Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
E3 5c E3 5c | ★★ Raiders of the Lost Aardvark - with Daniel | 20m | Comino | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Sep 2016 | ||||
My first E-grade trad route! Placements were good in the upper part for smaller cams and there's a good thread on the ledge at the start, taking away much of the fear. But still, I was quite nervous overall. Beautiful route in a great location, too!
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★ Toledo's Triumph - with Daniel | 15m | Malta | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Cool start, easy to protect, the upper part is less interesting.
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4c | ★★ Wankers Wall | 7m | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 31st Jul 2017 | ||||
a definite must do. it was a walk but did it for the name
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6b E2 5c | ★ Ċikka (Cikka) | 10m | Malta | Average | Thu 3rd Aug 2017 | ||||
Well you have to pray, but not to reach the hand hold. But to avoid getting an infection from pigeon feaces in the crescent. If there are no pigeons watch out there might be a maltese black snake. that is what the locals said
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MVS 4b 4c | The Diamond Facet | 22m | Malta | Average | Fri 4th Aug 2017 | ||||
this was the second time we almost got shot at by hunters. highly recommended to wear bright clothes.
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E1 5b E1 5a | ★★ Civilian Route I | 30m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
My first E1! was done by mistake because Mark Sansone had a wrong drawing. Thanks for the sandbagging Mark!
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Earth Quake Corner | 35m | Malta | Fri 12th Mar 2021 | |||||
Nice route and some bold moves.
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Antivaxxers Unite | 24m | Malta | Thu 23rd Dec 2021 | |||||
no mental game. need to keep practicing
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VS 4c | ★★ Antivaxxers Unite | 24m | Malta | Thu 23rd Dec 2021 | |||||
Working the moves and gear, trying to imagine how to send it on lead.
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E1 5a | ★★ Spiny Norman | 28m | Malta | Wed 29th Dec 2021 | |||||
Quite a bold line
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S 4c S 4c | ★★★ Commando Ratlines | 30m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Wed 29th Dec 2021 | ||||
Beautiful line with amazing gear
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Asinine Ascension | 15m | Malta | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||||
Checking gear and moves.
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Shallow Groove Route | 15m | Malta | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||||
potential ground fall
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S 4b | ★ Noni | 23m | Gozo | Sun 2nd Jan 2022 | |||||
Checking moves and gear
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | Trad Bastards In Vegas | 18m | Malta | Tue 4th Jan 2022 | |||||
HAppy I went for it and didn't give up and got my first first ascent
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E1 5b | Pastizzi Connection | 22m | Malta | Tue 4th Jan 2022 | |||||
Will come back to red point it.
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ Left Crack | 22m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jan 2022 | ||||
Learning gear and moves. will return for the red point.
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HVS 5a ~E1 Hard | ★★ A Scoopy-Do | 22m | Malta | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | |||||
Quite sustained. I will return for the red point.
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E1 5a E1 5a | ★★ Pockpicket | 12m | Malta | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | |||||
Ran it out in the crux. but still a flash and relatively good composition for the rest of the climb. improvement from the former E1.
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ Left Crack | 22m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Jan 2022 | ||||
Beautiful Classic! went really smooth.
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Antivaxxers Unite - with Mark Sansone | 24m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jan 2022 | ||||
Really nice trad line. Finally redpointed
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E1 5b | ★★ Minato - with Mark Sansone | 16m | Malta | Wed 2nd Feb 2022 | |||||
performed badly but I think I can work on it and send it. protection sub optimal.
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S 4b S 4b | ★★ Comba - with Mark Sansone | 17m | Malta | Wed 2nd Feb 2022 | |||||
Cool route
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Tumbler - with Mark Sansone | 16m | Malta | Wed 2nd Feb 2022 | |||||
Mega fun, and thanks to Mark Sansone for pushing me to do it
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HVS 4c HVS 4c | ★★★ Idiots wall | 15m | Malta | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||||
Pumpy Pink point. bad attempt. will continue in the future working on this line.
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★★ Anglu Crack | 15m | Malta | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||||
Couldn't place a second piece of gear to protect ground fall, backed off.
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★★ Anglu Crack | 15m | Malta | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||||
Tried to pink point with the gear in. went quite bad and in the end had to pull on the anchor
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★★ Anglu Crack | 15m | Malta | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||||
Despite a general bad feeling I racked up and gave it my best go. Red point completed! beautiful awkward off-width line.
