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Ascents in Nuevo León as Onsight by Justin Case

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Showing all 7 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Thu 12th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Wonder Wall
5.8 Mr. Hanky - with Maria, Steve, and Igor Sport 27m, 8 Classic
Very nice, sometimes runout climbing. Better as a warm-up for a climber for whom 5.8 is not that hard, otherwise psychological! Lots of "faithy" reaches and steps on not-that-great footholds

 
Wed 11th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Lower Sense of Religion
5.10b Cactus Pile - with Maria and Steve Sport 94m, 10 Very Good
Only did the first two pitches today, Steve's first multi-pitch! Party was Maria, Steve, and myself. Very enjoyable first pitch which was lead by Maria and I lead the second, which felt scary, thin, runout and hard! Definitely feels like more than 10b (guide says 5.10?), and by the end, we all were feeling a bit wrecked, Steve's feet hurt, Maria had a migraine, and I felt like I was coming down with something... All in all, pretty good!

 
Mon 9th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico
The Spires North Side
5.9 Crack Test Dummies - with Maria and Kimberley Sport 75m Good
In one word: SCARY! Very runout and overgrown on the first pitch (easy), and very off-widthy and also very runout on the second. We wanted to get to the top of the spires, but we had to bail after I got to the top of the second (lead both), as it was getting dark and Maria had the pack on which would've made the offwidth pretty hard for her. Lots of plantlife with lots of thorns, and a tricky rap down. One to come back to go to the top!

 
Mon 9th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Lower Sense of Religion
5.9 5.11+ La Vaca - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin Sport 55m Very Good
Only did the first pitch. Very enjoyable climbing with fun moves for a slab. As usual, technical on the feet, typical of limestone!

 
5.8 Abuelito Dime Tu - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin Sport 26m Classic
Very very nice hueco features! Also, some funky body positioning makes for very enjoyable climbing. A must-do of this wall

 
Sun 8th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Lower Sense of Religion
5.11a Motavation - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley Sport 26m, 9 Mega Classic
After trying Team Hilti, Opi recommended us to try this route, and a good recommendation it was! After some bulgy-mantly climbing you get to a clean, gently overhanging pocketed face with excellent pumpy cross over and matching moves all the way to the anchor. Proud OS for sure! Guide says 10d, but feels more like a hard 21, so probably 11a as it says here.

 
5.10d Team Hilti - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley Sport 33m, 12 Very Good
The day before, tried doing a climb in zero temps and a cloud over Potrero! Everything was wet and cold, on the wrong wall and I went to some anchors to clean via three different climbs, scary! We bailed and Maria arrived after then we went to El Buho and then to Monterrey to get some very nice Norteno BBQ and shopping. Later that night Jin and Kimberley arrived Next day it cleared up and we went here, and this tricky, thin-in the feet slab was our warm-up, felt like a good OS to me

 

Showing all 7 ascents.

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