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Nodes in Chon Kurchak Gorge

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Node
Chon Kurchak Gorge

TOPO STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION - If you visit the area feel please add Topos and further Informations!

Sector 1
Sector 1
5+ Rotoplaquette
6a Les Hommes en Noir
6b Bug's Delight

Description [Edit] Lovely crack on the left wall next to Al Moudi (Pj's Crew graffiti). Difficult but exciting start makes way for easier ground after several metres, continue to follow the centre of the wall (deviating left or right lowers the grade) and finish on the same belay station as Men in Black.

6b Al Moudi
6a La Bonne Affaire
4+ Silence en Tourne
4+ Renfougne
6c+ Marianne
6b+ Pinochio
6a Doc et Tibloc
5+ Marissa Fille sure
Sector 2

This is a small little outcrop of rock that is a little further up the canyon than Area 1. There are now 4 climbs here that can be done.

Sector 2
7a+ Amadeus' Project

This is a newly bolted line by Amadeus that is in the second area at Chongkurchak. It follows a perfectly vertical wall with very little feature. the first half has 4 bolts and the second half has only one (causing the R rating since if you fall at the 5th bolt you will most likely hit the ground from 10 meters up.)

The crux section is obviously the first half of the climb on the vertical face. The first bolt is quite low to keep the potential for a second line off to the right of the bolts up the arete, but you don't really need to clip it for this climb. There is also the potential to add an extra piece of protection in the tiny finger crack by shoving in a small cam or nut.

This climb is to the left of La Dalle A Didi in the second area at Chongkurchak.

There are 5 bolts to clip plus the potential for placing a small cam or nut between bolts 2 and 3. You may also feel like you need to protect the second half with more than just the one bolt that is there. There are places to put some trad gear in though so no worries. Good anchors at the top as well.

6c La Dalle a Didi

There were originally 4 bolts and then an anchor, but the first bolt has been chopped. This makes the climb a bit R rated as the second bolt (now the first bolt) is at least 6 metres from the ground and is not at a great spot for clipping. There is, however, a small crack where you could stick in a nut about 4 metres from the start. The crux is halfway up the climb at the (now) second bolt.

6a+ Dingo

2nd from the left at area 2

4c The Bypass

Basically this is just a simple trad line to get to the top of the second area at Chongkurchak. The "crux" is halfway up the climb. Its all super covered in moss, lichen, and dirt, so keep that in mind when placing your gear.

The route is to the right of Dingo in the second area. Follow the obvious easy looking line.

Sector 3 - Crocodile

This area has some great climbing. There are 10 routes to enjoy here. You will know you are in the right spot as there is a memorial plaque to a climber who died here a few years ago.

Sector 3 - Crocodile
4c Route 1

Another simple route that is a great warmup. Starts with a bunch of face holds, then you get a slightly smaller than the fist crack that you can jam up, and then it is back to easy face holds again.

5c Route 2

Simple climb. It may be a bit wet though in some spots.

5c Route 4

This route is unaccesable now due to a past death that looks like it resulted from a large Van sized boulder coming loose while being climbed on. All the bolts have been cut. Give it a try on free solo if you think its worth it...

5c Route 4

Another good simple route that may also be sketchy due to loose rock as mentioned in Route 3.

5c Route 5
6a Route 6

This is a nice little climb going up a solid prow. Holds are often smaller and less obvious than most of the other climbs in this area. Good route though!

5a Route 7

A nice easy climb to warm up on. This is also one of the only climbs here that you can protect with finger sized trad gear (and a couple larger pieces).

6b+ Route 8

The start is good and hard as it follows fairly similarly the start of a 6c to the right of it. Further up the climb the holds become quite small and there is a good amount of technical slab climbing/smearing. The top mellows out and then there are your anchors!

6c Route 9
4c Route 10

Another good route to bring beginners to. Almost like walking up a cracked staircase.

Sector 4- The Mirror

The Mirror is an area further up the canyon than the other 4 areas. It has the hardest climbs at the crag. There are 5-7 climbs on this wall and all of them are rated between 6c and 7b. This wall is called "The Mirror" because the top section is overhanging and quite blank.

There are bolts all the way up to the chains. The protection is pretty close together. You should plan on taking 8-10 quickdraws.

Sector 4- The Mirror
6c - 7b Route 1
6c - 7b Route 2
6c - 7b Route 3
6c - 7b Route 4
6c - 7b Route 5

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