Pretty epic! The non-eliminate felt massively run-out in one spot. Balancy top part with the right-hand edge. After not climbing on sandstone for some time I wasnt used to these tiny, sloping footholds. Grade at the time was 7a.
First time that I climbed this kind of slab (Low angle, tiny holds). Chest to wall feels weird but works. Difficult to tell where the route goes in the overhanging jug finish into chimney. Revolver draw useful to prevent ropedrag for toprope cleaning.
Really deserves the two stars in the guidebook. Fun first crux, a rare Berdorf run-out and another harder crux that is hard to reverse once you're in it. Only just did it. On the harder side of 6c+. At least for onsighting.
Awesome route! 3rd go send. Low end 7b if you're tall.
Beta (Mostly to remind myself): First cruxreachy and awkward but easy enough to still do it. Crucial foothold beta by Steffen: Foothold 10cm above the big undercling jug for the left foot for matching the edge. Right foot far right to shift sideways to the first hole. Mediocre foothold for the left and high foot way out right to push left to the 2nd hole. That hole (the smaller, hourglass shaped part of it) with left index and thumb, turned in, standing on the edge matched before w/ the left foot and reaching up w/ right hand to a decent rail. Dyno with high right foot and going with the left. Almost fell after sticking it. 2 more jugs to the anchor. #sportRP
- with
Katrin Bauer