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6b ~7a+ | ★★ Man Saturday | 22m | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 14th Mar 2023 | ||||
It's a 7a/+ sport route
(according to the local guide book and my experience)
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HVS 5a | ★★ Topkapi - with MCC | 25m | Malta | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | ||||
Now bolted so a sport climb route
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S 4b | ★★ Swiss Kiss - with ch. Müller | 30m | Malta | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Nov 2023 | ||||
Zweihundert Meter links der Höhlen wurde ein neuer Sektor mit Titanbolts eingerichtet. 6 Wege 20 Meter lang alle ca.4a
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E3/4 6a ~5c | ★★★ Kerbside Warrior - with Marco Nikolic | 20m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Dec 2023 | ||||
Only rested once at the crux, then led the rest clean.
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E1 5a Hard | ★★ Bird Brained | 22m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Dec 2023 | ||||
It is well bolted.
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E1 5a | ★★ Spiny Norman - with Andy Warrington | 28m | Malta | Sun 14th Jan 2024 | |||||
Finally a perfect ascent, clear and quiet, attention to every body position and near perfect execution.
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VS 4c | ★ Leftways Crack - with Andy Warrington | 28m | Malta | Sun 14th Jan 2024 | |||||
First trad lead of the season, felt highly insecure.
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HVS 5a | ★★★ Unknown Soldier - with Andy Warrington | 10m | Malta | Tue 16th Jan 2024 | |||||
Very nice historic route. Slightly overhanging. was engaging for the body & Mind.
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HVS 5a ~E1 Hard | ★★ A Scoopy-Do | 22m | Malta | Thu 18th Jan 2024 | |||||
Finally! Felt still like an E1 for me. The runout is exciting and the crux section is bold.
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E1 5b | ★ Crackers - with Andy Warrington | 22m | Malta | Thu 25th Jan 2024 | |||||
My first Onsight for the grade. Very nice ascent
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E2 5b | ★ Cracking up - with Andy Warrington | 22m | Malta | Thu 25th Jan 2024 | |||||
Lost a lot of time trying to place better gear in the overhang. After many climbs up and down, got too pumped had to take a small fall on a red tricam. Turns out it was a bomber And marking my first fall on gear I placed.
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MVS 4b | The way of the dragon - with Andy Warrington | 18m | Malta | Thu 25th Jan 2024 | |||||
Could be cooler if the crack would be cleaned out of vegetation Then a more straight variation could be possible.
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HVS 5b | ★★ Marmalade | 14m | Malta | Sun 28th Jan 2024 | |||||
Top roped to learn the gear placements. Really cool hands jams at the crux!
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S 4b | Graffiti | 15m | Malta | Sun 28th Jan 2024 | |||||
Nice route
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HVS 5b | ★★ Marmalade | 14m | Malta | Tue 30th Jan 2024 | |||||
While Jamming in the crack during the crux, a rat started crawling on my hand. took a whipper and then 3 more rats came flying out of the crack...
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E1 5b | ★★★ Leon Odelot Factum Est - with Andy Warrington, Mark Sansone | 22m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
Very cool and bold line, You need proper crack climbing technique to get yourself into the dihedral. Amazing!
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HVS 5a | Toqbi (holey) - with Andy Warrington | 22m | Malta | Tue 6th Feb 2024 | |||||
All Gear sizes were a bit off. Potential zipper if you mess it up in the crux. Managed but it was engaging.
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E3/4 6a ~5c | ★★★ Kerbside Warrior | 20m | Malta | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | |||||
Probably climbed a different bottom through easy terrain left od origin.
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HVS 5b | ★★ Marmalade | 14m | Malta | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | |||||
Lush vegetation.
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E1 5b | ★★★ Biċċa Kejk (Piece of Cake) - with Martin Bulko | 18m | Gozo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Direct version. Straight up to the jugs. Absolutely epic route.
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Sport | |||||||||
5c 5c+ | ★ Dirty Girls - with Kara | 25m, 11 | Gozo | Tue 17th Apr 2018 | |||||
Bolt number 4 could me moved around by hand, so a scary retreat...
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5c 5c+ | ★ Dirty Girls - with Andrea Z | 25m, 11 | Gozo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jan 2022 | ||||
Phu, hab's mir leichter vorgestellt zum Ausklettern.
