Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6c |
★★★ Plunder
- with
Martina
1
5c
2
5c
3
6a+
4
6c
| 77m | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Dec 2021 | ||||
Couldn't get to the bottom plattform because of rough sea, prusicked back up to skip the first pitch. Slabby and beautiful climb for the other pitches!
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6c |
★★★ Greek Odyssey Direct
- with
Martina
1
6a
18m
2
6a+
12m
3
6c
25m
| 55m | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 31st Dec 2021 | ||||
Traverse goes around a small block and you can't see the next bolt around it but there is one right around the corner. If you go up too early you end up at the first belay of prism.
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5+ |
★★ Lupo Alberto
- with
Lenka
1
4+
30m
2
3+
17m
3
5+
24m
| 71m | Malta | Fri 2nd Feb 2018 | |||||
In trainers and started raining so we retreated before last pitch
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7b+ 8a | ★ Black Magic Woman - with Dick Wankerton | 28m | Malta | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2017 | ||||
Good route,very nice pumpy
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7b | ★★ Tropical Sunshine - with Daniel | 20m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | ||||
Felt easy for the grade. Hard bit in the end. Very nice start on good, but slightly sandy holds.
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7b | ★★ Creeper - with Daniel | 15m | Gozo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Sep 2016 | ||||
Great moves on small pockets along a trace of vertical slits, most of which are unsuitable as holds, except for the two in the crux. The fixed carabiner doesn't close properly anymore and the sling doesn't look good, so better use your own gear.
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7a+ Easy | ★★ Variante Emilio | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | |||||
nice bottom moves and the final top part is a bit tricky
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7a+ 7a | ★★★ Dark Ways - with Daniel | 22m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Sep 2016 | ||||
Awesome route starting with a nice little boulder up onto the ledge and then sustained climbing. Great move on a mono undercling.
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7a | ★★ Vine Cave - with Daniel | 12m | Gozo | ★ Good | Wed 21st Sep 2016 | ||||
Quite easy for the grade, but with cool moves in the beginning.
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6b 7a | Outer Dark | 18m | Malta | Average | Sun 7th May 2017 | ||||
steep,large holds
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7b 7a | ★★★ Wot's in It for Me? (Wotz in Matilda) | 20m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th May 2017 | ||||
Crimp after crux sharp,but awesome route overall
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7a | ★ Barbarossa | Gozo | Average | Fri 28th Apr 2023 | |||||
On two places there are ropes instead of bolts, so it was a bit scarry
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7a/a+ | Le Bonheur Des Doigts | 18m | Malta | Wed 12th Jul 2023 | |||||
all soil came to my eyes in the hole, I couldn't see 10 seconds but I keep fighting.
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E3/4 6a ~5c | ★★★ Kerbside Warrior | 20m | Malta | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | |||||
Probably climbed a different bottom through easy terrain left od origin.
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6c+ | ★★ Shock the Monkey - with Daniel | 15m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Cool "monkey start" followed by a technical section over the bulge.
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6c+ | ★★ Crimp on a Rose - with Charlie9400 | 21m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | ||||
Just got it. Maybe a little soft for grade. it's reachy, I got some reach. Make your own mind up. Great climb. A little loose. Placed draws no beta, never looked at it. Limestone pleasure.
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6c+ | ★★★ 1500m (1500 metres) | 18m | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th Mar 2022 | ||||
Soft
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6c | ★★★ The Lord of the Underclings - with Christoph Rauch | 13m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Sep 2016 | ||||
Hilarious! There's literally nothing but underclings.
|
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6c | ★★ Singing Daughters - with Daniel | 15m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Boulder start on tufas into good pockets, one of my favourites here.
|
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6c | ★★★ Tufa Baroque - with Daniel | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Mar 2017 | ||||
Really nice little route, that kept me thinking.
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6c | ★★ Flutter By - with Vanessa | 12m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Mar 2017 | ||||
Not a bad warm up, if you know where to go. Couple of damp holds made it tricky to onsight though.
|
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6c | ★★★ The Lord of the Underclings - with vanessa | 13m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Mar 2017 | ||||
These routes should really be extensions of the bottom routes or something, as its quite hard to follow what route is what. This has rad moves though, good fun, linking the 2 as one pitch.
|
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6a+ 6c | ★★ Flutter By - with Gesmond Grech | 12m | Malta | Thu 6th Apr 2017 | |||||
Rusty bolt midway,nice moves
|
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6c | ★★★ Predator - with Charlie9400 | 18m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Aug 2018 | ||||
Pumped to (just) get this as a genuine onsight. Without beta. Placing draws. And only a little chalk marking left behind from previous climbers. Many thanks to Charlie for today. An epic experience.
|
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6c | ★★★ The Lord of the Underclings - with Nicolo, Charlie9400 | 13m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Sep 2018 | ||||
Awesome route. Maybe a touch soft for the grade. Depends if you have experienced underclings before... A genuine red point onsight. Stoked to get it. Thanks Nicolo Gatti for bolting this climb. And thanks Charlie for the catch.
