Ascents in Las Estrellas

Sick route! Glad it went before heading out.

Dogged again, felt wrecked after working Salty Dog and the moves felt very inelegant this timme. Then somehow after my partner top roped it, the pigtails jammed in the anchor (so that 190kg of hanging weight was insufficient to get the rope end up) and then had to aid up it in the darkness. Fml

Forgot I had already done this and repeated as a warmup

Very cool moves. Worked each of the boulder problems several times and they improved so much. Realised just before the anchors on the slightly sketchy top out I wanted to save my energy for Blue Fin/give other climbers a go and left it. Fantastic route if I had more time though.

Just couldn't read a couple problems but coming back for the send

Reachable 12a

Tricky middle crux

Lots of holds broke, making the upper cruxes way more dificult. The sun hits the multipitch all afternoon making it hard to climb and to belay. I would recomend trying it on a cloudy day, and for sure make the summit, altough the last two pitches are low quality, but the view from the top is worth it. If possible bring a 70+ m rope.

A crux in the middle, another before the anchor. Nice rest between

Easy and a crimpu crux before the end

Un crux pour traverser à droite sur la roche qui menace de tomber

Very run away for the last bolt

Spoon fed beta and it went first go. Sick route

The first 2-3 bolts were the only part that felt true 11d to me, then it was more 11b/c cruisey but still quite the calf-burner. Such a variety of movement and holds. Compared to Tilting at Windmills yesterday, this felt a step up in grade overall.

There are a number of ways to “cheat” the advertised difficulty by going out of arm’s length of the bolt line at the start, middle and top. The most obvious beta stayed true to the face and cracks IMHO, and for my go I just followed what made sense within reach of the bolts. I find it a bit silly to climb something avoiding obvious holds to make it a different grade, but in the end this is all a personal game with personal prizes.

At the top it felt obvious to use the jugs out right on-sight as they were easily within my reach, but it almost felt like a let-down without a harder finish. I did not read the comments about trying to stay in the crack but I’m glad I didn’t, and just climbed the way I wanted to.

Sick line. The start was the crux for me on the thin hands and feet. The crack is baller with good feet on popcorn the entire way. Finish is tricky, but in a good way.