Routes in Melanesia

Easy Rambling crack that leads up into a steep exciting finish. Closed Project

Up SP to the big jug. Go direct up the thin bulging wall to the top. Hard and Rad !!

Rad position and mega rock. Not too hard

An Easy Trad route that starts up a stemming corner onto a ledge. Then up the cave features and cracks to the top. Has one additional bolt at the first ledge for shorties that cant reach the crack for pro. This is optional only.

The obvious #4 #5 crack to the right of Fists. Can be done by bumping single #5. A good warm up before the classic of the wall.

An awesome looking splitter crack thats just a bit smaller than fist size except for the end.

Nice trad test peice at the grade. low crux then sustained easier climbing all the way to the anchors.

The Corner crack

Corner left of Instagram Arete, probably ongoing half-done closed project. Anchors at top.

The left hand line, starts off the block near small tree and has DBB up and out of sight.

15m right of beacon tower. Not much of a climb. 2 moves on a slab off width corner crack to some vego and loose blocks, then one move move on a similar slab off width corner to dense vego and roots.

The right hand route, starting off the pedestal.

Sweet corner to a break, then vertical crack to lower offs.

Trad line starting bottom of the gully (don't tumble down) 8m left of Slalom. Straight up then follow the prominent diagonal crack all the way to Healesville Special's anchors.

Starts just a few metres right of FOF. Goes up the corner then follows the crack up and slightly out right on the top head wall. Looks a bit harder than Fists of Fury.

Trad line starting 2m left of Healesville Special. Place bomber wire from the ground then head straight up to DBB out of sight on top of rib.

Far L route, The L arete of this wall. Start 2m L of SNA, awkward start and follow the L side of the arete to step R onto the face at the roof

Shares the first 3 Bolts with Two Hundred Mill then splits off diagonally left up the huge juggy feature to a steep finish. Great fun.

Fun, Long, steep and juggy – it’s easier to 2nd this to clean it. Start about 20m down the gully R of ST. Bridge up to the jugs and up the steep flake to about 2m below the top and a RB on the L. Step Land diagonally up the wall to the lower offs of ST. 11RBs, DRBB.

Start at the 'Decadence Wall' rap station, but instead of rapping, climb upwards instead.

Easy start for a few bolts and then it gets interesting.

Fun, short and gymnastic. The arete and roof L of the top pitch of the THASSC. Accessed from the Balcony via a hole below Tahitian Thrust. Go R and down after the 3RB and then up the centre of the prow.

Line of ring bolts 8m left of Two Hundred Mill. Please stay off for now

Start as for Lean Streak for 3 bolts to ledge, then take left line of bolts up the wall. Grade 21 slabbing to the 2nd last bolt, then a hard finish on right-facing edges trending right, before busting back left to anchor.

The opposing wall, corner, and crack to the left are "out".

Can belay from ground-level (10 bolts), or from a single U-Bolt on the ledge (7 bolts).

The 10th clip is a double-bolt midway anchor, but it is best to climb this as a single long pitch.

Start 2m R of Gully Gremlins and L of the next giant fern. Bridge of the back wall for a few moves to reach the jug where you pull onto the wall. Straight up the cool featured rock to the mantle out R at the top. 6RBs DRBB

An excellent intricate and sustained line! The original line started from the small ledge 7m above the main hang out ledge, hence the belay bolts. The direct start was added later and definitely completes the entire line, it goes at 27. Aid through the crux with relative ease to climb the main route from the ledge.

1. 30m Start as for the ASSC. Follow this for the 1st 3 FH before stepping L and following the easier line to the L to the ledge below the roof. Pull over the roof then follow the lip L a few metres before pulling over it and up around the arete to a DBB belay.

2. 10m Short traverse off L to a DBB on the ledge.

3. 15m Up the short steep wall to the DBB below Quaceros on the main wall

2m left of ML's project. Into the scoop at the bottom of the ramp then up through the bulge direct to the diagonal crack. Follow this then up into the dished wall to jugs above.

Precise and Technical!

The first ascentionist had to lose 10kg to get the FA.

Follow the line of bolts up past the black streak to DRB lower offs.

Pitch 1 - 7a, Pitch 1+2 - 7b+

Another 20m down the gully R of JP, Bridge of the back wall for a few moves to reach the bottom of the feature where you pull onto the wall. Straight up the cool featured rock to the mantle out R at the top. 5RBs DRBB

Awesome features and rock. 22-23?

The L most route on this wall, 2 pitches of great climbing, finishing with a very atmospheric lip traverse that certainly out there.

1. 30m 24 (the Fixed Hangers) A somewhat uninspiring looking black ramp, arete and slab leads up to a small ledge and roof. Over this and up the fantastic steep wall to some very thin moves L under the roof. Go around the arete in a corner and mantle up onto the ledge with a DRBB. 12 FHS

2. 10m 23 Traverse R to the arete then spectacularly follow the lip of the roof L over the void. 6 RBs to DFH anchor.

Bear hug up the ring bolted pillar then swing round onto the face then straight up on pumpy holds via ring bolts. Luxurious clip and lower anchor.

Start off the ledge and up Lean Streak for two bolts then traverse right along the rail to clip bolt. Be careful this is runout and could be a ledge fall. Can supplement with a trad piece if you want. Then up the arete to the last hard moves. Take a long panic if you want for the bolt up high. She's also a touch runout. Great position

A great juggy steep warm up. Start 2m R of The Cripple Nipple Project. Bridge up the walls to the large boulder chockstone. Climb onto this and then follow the diagonal line up and L before a steep little section at the last bolt. Mantle up over the top to the lower off. 6RBs, DRBB TM

Photogenic ! awesomeness

Old Covid project finally gets a FA. Step of the block and straight up. Mega !!

A long and varied excursion. Start 2m R of TASSC. Some trick slab climbing leads to the sloping ledge. A steep pull through the roof brings you into the corner. Up this step R around the corner making a tricky move onto the wall. Follow the line of big holds up diagonally L on the wall that is steeper than it looks.

Start as for Quiet Luxury then veer off left after the fourth ring bolt following the line of hangers to the moon.

Another fun great juggy steep warm up. Start about 10m down and R of TWSS. Bridge up the walls past the first 2 bolts. Above these climb onto the wall and follow the line up to a steep little finish at the last bolt. 7RBs, DRBB

Shared first bolt with the climb to the left, move right and up the juggy seam to an exciting move at the last bolt.

Start as for LIC. Follow this past 2FH before stepping R and up the slab to the ledge below the roof. Out the roof and up the headwall L of the wide crack to the DBB lower off. 11 FHs CB

The RH line. Follow the RBs up the featured face.

First line on the cliff starting just right of the tree. Stick clip first ring as the start is pretty spicy. FA by the former pro ML! Probably a sandbag...

Beautiful rock

A truely exceptional climb. The real climbing starts beneath the headwall.

Such a fun and wandering line on amazing rock. Make your way through the first mini roof then climb to the right below the cave. Then up some rock that is reminiscent of the Gramps to the finally! Might be 24-25

The tagged route immediately L of the Fool.

Great climbing at the grade. The line of fixed hangers, with the crux straight off the ground.

Start at the belay ledge and take the left set of bolts. Traverse left just above the cave roof the up. Climb up through the gap in the two big boulders in the cave to the top.

The next line to the right, all FH's. Stick clip first bolt and pull on to crimps from the block. Traverse through cool undercling feature to sustained and exciting climbing all the way to the top. Really good.

Fun cruxy moves to start then around the left of the cave on stunning rock.

the line !! mega if i can do it