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6b+ 6c | ★★★ Fireworks Factory (Name Pending) | 20m | Malta | Wed 17th Mar 2021 | |||||
18 out of 30 - 6B or higher challenge - Amazing Route!
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6c | ★★★ Weight of Freedom - with Anna Gre | 35m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Oct 2021 | ||||
Overhanging Abseil to start point just above the sea, spectacular! All 3m bolts. The abseil is a bit scarry because the bolts are directly on the edge.
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6c | ★★★ Soldier Blue | 35m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Jan 2022 | ||||
Bottom half is overhanging with nice and big holds, top part is vertical/slabby with beautiful technical climbing.
|
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6b+ 6c | ★★★ Spunky Arête | 16m | Gozo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Jan 2022 | ||||
Easier variation, using the right wall. Beautiful climbing, feels very exposed.
Can use then anchor as a rappel point aswell saving you from the traverse but make sure you extend the anchor otherwise there will be a lot of rope drag!
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6c | ★★★ Tufa Baroque | 16m, 8 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 22nd Mar 2022 | ||||
Extend fifth quickdraw to reduce drag.
|
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6c | ★★ Eligo Letxorrea - with Ella De Bono | 17m, 7 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st Mar 2023 | ||||
Wet, sharp but beautiful 🤩
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E3 5c E3 5c | ★★ Raiders of the Lost Aardvark - with Daniel | 20m | Comino | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Sep 2016 | ||||
My first E-grade trad route! Placements were good in the upper part for smaller cams and there's a good thread on the ledge at the start, taking away much of the fear. But still, I was quite nervous overall. Beautiful route in a great location, too!
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6b+ | ★ Passion Paradise - with Teresa | 18m | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | ||||
Felt relatively hard at the end of the day. Cool rest position in a big hole. Sharp holds afterwards.
|
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6b+ | ★ Turning Four - with mantra | 20m | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 13th Sep 2016 | ||||
Reachy surprise at the top!
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6b+ | ★ Bubu Chungo - with Daniel | 14m | Malta | ★ Good | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | ||||
Steep and juggy, but damp holds …
|
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6b+ | ★★ Le Droga Le Haxixa - with Vanessa, Daniel and Becky | 16m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Feb 2017 | ||||
First route in Malta, straight off the plain and nice little introduction! Cool moves and features and no goveaway at the grade.
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6b+ | ★★★ Snatch - with Vanessa, James | 21m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Mar 2017 | ||||
Absolute classic at the grade! Great warm up. Steep and pumpy for the grade also.
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6b+ | ★★ Mr. Boombastic - with Vanessa | 20m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Mar 2017 | ||||
Really quite good and pretty steep at the grade, but a little rope drag from the top.
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6b+ | ★★ Moby Dick Right Hand - with Vanessa | 24m | Gozo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th Mar 2017 | ||||
Every route i have done here has been just awesome! This was no exception. Did it a second time to clean it.
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6b+ | ★★ Motorpsycho | 45m | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Oct 2017 | ||||
One of the best I've climbed so far
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6b+ | ★★ Little Red Riding Hood - with Gabriel Emm, lilami, Steph W., VMS | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Mar 2022 | |||||
Rather 6a+/6b … holds are pretty good. Nice climb.
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6b+ | ★★ The Piano Player | 35m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Aug 2022 | ||||
Stunner of a setting! Morning shade was welcome.
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6b+ | ★★ Le Droga Le Haxixa | 16m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Mar 2022 | ||||
Some bird's shit higher up. Nice overall. Might be reachy for shorter climbers.
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6b+ | ★★★ The Flying Arete | 24m, 10 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 25th Mar 2022 | ||||
Hard
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6b+ | ★★★ Dirty Rotten Scoundrels | 25m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Mar 2022 | ||||
Nice but painfull in some parts. Probably harder than the grade in the topo, though onsight beta was likely suboptimal.
