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1 5.10
2 5.10a
3 5.11a
4 5.9
5 5.10
6 5.11d
7 5.11a
8 5.10a
9 5.11d
10 5.6
11 5.11a
12 5.9
13 5.5

description

PITCH 1: 5.10 8 bolts 35m. Weave your way through the yucca and cactus on perfect limestone drip pockets until you reach a thinner technical sequence just before the anchor.

PITCH 2: 5.10- 8 bolts 5.10a 35m. Move right off the belay and over a small roof to some nice face climbing that leads into a corner system. Follow the corner to a large ledge.

PITCH3: 5.11 6 bolts 15m. NO rap anchor. The shortest pitch of the route offers the first crux and a delicate sequence that involved a heady cactus mantle above small gear on the first ascent.

PITCH 4: 5.9 7 bolts 25m. Possibly the funnest pitch on the route! Zig zag up a series of finger cracks and corners. Exposed face moves lead to the anchor hidden in an alcove/chimney.

PITCH 5: 5.10 9 bolts 35m. Stem up the chimney into easy face climbing terrain. As the wall steepens, head left through the balance crux and finish on more easy water grooves to the anchor.

PITCH 6: 5.11+ 13 bolts 30m. Sustained climbing on beautiful pockets lead up, as the wall gets steeper the holds get smaller. This pitch will have your attention until you clip the chains!

PITCH 7: 5.11 13 bolts 38m. Angle up right on steepening terrain to the wildly exposed crux bulge. Good rests lie just beyond but it is far from over. This pitch is as varied as it is exciting!

PITCH 8: 5.10- 9 BOLTS 30m. Easy face climbing leads up into an interesting dihedral. Exit the corner to the right and traverse to the anchor. PITCH 9: 6 bolts 5.11+ 25m. Pull a V3 boulder problem right off the belay then cruise 5.6 terrain up the anchor at a nice flat ledge. Do this boulder problem and you are home free. Atop pitch 9 is a 10m flat area. This sidewalk in the sky has anchors for the rappel but on the ascent, link this ledge into pitch 10. If you walk left from the anchor, another 10m away is the “Bottle Rocket Bivy” that was used for the first ascent. It sleeps two perfectly.

PITCH 10: 5.6 35m. An easy romp up to the base of a steep bulge.

PITCH 11: 5.11a 35m. Some tech moves right off the belay lead to easy causing terrain above.

PITCH 12: 5.9 35m. Just like pitch 11 but even easier. Can be combined with pitch 13 using runners.

PITCH 13: 2 bolts 5.5 35m You made it! Take off your harness and scramble 70m to the summit and bask in the glory that is La Gloria!

Route history

First free ascent: Michael Perry & Zach clanton
Route setter: Zach clanton & Dave Henkel

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 25.37769, -100.39751

Grade citation

5.10, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11d, 5.11a, 5.10a , 5.11d, 5.6, 5.11a, 5.9, 5.5 Assigned grade
Boby Drum

ethic

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

inherited from Nuevo León

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
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Don't Bother
Crap

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Tick Types

Red point 1

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Sun 18 Jun
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