Climb starts inside Salman Zwaidh camp, please say hello to Musa who owns the camp before starting, he's a very nice man. The hole (Cave) is pretty obvious its on the north face of Jebel Hassani. Its north facing but got the sun form around 9-12 in the summer.
Gear
You'll need at least 10 quick draws for the last pitch along with normal trad. Double 60m ropes.
Time
8 hours.
f4+: Climb up through the awesome cave and pop out the top. Some in situ slings which you might not require depending on your path. Some hollow sounding threads. Scrambling up the cave entrance is pretty easy.
f4+: Don't head to the left corner. Walk across the plateau and try to eyeball the black streak which goes all the way to the top. This pitch could start anywhere as there are plenty of options.
f4: Climb on up cracks and features to another big ledge to reach the black face of the final pitch.
f5c+ 50m: Sustained undulating face climbing all the way on black rock, has around 10 very spaced out bolts with limited trad options in between. Top out to a bolt and thread.
Descent
The FAs describe a scramble left and a 30m repel, our version is a bit different.
Scramble left (East), 40m repel from bolt and piton.
Head west then short repel from thread.
From here there are 2 options.
snake your way down the way you came on broken ground to a full 60m repel from a big thread (tie knots) to the plateau next to the start hole.
Or easier
Head east following cairns to a gully which leads to the Siq um al Tawaqi with another long repel.
An impressive climb with a big feeling. Trad climb with some bolts.
Approach
On the north east corner of Jebel Al Hasani, east from hole to hole.
6a, 45m. Sustained. A line of 3 bolts at the base leading to a shallow corner, finger cracks to a good ledge. Bolted anchor with chain.
5b, 50m. Walk left a few meters to a slab with a bolt. Proceed up broken ledges passing a few more bolts. Ignore giant thread on the right, carry on for another 10m to another tatty thread under big overhang.
5c, 45m. Pull over the lip onto slab with hollow sounding holds with spaced bolts. Bolted chain anchor on the arete. Note this is the descent anchor that takes you down the main east face.
5c+, 30m, 7 bolts. Up the arete to bolted anchor.
5c, 50m, to the right 6 bolts up the crack.
Descent
Rappel back to top of P3 via 2 short repels, then down the main face in 3 longer rappels.
From Obeid's Bedouin Camp and facing the rocks behind his camp, this is located on the "Corner Crag" about a mile to the West (far side to the right of the rocks).
Approach: You can access the route by car from Disi village (15 min) or Rum village (20 min).
First pitch (5b) Nice quality sand stone crack with some face climbing (38m).
Second pitch (5b) Sandy chimney with awkward moves and small protection (20m).
Third pitch (4-) Easy stretch to the summit plateau (20m).
Descent: Head West to an easy traverse (30-40m) on the same face, Then descend down the back of the mountain following the rock cairns back to valley floor (easy walk 15 min back to base of the route). Option to park you car here (29.617757, 35.482987) then walk to the base of the climb.
