Nodes in Upper West Canyon

To these areas, approach as per the Middle Buttresses and hike up above the Mission Bell and Pulpit. From here, continue hiking due south, up-hill, aiming for the top which is clearly visible. You will crawl under a barbed wire fence (easiest by aiming for the exposed rock to the left, where there is a large opening in the fence). Continue up on faint paths and rock ridges. At the final ridge of rock, where you will be able to clearly see the Road Runner Rocks walls and the brush-filled bowl at the base. From here you can scramble down into the bowl and take a path to the base of the Road Runner climbs, or you can continue up to the top where anchors can be safely (if carefully done) reached to set up top-ropes or to rappel to the base of the climbs. The top of the climbs on Big Red are a further 20 meters or so past the oak tree on top of the Road Runner Rocs. From the southwest parking to the top: 1.25km,+250m, 30 minutes. To approach the base of the climbs on Big Red, follow the approach description for the Middle Buttresses and hike to the small plateau on top of the Mission Bell and the Pulpit. From this point, hike due south straight toward Big Red, staying level (not ascending). A faint path and some light bushwhacking will lead to a narrow gully that you will traverse and climb onto a ramp of rock. Scramble along the rock, continuing due south, with some steep walls on your right and the canyon below on your left. This leads to a some brushy spots, some more scrambling on steep slabs, and eventually into a small bowl beneath Big Red where you will be at the base of all the climbs. From the top of the Pulpit, it’s approximately 300m in distance and the same elevation.

Ser respetuosos con la comunidad y no dejar basura.

Start just north of the arête at the south end of the pillar, moving up on small ledges and crimps. The start is harder the closer you stay on the true arête, and easier if you climb a meter from the arête. Either way, climb through two bolts to the overhanging bulge, clip the third bolt pull onto the bulge. Then move up and pull the second bulge, then take advantage of the big features moving up and left to the anchors at the top on the south (left) side of the arete. 15 meters. Five bolts.

Pretty line in the middle of the cliff.

Starts near the north edge of the southern-most pillar of rock. Climb up the steep bottom face, plugging gear in short cracks, and head to the hammered-in knife-blade beneath the big block. Move up the left side of the block, then step out right onto the face of the block and pull up for a short rest on top of the block. Step up and move left on thin holds to plug gear in a pocket, then head straight up to some short thin cracks, plug a piece, and climb the overhanging jugs to anchor. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, a medium hex or a 2” single-stem cam (Trango #7) for the pocket (Camelots don’t fit). And balls. 14 meters.

This is a spicy alternate finish to Acme Suction Cups. After clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb up the overhang, plugging a big cam in the crack, then take a rest on the big ledge. Traverse left on the ledge deep into the huge dihedral to the bottom of a big flake with a crack. Climb the crack all the way to the top, plugging cams. GEAR: cams ½” to 2”. 17 meters. Note: this route is not shown in the topo photo, but it’s easy to see once you go left around the corner.

Climb straight up as close to the arête as possible through the first three bolts of Super Speed Vitamins. Extend the third bolt with a sling to prevent rope drag (clip it with an alpine draw). After the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Head straight up straddling the arête, finding the big holds while making bouldering moves to the top. Anchors are around the corner on the south face at the very top of the pillar. GEAR: Draws for six bolts and one alpine draw or sling for the third bolt. 17 meters.

Starts one meter to the right of the south edge of the block and heads straight up the bolt line on the face, staying one meter to the right of the arête, to a two bolt anchor at the top. Five bolts. 16 meters.

Start in the dead center of the face and move straight up through loads of features. You have the option of finishing at the Fast and Furry-ous anchors to the right (14 meters) or at the Super Speed Vitamins anchors to the left (16 meters). Both options are rated 5.9.

Starting just left of the corner, climb up the steep face to a bolt, then head straight up to a short slanting crack approx.. 2.5 meters above the bolt and slightly to the right. Plug a small cam or nut, then head straight up through three more bolts to anchors. Climbing upper half just left of the bolt line goes at 5.10b, while just right of the bolt line goes 5.10c. GEAR: Draws for four bolts and one ½” cam or nut placement (BD Camelot .5 or Yellow Alien/Totem). 14 meters.

Head straight up the south arête through heavily featured yet steep terrain, staying north (right) of the true arête and angling up and right to the anchors. 14 meters.

