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Gua Sami/Gua Cenderawasih

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 61

Seasonality

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Summary

This crag is also an access point to a man made hiking trail up to Gua Cenderawasih.

Description

This crag can be easily spotted with a big "Gua Cenderawasih" sign on the main entrance of the public park. Routes can be easily spotted on the wall along the signboard, routes exist on both sides of the signboard.

Ethic

Beware of the monkeys around this park, they will try to steal your stuffs especially food or something they thought is food. To avoid this is to not feed the monkeys at the first place. Then try to keep your stuffs close to you to avoid getting steal by monkeys. You might also find yourself in the centre of the spotlight as local park visitors may stop by to check out what you're up to climbing so high up the wall.

History

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Gua Cenderawasih is also known as Gua Sami (which translated as Monk's Cave). A monk was frequently spotted meditating inside the cave in the late 90's for a few year. Hence the name Gua Sami.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb up the boulder on the left side, clip the sling on the wall then climb onto the wall. Tough move from clip 2-3, then traverse to the right with a scary long runout (they will be putting in a new bolt soon to halve this runout), traverse to the right with a crack climb to the anchors.

Just to the left of the Brother 1. Start at the right side of the left-most entrance of the cave. Overhung climbing up the cave entrance then above it.

There are 3 easy routes called the 3 brothers, they are all located besides each other. At the northeast corner of the playground and just left of the Gua Cendarwasih sign is Brother 3, left of that is Brother 2 and the most left is Brother 1.

Easiest among the 3 brothers.

Beginning part is quite exposed for beginner climber, climb cautiously.

Crawling through the crux before the 2nd clip makes you feel like a cat.

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Sat 27 May
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