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6b 6a+ | ★★★ Stavrovski - with Fabio | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Kletterei eindeutig classic, aber ich möchte alles nur mit Samthandschuhen anfassen 😬
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6b | ★★★ Stavrovski - with Mark Sansone | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Feb 2022 | ||||
warm up to red point and then came the rain
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6a+ | ★★★ Stavrovski - with Edi, Steph W., lilami, VMS | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | ||||
Endurance route, rather pumpy. All the flakes held, but I would be lying if I said that I didn’t expect one or two holds to blow XD. Luckily everything held, but climb with care. Awesome route nonetheless.
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5c ~5b | ★★ Foreign Interference | 24m, 11 | Malta | Sun 7th May 2023 | |||||
Very nice route. I found it easier than Monica
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6a+ | ★★★ Stavrovski | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Sustained and EXCELLENT route, had a blast on it. Best route in Malta!
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6a+ ~6b | ★★★ Stavrovski | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th May 2024 | ||||
Long sustained, slightly overhang, could be 6b with this level of pump. Sneaky knee bar available but not needed
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6a | ★★ Denny - with Max | 25m, 10 | Malta | ★ Good | Sun 18th Sep 2016 | ||||
Two interesting slab passages, quite homogenously easy otherwise. Thanks Max for belaying me!
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5b | ★★ Karma e Gesso - with Nadja | 24m, 10 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Sep 2017 | ||||
The reason why we top roped this was that two days before two guys were rebolting the route "Exposure" and the bolts in "Karma e Gesso" looked "fresh", too, so we used the anchor of Forein Interference..
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6a | ★★ Denny - with Nadja | 25m, 10 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Sep 2017 | ||||
Had to rest half way through. I really regret not doing a second attempt on this one.
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6b | ★★ 2 Blind Mice | 28m, 10 | Malta | ★ Good | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
12 out of 30 - 6B or higher challenge
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5c+ 6a | ★ All the Thyme in the World | 28m, 10 | Malta | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | |||||
did the right side variation. so only 5C+ for me.
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6c+ | ★ Crazy Frank - with Fabio | 19m, 10 | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Eine äußerst schwierige Crux. Morpho. Dadurch leider Abwertung...
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6b+ | ★★★ The Flying Arete | 24m, 10 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 25th Mar 2022 | ||||
Hard
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6a | Ecopoint ★★ Denny | 25m, 10 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Thu 22nd Dec 2022 | ||||
Two cruxes, first one quite difficult for 6a
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6a | Ecopoint ★ All the Thyme in the World | 28m, 10 | Malta | Average | Mon 26th Dec 2022 | ||||
Rock is really sharp, route not that interesting
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6b+ | Ecopoint ★★★ The Flying Arete | 24m, 10 | Malta | Mon 20th Feb 2023 | |||||
Nice boulder
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5b | Ecopoint ★★ Wall Climb / Monica | 24m, 10 | Malta | Mon 20th Feb 2023 | |||||
Multi pitch feeling. Nice
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6b+ | ★★★ The Flying Arete — 2 attempts | 24m, 10 | Malta | Sun 7th May 2023 | |||||
Took me a while to figure out the sequence which is off-balance, powerful, small holds and hard, but went well in the send attempt.
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7b+ ~7b | ★★ Omicron Variant — 5 attempts | 25m, 10 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
very nice route with a hard moove over the first ledge.
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6b ~6a+ | ★ Alpha Variant | 25m, 10 | Malta | Average | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
nice route nothing special. powerful moves
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6b+ | ★★★ The Flying Arete - with nicola, Mark Sansone | 24m, 10 | Malta | Sun 15th Oct 2023 | |||||
Finally!
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6a | ★ All the Thyme in the World - with Malwina | 28m, 10 | Malta | Sun 26th Nov 2023 | |||||
Attempted but lost my nerve half way up as had taken a fall earlier in the day
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6c Hard | ★ Crazy Frank | 19m, 10 | Malta | Average | Sun 5th May 2024 | ||||
Morpho crux , second half of the crux good, but could not move in full iron cross
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6b+ | ★★★ Two in the Stink | 25m, 9 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | ||||
Technical and hard crux between 3rd and 4th bolt. Super beautiful climbing!
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6b+ | ★★★ Two in the Stink | 25m, 9 | Malta | Mon 21st Mar 2022 | |||||
--Spoilers-- Definitelly harder than 6b+ in the topo. Crux moves probably v5 on tiny footholds feature 2 monos 1 two-finger hole and some crimps, at best 10mm deep. Rest of the route is ok for the grade.
