Routes in Polynesia

Easy route on an obvious seacliff. Rock is OK. Acces by abseils and scramble. https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/nuku-hiva-tehaatiki-a-e-maua-i-ite/

Starts a few meters to the north of Gita. P1 - start up the corner seam placing medium size wires and cams as you go. Over the bulge to double bolt belay. P2 - start up the crack placing med wires and cams. When the crack disappears keep going a few more meters to gain the double bolt belay. Rap back to P1 anchors and re- rap, a 70m doubled over with rope stretch will NOT reach the ground from P2 anchors.

Fangatave is a sport climbing area, however it would be a crime to bolt this line as it can be entirely protected with trad gear. Please respect the wishes of the first ascensionists.

The wall to the left of the Descent line, snaking with vines and roots, was climbed in an exploratory style for potential beginners routes, but lowered off from a small tree about 9m up, unimpressed.

From the Three Coconuts Pass, hike along the ridge towards Mouaroa. The ridgeline begins to steepen and becomes about a grade 6 climb up loose soil, rock, and small shrubs. There is a boulder problem (crux - 2 bolts) on decent rock just before the anchors (DRB).

this was originally explored ground up on fairly spaced but nearly adequate threads and other gear to the spacious ledge. A belay anchor is installed. Any future developers may use the belay ledge at the top as access to the roofs above, and feel free to add bolts for a proper lead.

Very low first bolt. Climb the sharp easy stuff, then move right and go up the tufa system

Named after Kina Taufa. Scamper up to high first bolt on good holds then pass the tufas to a corner system, onto face, into and back out of the dirty black groove, to gain a ledge and belay.

Sharp at the bottom, gets tricky higher up

3 Pitches: 17, 24, 23; Scramble down to a boulder with belayers bolt looking at at P1. Climb out across wet ledges to the first bolts. After clipping the second bolt (in orange rock) return to unclip the first bolt (in black rock) to save drag on the pitch. Following a rising traverse over the churning sea to a minor crux traversing a slippery corner at the last bolt, out to belay on the arete.

P2 traverses hard right, downclimbing a short section to access the line of least resistance. Immaculate stone with wild sculpted features leads you up to a belay ledge. There is an extra bolt for safty at the traverse, which should be reversed and unclipped once past.

P3 slips over a bulge with some difficulty, and then easily through the wildly steep (somewhat rotten) cave feature. There is a belay at the tip of the overhang, then one more bolt and several bomber threads to topout on the jungled summit.

Access the belay stance by sliding left from the top of 'Kina', or right at last bolt of P2 'the White Shield'. Climb steep mostly juggy rock for several bolts through minor cruxes to a great rest pod, then through the last roof via a hand jam to arrive at the base of the headwall. There is a distinct and mandatory crux getting to the last bolt (just right of the white shield anchor). Grab the victory feature mega hold, clip the last bolt, then finish at the tip of the grey water streak.

Climb the tufa, go right, then up

Climbs the obvious hanging curtain of stalactites. Start by climbing unprotected up past the brain to a belay which will help decrease drag. out right and up the ramp to the first bolt and access to the first of the flow. Use a double draw on the fourth bolt (inside the room with no floor) for optimal rope running. The harder climbing begins as you exit out the window and find your way up the final overhangs on great full hand pockets to finish at the base of the headwall. (name changed from Enlightenment)

Climb through overhang at the start, then go up. It's steep and fun!

Climb stalactites and tufa on the steep face left of Faka'ofa'ofa. Stay left instead of turning the arete for maximum pumpy fun. There's a few mungey holds, but these can be avoided.

A tricky start followed by a pump-a-thon with a sting in the tail!

The descent gully from a signposted lookout point above, down to the base, some 100M north of Whale wall. Has now been equiped with bolts and rebelay stations for safe ascent when ropes are not fixed.

Climb the tufa, keeping an eye out for moko (geckos). Veer right, up steep pockets to finish.

Unrelenting route up the sparsely featured steep wall. Starts off beautiful flowstone pedestal growing at the base of the wall with nice looking plant growing out of the wall just left of the line.

Up tufa to stalactite, avoiding dirty holds, then solve the crux.

A thin technical section near the top makes this route unique

Steep with long moves between large pockets. Climb up and left into a small niche. Don't clip the bolt inside this niche, as there is now a better positioned bolt to the right.

