★ Turkestanskiy ekspress 6a+

Start at the wide chimney on the right of the massif. Climb the chimney (poor pro but easy climbing), then step right to a ledge to avoid an overhang. Step left again and climb the crack to a few metres to a good ledge. To build a belay, use a crack in the rock wall after the ledge. Descend on the trail or by slinging a boulder on the (climber's) left of the ledge.

There were some dodgy ethics in the past (chipped and glued holds), but the crag is now being developed as a modern sport crag, with respect for trad lines.

There is still plenty of space on Tamgaly-Tas rocks. There is a place for sport routes, multipitches, and trad lines. If you live or travel in the area and decide to put a route:

• Use best materials available, i.e. stainless steel glue-in bolts and appropriate glue (Hilti Hit RE-500, Hilty Hit HY-200 or similar). The second option—expansion stainless steel bolts. If you don’t have access to suitable gear, please don’t bolt anything.
• Contact the locals - that is Kirill Belotserkovsky on Facebook or at kirill@steelinside.com - to discuss a sector and a line.
• Don’t bolt obvious cracks! Cracks could be done on gear, so consider doing them in the best style you (or those stronger than you) can.

If you don’t want to deal with drills, dust, and glue but want to join the process of development of the area, donate some money. One route costs approx $100, but you don’t need to transfer all the sum. Even a small donation will allow the locals to buy more bolts and set more safe routes.