Showing all 7 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7b | ★★★ La Guerre Sainte
1
6c
2
6b+
3
6b
4
6b+
5
7b
6
6b
7
6c
8
6c+
9
7b
10
7b
11
7b
12
6a+
"We were a team of six: Benoit Robert, Philippe Batoux, Hervé Bouvard and I as the leading team, and Guy Abert and the Israeli Alon Hod in support. It took us five days, from November 12-16, with fixed rope to establish La Guerre Sainte (The Holy War, 7b+ Max, 12 pitches, 400m) on the east face of Nassrani North. We spent our nights at the Comfort Rest House, where people can find the topo. I am very enthusiastic about this new route, a 400- meter sport free climb in the desert of Wadi Rum, close to the Red Sea in South Jordan. This is an outstanding climb thanks to the special rock (the sandstone is sometimes more sand than rock) and the beautiful desert scenery. It’s like climbing on the moon! Particularly when you gain altitude, you have the feeling you are in another world: the valley with its yellow sand contrasts with the small red massifs. The colored, very sculpted rock requires a perfect concentration and technique. You are obliged to learn to use your whole body so as not to break a hold. It’s more than climbing on your feet. When it’s 5.12c, that’s not easy. This is not the hardest route in the world but, due to the quality of rock, the incredible shapes of the holds and the perfect verticality of the wall, it is one of the most singular. The route is well equipped with bolts and rings (special ones made by Petzl), but sometimes it’s run out enough to maintain the game of “Oops, here it’s really better I don’t fall.” Compulsory moves are not harder than 6c, and so attempting the route is possible for many climbers." (Arnaud Petit, France) Videos: 1. Sasha DiGuilian 2. Magnus Midtbø Gear
Route Bolted at hard moves. Slings in threads at easier moves.
Descent When rappelling from second pitch anchor to first pitch anchor, you must be careful that your rope doesn’t get stuck in the crack next to the first pitch. To achieve this, lower the rope until above the crack/ledge and have the rest of it tied and on you. Untie the rope and throw it away from the crack. Rappel until the ledge that has the first bolt of the second pitch and allow the other climbers to rappel to the first pitch anchor while ensuring the rope doesn’t get stuck in the crack. The other climbers can belay you while you down climb to the first pitch anchor. To get to ground, rappel out against the wall, not towards the starting point. FA: Arnaud Petit | 400m, 12 | |||
8a+ | Never Never Land
To the right of "Jihad". Shares 5th pitch with it. FFA: Avi Feinstein & Moty Alkalay FA: Avi Feinstein & Moty Alkalay (2017) | 400m, 12 | |||
Sandy Silence
between Guerre Sainte and Muezzin 13 quick draws, slings, two 60m FA: M. Dorfleitner & F. Freider, 2006 | 13 | ||||
7c+ | Dar al Salaam
Southeast face of North Nassrani small wall as "Jihad". Crosses "Muezzin" from left to right. FA: Aaron Black, Ben Firth, Jean Gamalovsky, Chris Kalous & Heidi Wirtz, 2007 | 320m | |||
7b | SE Diedre: Warriors of the Wastelands
1
6a
2
5+
3
5+
4
7b
5
5+
6
5+
7
5+
8
5+
9
6b
ED | 450m, 9 | |||
6a | The Warrior
1
6a
50m
2
5+
20m
3
5+
20m
The first three pitches of (SE Diedre: Warriors of the Wasteland) the above route A splendid climb in its own right. | 90m, 3 | |||
6a | ★★ Hiker Road
| 500m |
Showing all 7 routes.