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Nodes in Koratzi

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Node
Koratzi

No known access issues, the area is within the Akamas National Park. Please respect the nature and behave responsibly (do not litter, try to keep to established roads/trails as much as possible and practice the principle of leaving the place you visit better than it was before). This is to maintain the current free access to the boulders for everyone to enjoy.

As the rock quality in the area is excellent, we must as climbers do our best to ensure that the rock remains in the best condition possible for the future. As such please read the steps below that can be taken to ensure that we preserve the rock while climbing:

  1. Please don’t climb with wet or dirty shoes, as this damages the hardened outer layer of sandstone over time, exposing the soft layer underneath, which is prone to erosion. As such make sure to thoroughly clean your shoes before pulling on any problems using a rag, carpet etc.

  2. Don’t climb when the rock is wet or damp, and refrain from climbing the day after it has rained. The rock may appear dry on the outside however the inner layers absorb water which weakens the overall integrity of the rock, which can cause holds to break. A good rule of thumb: if the ground around the rock is still pretty wet then probably you shouldn’t climb.

  3. Don’t use wire brushes to clean the rock as this can be highly damaging to the rock, there may be occasions where some wire brushing may be necessary to remove heavy patches of lichen, but this should always be done as a last resort, with a light touch and a lot of care, so if you need to clean something opt for nylon or bristle brushes.

  4. While the farmers we have spoken to are perfectly fine with us climbing on their land this is dependent on us not disturbing or damaging any of their crops and trees, so please be extra careful of this when climbing on boulders located in farmland as this is the easiest and quickest way for us to lose access to these boulders.

  5. Don’t litter! (This should go without saying)

  6. No chipping, manufacturing, or modification of holds! (This too should also go without saying)

To summarize, the area around Inia and Droushia is an incredible area with unique rock and climbing, and the only one of its kind in Cyprus. As there is a limited amount of quality rock on the island if we all make sure to follow the above steps, we will be ensuring that the boulders and crags in the area will survive and that their quality will be maintained over the years for everyone to enjoy!

HVS 5a Droushia Heights

On a vertical face on the left of the East side. Start 2m left of Ladder. Pitch 1: Climb the crack in the steep wall to a ledge and belay (8m). Pitch 2: Climb the slab on the Right up to a ledge Pitch 3: Climb the crack on the left up to the top. walk off from the top from the North side

VD Ladder

On a vertical face on the left of the East side. Climb the obvious center crack of the vertical wall (more broken than the other cracks) to the ledge (8m). Belay. Continue on the slab to the large belay ledge (20m). Climb the left-hand edge of the 'tower' (10m). Belay. Pitch 2 and 3 same as 'Droushia heights' and 'Ping'

HVS 5a Ping

Start 2m right of Ladder on the rightward rising crack to the ledge. The second 2 pitches are as for Ladder.

HVS 5a Weeping

5 m right of Ladder on the East Side. Pitch1: The huge diagonal crack going right. Belay on the stance under pitch 2. (30m) VS 4b Pitch 2: Climb the small overhang using broken rocks (secure with a BD3 Camelot) into a small stance and then go left on the vertical wall (secure the exit from the stance with a nut). (10m) HVS 5a

Back in the Saddle

Climb the broken wall to the triangular 'sentry box' and exit either left (crossing weeping)

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