Hard |
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6b+ | Ecopoint ★★★ The Flying Arete | 24m, 10 | Malta | Mon 20th Feb 2023 | |||||
Nice boulder
|
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6b+ | ★★ Shaggydelic | 20m, 9 | Malta | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
fits the grade, great hoolds big moves
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6b+ | ★★ Le Droga Le Haxixa | 16m | Malta | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||||
clasic malteese overhanging route, big jugs in overhang
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6b | ★★ Life of William - with mantra | 20m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Sep 2016 | ||||
Nice, overhanging route with good holds all the way.
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6b | ★★ Life of William - with mantra | 20m | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 13th Sep 2016 | ||||
Nice and juggy at the edge of the cave.
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6b | ★★ The Harpist - with mantra | 11m, 3 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | ||||
Quick and fun!
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6b+ 6b | ★ Holey Moley - with Daniel | 10m | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 19th Sep 2016 | ||||
Short extension of "The Lord of the Crimps". Cool overhang with big holes.
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6b | ★★ Turn 84 - with Daniel | 22m | Gozo | ★ Good | Wed 21st Sep 2016 | ||||
More homogenous than its left neighbour. Nice, smooth route.
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6b | ★ Cold Burn - with Christoph Rauch | 12m | Malta | ★ Good | Sat 24th Sep 2016 | ||||
From good tufas to some nice, reachy shoulder moves on the flakes.
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6b | ★★ Communication Breakdown / Excalibur - with Christoph Rauch | 15m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Sep 2016 | ||||
Interesting, waxy surface. Some painful holds and a bit pumpy for a warmup route, but greal overall.
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6b | ★★★ Granny's Seat (Granny´s Seat) - with Vanessa, Daniel, Becky | 18m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Feb 2017 | ||||
Second warm up and another fun little route. Awesome features in this cave, jugs for days!
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6b | ★★ Tufa Moss - with vanessa | 12m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Mar 2017 | ||||
That start seemed well harder than 6b..
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6b | ★★ A Pocket full of Poses - with Vanessa | 25m, 7 | Gozo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Mar 2017 | ||||
Warm up. Awesome pockety goodness!
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6a 6b | ★★ A Pocket full of Poses | 25m, 7 | Gozo | Crap | Fri 4th Aug 2017 | ||||
well it is not worth even doing. and the top part burns your rope. I had to cut a mere 2metres from it. Route is easy for the grade
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6b | ★★ Life of William - with Shreddie and Pamela | 20m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Aug 2018 | ||||
Difficult to read. But a classic line. Stoked to onsight this (placing draws, never even looked at it). Probably Aus/Ewbank 20/21 .. it's got two crux moves, the rest of it is sustained at about Aus/Ewbank 19/20)
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6b | ★★ Tufa Moss | 12m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Sep 2018 | ||||
Climbed through this onto Lord of the Underclings. Awesome route. Fair grade IMO.
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6b | ★ Black Adler - with Diana | 15m | Gozo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Dec 2019 | ||||
Very nice route but felt easier. Maybe more like 6a. Increasingly difficult the higher you get. Quite technical on the slab (probably why I felt it was easier )
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6b | ★★ Le Tactic du Gendarme - with Dennis S. | 8m | Gozo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | ||||
did the route while it was dark, not recommended
realy nice, short, technical!
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6b | ★★ No Dogs | 15m | Malta | Sat 6th Mar 2021 | |||||
10 out of 30 - 6B or higher challenge
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6b | ★ Soupy Crimp | 17m | Malta | Sat 6th Mar 2021 | |||||
11 out of 30 - 6B or higher challenge
Fantastic! Technical.
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6b | ★★ Tufa Moss | 12m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th May 2016 | ||||
A few good tufa moves. Nice
Soft |
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6b | ★★ Life of William | 20m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Mar 2022 | ||||
As athletic as it gets within this grade.
Hard |
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6b ~6b+ | ★ Chimney Exit | 5m, 8 | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 30th Jan 2023 | ||||
I would say the boulder crux could weigh in at about 6A/+ Font grade (it's very morpho, I barely reached it with 184cm armspan) and for shorter people I think this route could easily be 6c/+ or more as the intermediates are quite thin.
Based on that, I conservatively suggest a personal upgrade to 6b+ based on the general formula of bouldery routes being Font grade + 3. |
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6b | ★ Chimney Exit | 5m, 8 | Malta | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||||
Very sharp rock
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6b | ★★ Communication Breakdown / Excalibur | 15m | Malta | ★ Good | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | ||||
It was not as fun as it looked, rock is sharp, run-out. Loved the hidden mini fridge-handle and pump factor
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6b | Henry | 18m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
nice route which you can climb barefoot
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6b | ★★★ Granny's Seat | 18m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
try climbing it barefoot rock is nice and smooth on the feet
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6b ~6a+ | Mummery - with Nelson Filipe Costa | 19m | Malta | Average | Fri 22nd Mar 2024 | ||||
Careful, lots of loose rocks. Also there's no anchor at the top and you have to use one from another route
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6a+ | Toledan Acid Mango - with mantra | 18m | Malta | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | |||||
Nice but very sharp holds.