Start beneath the obvious overhanging bulge, moving up and around the left of it, then swing right onto the bulge and move up, sling the big chicken head, and move up to a left slanting crack (takes a #2 cam) and onto a small ledge, then straight up to anchors. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings. 14 meters.

Hike up to and above the Pulpit, then follow animal trails all the way up to the top of the bluff to rappel to the base of the routes. It’s approx 1.5 km and 300m of altitude gain from the parking lot across from the School Wall. You can approach from down in the canyon, hiking up staying as close to the west-side bluffs as possible, but it involves some bushwacking.

A steep and crimpy ride up the base of Big Red’s south face. Five bolts to the anchors of Button Up. 20 meters. You can continue up the buttress via Southpaw and T’Arete’s Syndrome all the way to the top.

It might be a 5.8 move off the ground, but once you get up 3 meters to the sloping ramp, it’s a low 5th class ride up to the anchors. Two bolts. 15 meters.

From the anchors at the top of Button Up, head up and slightly left through the steep pink face, turning the corner onto the south face, then head straight up and slightly right through a few bolts to the anchors at the big ledge. Those uncomfortable with the run-out after the third bolt can plug a small cam in a pocket. 15 meters.

From the anchors atop Button Up step up and right, clipping one bolt, then climb into the finger crack and fight your way up through 5 meters of pain. Skirt right around the huge block and climb up to the anchors. GEAR: Small to medium sized cams & nuts.

An alpine adventure that offers the easiest route off climbs #1 thru #4 (and the preferred way to rap into them). From the P2 anchors climb over and down the pillar then head up the ramp toward the airy arête. Sling the obvious pyramid horn , then traverse left and upward toward the top, plugging small cams. Pull a 5.10b/c move to the anchors if you avoid grabbing the little tree. GEAR: Small cams, slings. 25 meters.

Head up the ramp aiming for the crack in the dihedral and follow that crack as is steepens, moving up to a small roof where the crack peters out. Step out left to move up and around the overhang, then continue up and slightly right to a big, sloping ledge and move toward the base of the big, vertical crack that heads up the steep dihedral. A two bolt anchor is above a big pyramid flake at the base of the dihedral. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, nuts. Pitch 2 - 5.10b Trad – Head straight up the dihedral crack, stemming and jamming and fighting your way to the big ledge 15 meters up. GEAR: Medium to large cams up to #4.

Pitch #1: Head up the dihedral with a crack in the solid black rock. Climb up to the cactus then step right onto a ledge, then move up and back left, following the finger crack in the dihedral on your left all the way up to a ledge beneath blocky black rock and a two-bolt anchor. This is a long pitch, approx. 30+ meters. If you lower off or rappel from here, WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH & CLOSE THE SYSTEM WITH KNOTS IN THE ROPE ENDS!!! Pitch #2: Climb up the short, steep face above the anchor bolts. Place a small cam or nut in the groove above the bolts to protect the move off the belay, then pull up onto a small ledge and place a tiny nut in a crack near your right hip. Traverse left and slightly up, placing another small nut to protect the second from a pendulum fall. Move to the base of the steep pink wall and build a gear belay in the excellent cracks (there are no bolts). Pitch #3: Move up the cracks, onto the huge boulder, then ascend the grey pillar, best done by moving out right onto the pillar’s north face (enjoy the exposure!). Then head straight up, working through steep, blocky terrain (the rock is better quality than it appears), until you can pull over the edge into the brush and to the two-bolt anchor on the big boulder on top. 25 meters. Do NOT move left onto the orange and grey rock below the brushy finish – that section contains loose blocks and flakes. To top completely out, climb the short face to the west up to a big ledge with bolts and chain anchors. GEAR: Double set of cams (small to #3, or add a set of hexes) and a set of small nuts.

Ser respetuosos con la comunidad y no dejar basura.

Rap in from the top to the huge ledge and a set of anchors. Climb straight up the arête, occasionally getting into the deep dihedral, climbing up on crimpers and steep but solid rock. Watch out for wasp nests. Take a rest at the anchors on the nice ledge 2/3 of the way up, then climb easier terrain all the way to the top. 24 meters. An intermediate, two-bolt anchor is at the ledge 2/3 of the way up.