2nd Go |
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5a | Ecopoint ★★ Acida | 23m, 9 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Dec 2022 | ||||
Really nice bolting!
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6b | ★★ Will It Stay Or Will It Go? | 19m, 9 | Malta | Thu 11th May 2023 | |||||
Cool route but brittle rock!
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6b+ | ★★ Shaggydelic | 20m, 9 | Malta | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
fits the grade, great hoolds big moves
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6b+ 5c | ★★ Viva il Capo (The Flying Arete) - with Martin Gropp | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Sep 2016 | ||||
Boils down to a single hard move, but it's still pretty solid overall.
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6b+ 5c | ★★ Viva il Capo (The Flying Arete) - with Martin Gropp | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Sep 2016 | ||||
Great, smooth start up to the stance at about 18 m (5c) and a great line along the arête to finish it off.
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6c | ★★★ Tufa Baroque - with Daniel | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Mar 2017 | ||||
Really nice little route, that kept me thinking.
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7a | ★★ Tufa Baroque Direct - with Vanessa | 12m, 8 | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 14th Mar 2017 | ||||
Yet another failed 7a onsight attempt and another stupid rope wrecking anchor...
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7a 5c | ★★ Viva il Capo (The Flying Arete) | 16m, 8 | Malta | Thu 3rd Aug 2017 | |||||
Two holds from Crux Broke
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6b+ 5c | ★★ Viva il Capo (The Flying Arete) | 16m, 8 | Malta | Sat 16th Dec 2017 | |||||
Rotpunkt nach ausbouldern der Crux gut möglich
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6b+ 5c | ★★ Viva il Capo (The Flying Arete) - with Dennis S. | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Mar 2020 | ||||
One unneccessary hang
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6b | ★ Chimney Exit | 5m, 8 | Malta | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jan 2020 | ||||
Beautiful thin exposed stem out of the chimney and traverse to the anchor
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6b+ 5c | ★★ Viva il Capo (The Flying Arete) - with Martina | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 27th Dec 2021 | ||||
Nice warmup in the first part then a cool bohldery finish, lovely!
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6b+ | ★★ The Flying Aerate | 16m, 8 | Malta | Wed 23rd Feb 2022 | |||||
Came off the arete and fell backwards on my back
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6c | ★★★ Tufa Baroque | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 22nd Mar 2022 | ||||
Extend fifth quickdraw to reduce drag.
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6a+ | ★★ Hug the Ufa | 15m, 8 | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Mar 2022 | ||||
Extend third and fourth quickdraw to reduce drag. Very hard to collect quickdraws.
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6b ~6b+ | ★ Chimney Exit | 5m, 8 | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 30th Jan 2023 | ||||
I would say the boulder crux could weigh in at about 6A/+ Font grade (it's very morpho, I barely reached it with 184cm armspan) and for shorter people I think this route could easily be 6c/+ or more as the intermediates are quite thin.
Based on that, I conservatively suggest a personal upgrade to 6b+ based on the general formula of bouldery routes being Font grade + 3. |
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6c | ★★★ Tufa Baroque — 2 attempts | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | ||||
Excellent moves - all of them equally hard!
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6a+ | ★★ Hug the Ufa | 15m, 8 | Malta | ★ Good | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | ||||
Kind of confusing, and easy to get stuck by going too high into the cave.
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5c ~5b+ | ★★ Viva il Capo | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th May 2023 | ||||
Lovely multi-finger pinches! Such an awesome route
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6b | ★ Chimney Exit | 5m, 8 | Malta | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||||
Very sharp rock
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6a | ★★ Smooth Belgian Chocolate | 18m, 8 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
Technical section in the middle
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5b | ★★ Shredded Tweet - with Teresa | 22m, 7 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | ||||
Unclear line halfway up, but very nice warmup.
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6b | ★★ A Pocket full of Poses - with Vanessa | 25m, 7 | Gozo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Mar 2017 | ||||
Warm up. Awesome pockety goodness!
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6a 6b | ★★ A Pocket full of Poses | 25m, 7 | Gozo | Crap | Fri 4th Aug 2017 | ||||
well it is not worth even doing. and the top part burns your rope. I had to cut a mere 2metres from it. Route is easy for the grade
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5b | ★★ Shredded Tweet - with Nadja | 22m, 7 | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 19th Sep 2017 | ||||
Not sure how to tick this. I got confused and moved to the right in the middle, so I ended up doing the second half of Monoerone
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