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6a+ | ★★ Kleen Kutter - with Daniel | 22m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | ||||
Cool crack in the middle.
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6a+ | ★ Autoenough - with Christoph Rauch | 8m | Malta | ★ Good | Sat 17th Sep 2016 | ||||
Felt hard for the grade.
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6a+ | ★★ Exposure - with Daniel | 25m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Sep 2016 | ||||
Very nice line. Slabby start, then a single layback move up to a balancy crux section and a pull-up jug in the end.
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6a+ | ★★ Damocles's Scimitar - with Daniel | 12m | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 19th Sep 2016 | ||||
Little boulder problem in the beginning.
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6a+ | ★★ It's Raining Bolts - with Daniel | 10m | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 19th Sep 2016 | ||||
Extremely sharp holds in the end …
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6a+ | Caught On The Run - with Daniel | 22m | Gozo | Average | Wed 21st Sep 2016 | ||||
Painful hold at the crux over the upper bulge.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★ Toledo's Triumph - with Daniel | 15m | Malta | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Cool start, easy to protect, the upper part is less interesting.
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6a+ | ★ I Want to Break Free - with Daniel | 15m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Great fun at the right edge of the cave, overhang on jugs, then slab to the anchor.
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6a+ | ★ Open Your Arse - with Vanessa | 10m | Malta | ★ Good | Thu 9th Mar 2017 | ||||
Another easy warm up that felt hard at the grade but its most likely just me
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6a+ | Unknown - with Vanessa, Becky, Daniel | 20m | Gozo | Average | Sat 11th Mar 2017 | ||||
The climbing is ok but the bolts don't really follow the line and the slab at the top is silly and is a rope wrecker!
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6a+ | ★★ Sopu Crack - with Vanessa, Becky, Daniel | Gozo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Mar 2017 | |||||
Another stiff warm up, surprise surprise
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Sunset Express - with Pitufo Valiente | 15m | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 8th Dec 2020 | ||||
Jugs up to the top. Crucx in the end.
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6a+ | ★★ Beti Aurrera | 16m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | ||||
Beautiful
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6a+ | ★★ Fat boys | 35m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Mar 2021 | ||||
Beautiful and sustained. Delicate exposed Slab on top.
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6a+ | ★★★ A Tale of Two Budgies variation - with Andrea Z | Gozo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st Dec 2021 | |||||
Wunderbar, trotz dass sie permanent schräg verläuft. Oben coole kurze Platte. Sehr lohnend.
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6b 6a+ | ★★★ Stavrovski - with Fabio | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Kletterei eindeutig classic, aber ich möchte alles nur mit Samthandschuhen anfassen 😬
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6a+ | ★★★ Stavrovski - with Edi, Steph W., lilami, VMS | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | ||||
Endurance route, rather pumpy. All the flakes held, but I would be lying if I said that I didn’t expect one or two holds to blow XD. Luckily everything held, but climb with care. Awesome route nonetheless.
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6a+ | ★ Offering to the gods | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 29th Mar 2022 | |||||
Might be reachy for smaller climbers.
Bad clipping |
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6a 6a+ | ★★ Home Alone | 18m, 7 | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Mar 2022 | ||||
Athletic
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6a+ | ★★ Hug the Ufa | 15m, 8 | Malta | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Mar 2022 | ||||
Extend third and fourth quickdraw to reduce drag. Very hard to collect quickdraws.
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6a+ | ★★ It Ain't 6a | 12m | Malta | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th Mar 2022 | ||||
Technical
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6a+ | Ecopoint ★ Offering to the gods | Malta | Fri 24th Feb 2023 | ||||||
One move wonder. It was a fight onsighting it, going back and forth between the no hand rest and the crux move
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6a+ | ★★ Expiry Date | 14m, 7 | Malta | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||||
Sharp rock, powerful moves, run-out section, but lots of fun. Good standing ledge to clean from.
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6a+ | ★★★ Stavrovski | 19m, 11 | Malta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Sustained and EXCELLENT route, had a blast on it. Best route in Malta!
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6a+ | ★★ Piccoli - with Petra Weisz | 25m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
Very nice ending with a little overhang!
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6a+ | ★★ Right on Cue | 25m | Gozo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Jan 2024 | ||||
Spaced
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