You'll need some Polynesian navigation skills to get to this one! Starts from belay of third pitch of Skywalker. Clip the first Skywalker bolt, then veer left, cross the crack and head up steep wall on jugs.

One of the easier routes on the wall. Juggy and a bit pumpy

Steep pocket pulling. The first route established at this crag.

Quality face climbing up the immaculate brown face. Just slightly overhung. First ascended while a parade of whales performed below.

A one bolt variation start leading into B3 of the original upper climbing.

Endure a few mungey holds down low, then blast straight up this long, spacey route, negotiating an interesting corner and arete before arriving at the anchor in a recess.

An interesting technical start with some big moves followed by a pump-a-thon

Placeholder for new routes access pitch to triangle ledge

Starts from its own belay stance, three metres left and down from the "Trust me.." belay. Bolted by Paul Rogers who had to wait for the glue to set and didn't have time to send it. I asked him if its a project and he said it was "Up for grabs".

An access pitch leading up into the Muppet cave. Starts off the farthest right point of the tidal ledge system, 3 bolts up the steep featured rock past the right edge of the smaller cave and into the dihedral feature. Use long slings here to avoid rope drag above. The climbing eases as well as the route angle, finishing with a DBB at the spacious and comfortable Muppet ledge.

shares first bolt with "Pepe el Loco" then take right hand line toward tan rock

Climbs the stalactites on the right side of the Muppet cave. The first bolt is high off the Muppet ledge, but easily reached from the comfortable stance among the stout pillars. pinch and pull the plentiful gonzo noses of stalactites through the roof. A good rest can be had by swinging left of the bolt line before the last steep section. Finish at the roof with installed lower off rams-horns for easy cleaning. Then take the big swing out from the rear of the cave and enjoy the view!

20m uphill from main whale wall

4 Pitches (18, 24, 23, 19) starts with "Genesis" for the first pitch.

Pitch 2 [grade 24] - Forbidden Fruit above the belay on the left side of "Genesis ledge", directly up steep clean pocketed rock. Good rest after 3rd bolt, crux between B5 and 6. Crazy jugs at bolt 7 that are too good to believe. Interesting corner system to the top. 9 bolts to DBB on the "footledge"

Pitch 3 [grade 23] - the Tree of Knowledge Straight up the corner above the belay, then sliding across the face on wild sculpted holds, to access a stalactite and undercling flake on the prow. You may partake of any of the holds on the wall, but grab not onto the tree of knowledge, it is Forbidden! Go left above the shrub, avoiding the sharpest rock to DBB on the grey prickly slab. 11 bolts

Pitch 4 [grade 19] - Exodus Up the slab onto well pocketed face, head right at the 6th bolt and traverse down around then up tufa at the top to a DBB immediately below the vegetation line. 7 bolts. Strongly recommended to belay second up from here for communication. then exit over the roots and bushes to a three trunked tree on the summit.

Quite tricky and sustained with interesting moves past a tufa and over a bulge

A short easy pitch to a belay ledge at 12m where the real climbing begins

P1: a groove on the right side leads to the dark featured rock above P2: continue up and right to a small overlap, above this and further right to the second anchor

The access route for the main cliff, climbs black spikey flake/groove feature up to the "Genesis Ledge". Locate a single belay bolt behind a tree growing on the ledge system at the base. The obvious crux comes at the last 2 bolts as you pull over onto the ledge.

Goes through a rooflet that's somewhat tricky. Low first bolt is to protect both climber and belayer from falling off the belay ledge.

Face and Tufa climbing directly above the access pitch off of Genesis ledge. Strangely improbable flat holds lead you to the large incut feature at which point you have to slide around right onto the black tufa system. Climb this along with a selection of face holds on the left, until a sneaky slide to the right just below the headwall and glory pulls between great holds.

Above the DBB, a vegetated traverse on the jug flakes system leads left past two bolts to join "Forbidden Fruit"

Third line of bolts. The first bolt is difficult to spot and was placed for a stick clip. Start up the seam to the right.

Tavake are the white-tailed tropic birds that frequently soar past the cliffs of Fangatave, and the namesake of this climb, in honour of the long white streak this climb ascends, high above the forest. The first pitch is a bit dirty, but well worth enduring for the stunning pitch above.

Long varied climbing, quite consistent at the grade. Cleaned and sanitized well, but still sharp in places. above the midway anchor, the route veers left at the top to meet the anchor of "Cosmos"

Up and under the stalactite then up to a seam which leads to the anchor. Best to stick clip the first bolt.