'mouth'. Climb up to follow the left side of the 'nose' then right above the right 'eye' and the overhanging 'eyelid' to the summit slabs, left of the gully. Enjoyable and well-protected (bolts, threads and trad pro).

Descent Walk off to the NW, veering left and down a well-cairned fairytale-type rock garden where beautiful mosaic-type rock provides an added bonus to the day. (Would be a very nice scramble in ascent.)

• Leave No Trace
• To bolt or not to bolt
• Respect local culture

Location: Sig Bajeah or Baaga or Ba Ja is a dark slot canyon well known to locals in Little Petra. Without assistance, it may be difficult to locate this area. The rock is consistently the best quality I ever experienced in Jordan.

Three pitches. A really enjoyable route on excellent black sandstone which follows hand cracks interspersed with overhanging features sporting huge patina holds providing a fun excursion. Bolt belays. Descent Walk to the W (towards the valley) on a huge ledge then abseil to the ground.

• Leave No Trace
• To bolt or not to bolt
• Respect local culture

A good adventure; a striking N facing blunt arête goes in four 40m pitches with trad pro and on good rock to the summit.

Approach via the little valley where Little Petra is situated, their are Bedouin encampments and sheep herders everywhere and most will know the mountain by its name Jebel Alzrb.

Start a short ways from the stream bed up some easy slabs. The 2nd f6b pitch can be easily aided c0 to make it 5a.

Descent Initially easy to the S, down the far side to rappel anchors.

Plenty of potential

You need a full rack and especially size 5 on the 3rd pitch.

Bolted stations location : (30.21546, 35.41651)

Access: you go down from rajef village to this gpx point (30.21009, 35.41773) then go down on side canyon that's connect with atajra canyon untill reach this gpx point (30.21546, 35.41651) this is the start point for green shirt also.

P1: Shared pitch with green shirt you can use existing statio

P2: traverse after finish first pitch go direct left up to juniper tree (عرعر) you will find a thread behind crack

P3: Straight up you need size 3 can for crack little bit soft stone when you finish you will find bolt to traverse left for station and you will find thread behind crack

P4: Go back to crack or climb the face of crack you will find thread when you finish will find a column and 2 juniper tree use second one for station

P5: If you have enough experience you can just do it buy using short rope technics

After you just walk 15 min to car you will find in the way up old ruins

Locatedinrajefareawadialmaite in this location ("30°12′59.55′′N35°25′00.33′′E).

P1: Scrambling, you can use some protection, loose rocks be careful of people below.

P2: Good rockquality, you need normaltradrackyouwillfinda silverpiton5meterbelowstationenditwasamistakefrommetoputitonjustuseitifyou wantandcompleteup5meterforniceledge Thirdpitch:5c30metergrad5closerockinhardsectionafteryouwillfindanicecavethatyou canmakestationbehinditandcompletewalkingfromtheretoyourcarorcamp

Sandstone trad climbing in another world.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

6b or 5c A1.

Descent: Rappel "Boules Brunes".

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Small peak, excellent rock! it's the small mount series behind the rest house, just east of Wadi Sbackh.

From the car park follow the Jebal with lots of cairns from the south ridge all the way to the peak. Nice V2 boulder at the peak to reach the very top point.

Descent: Reverse the way or better continue down the north ridge to the shoulder above the col between Wadi Es-Sid and Wadi Sbakh (Rakabat Es-sid), then go back through Sbakh.

2-3 hours.

Topo: Howard guidebook #5.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #10.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #11.

Topo: Howard guidebook #12.

Topo: Howard guidebook #13.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #18.

Topo: Howard guidebook #19.

15 minutes north-west from the Rest House Camp in Rum.

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #26.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

The obvious crack in the north face of Abu Maileh Tower. Approach up Wadi S.Bach. A little harder than the guidebook grades.

1. Scramble up to a ledge with big boulders.

2. Awkward moves into a cave, pull through overhang with good holds.

3. Two grovely corners.

4. Slab then layback on sandy open holds.

Descent: 2 rappels, 50m each, down the right side of the route. 1st from big boulder on the right. 2nd from belay at the top of pitch 2.

Topo: Howard guidebook #28.

South face of Abu Maileh Tower, in front of the East Face of Jebel Rum. 15 minutes from the resthouse. The little tower, the "Camel's Head" (30 meter), can be clearly distinguished when looking from the campground of the resthouse. Walk up from between the farm and the temple.

Brilliant and hard short toprope routes on perfect rock. The belays of the routes ae bolted and can be easily reached by scrambling up the right corner to gain the ledge 15m above.

Topo and pictures.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Right hand variation.

West face of the little tower.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Above the Champs-Élysées ledge, they joined Ramedame (Remy-Remy, 1986) and followed this route for another six pitches (up to 6b) to the top. They placed 11 protection bolts on the new pitches and outfitted the belays with anchor bolts.

Article. Video. AAC article with topo.

#33

#32. Crazy exit.

#31.

#30. 6c or 6a A1.

#29

Loads of classic climbs a short walk from the village. Long, short, bolted or trad.

Very good overview topo.

Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable.

Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help.

Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m.

Route

• From the village head towards Jebel Rum and take the steps up to Lawrence’s well. Turn right in the minty area and head up the gully.
• After passing between large boulders, towards the top of the gully on the right hand side there will be a rock ramp heading up but facing down the gully (grade 3/4). Someone has also scratched an arrow into the face at the bottom. (Between 40 mins and 1 hour from the village.)

• Traverse the ledge and scramble up

  1. f5- large diagonal crack in the wall, 50m.
• From the shelf traverse a little bit to the right and then head up the plateau (Hammads ridge),look out for a repel station on your right as you climb.
• On the plateau, head left
• find a straight, long and narrow walled chimney/gully that heads to the great siq floor and descend.
• Go east through the great siq with a rappel and two short problems, 2nd being about f5 6m and unprotectable.

• After the 2nd problem you will be at the base of the eye (3 - 4 hours from the village).

  1. f5- wide crack about 50m.

  2. 50m, f5- starts with a tricky chimney

  3. 40m f4 climb the ramp

  4. traverse across to the base of the eye, f3.

  5. Pitch 5 of the main route, climb the slab (and or crack / chimney), in the guide book it is f3 however there are some very tricky sections, with maybe the hardest move of the route, 40m. You are now in the eye.

Descent.

Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here.

Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils.

For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html

Topo: Howard guidebook #57.

Topo https://www.emontana.cz/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/First-Kiss-TOPO.jpg The crux maybe easier than 7a.

#40

Probably the best rock on Jebel Rum. Starts some meter left of 'Towering Inferno'

Topo

Phototopo by Tobias Wolf

Gear

• 2x 60m Rope
• 14 Quickdraws
• 3x 1,20m Slings
• 3x BD Cams 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 or Metolius Mastercams 1, 2, 3

Source Arnaud Petit

#39. Extends Inferno all the way to the summit, finishing up the final huge chimney of 'Inshallah factor'.

#38

Independent line to the right of 'Revienta o barilla' and crosses 'Insh’Allah Factor' at about half-height. Source planetmountain.com

https://vagabondsdelaverticale.wordpress.com/2020/02/23/la-voie-du-coeur-au-wadi-rum/

Photo Topo shared by Tobias Wolf

#37