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Boka Kotorska

Boka Kotorska Bay is one of the most beautiful bays of the Mediterranean, in which there are old towns of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi with the rich cultural tradition, long history, preserved architecture, fortifications, churches, cathedrals, palaces, squares which remember centuries, and other significant sites attracting tourist for a long time. In recent years, Kotor has been increasingly visited by climbers as well. In 2005 the Austrian climbers equipped 15 short routes in three locations.

Rocks in the surroundings of the small fishermen's settlement called Orahovac which is located on the road Kotor-Risan are more attractive for traditional climbing owing to its excellent quality and a beautiful landscape which opens while you are several hundred meters above the sea. In the last two years about 15 new routes, mainly of the lesser difficulty grades, have been climbed. The best time for climbing is from autumn to late spring. The south rock face of the Pestingrad Peak, with the height of about 350-400 m, dominates the town of Kotor. There are no ascended routes on this rock!

How to Get There

You will surely encounter problems in order to get to certain climbing destinations in Montenegro. However, it's not the case with Kotor. As a tourist centre, it has a good traffic connections with its surroundings. It is located 5kms away from the Tivat International Airport. There are numerous bus lines from all regions of Montenegro, and in recent years, from Croatia as well running to Kotor. The nearest railway station is located in Bar, about 65 km away.

Accommodation.

As a tourist centre Kotor offers various forms of lodging. Best information on accommodation facilities in Kotor you can find at www.tokotor.com, the official website of the local tourist organisation.

Orahovac - Izvor Ljute
Orahovac - Izvor Ljute
5 Lunina svetloba (tri varijante)
4 Proti soncu
4- Razkošje v skali
4 Najina pesem
4- Tiho pride jesen
4 Muca moja
4 Kozje molitvice
Kotor

At the foot of the slopes Lovćena, at the bottom of the most beautiful bays in the Mediterranean, is located in Kotor, a city of rich cultural tradition and one of the best preserved medieval urban centers in this part of the Mediterranean. Two thousand years of its history have left their traces in every stone of its buildings, towers, squares and walls, paintings, frescoes, in the records of the stone and paper, in all the portals and its narrow streets. As rarely, in Kotor are remnants of bygone eras. Due to the unique blend of different cultural influences Kotor's 1979th was added to the list of world cultural heritage under UNESCO protection.

For those who would like to combine the enjoyment of culture, architecture, history and tradition that provides Kotor, festivals and carnivals, swimming, sunbathing and a little climbing equipped sports directions, then Kotor is definitely your choice! I almost zaboravim.Nad Kotor dominated southern rock peak Pestingrad, 300-350 m height. No ascended routes! I believe that climbing this rock provide unforgettable experience with a view of the Bay of Kotor.

How to get there?

Do some climbing destinations in Montenegro, you will have problems to come. That is not the case with Kotor. As one of the most popular tourist destinations in this part of the Mediterranean is well connected with the traffic environment. It is located 5 km from the international airport of Tivat, lead up to it a number of bus lines from all over Montenegro in recent years and the Croatian. The nearest train station is located in Bar, at about 65 km distance.

Accommodation

As a tourist center, Kotor, offers various types of accommodation. The best information about accommodation in Kotor can be found on www.tokotor.com official site Tourist Organization.

Climbing

During the 2005 summer, Austrian climbers from Innsbruck with the assistance of the domestic climbers equipped 15 sport routes in three locations in Kotor. What those locations have in common is that the routes are mostly excellently equipped with glue-in bolts. The most attractive routes are situated in the sector above the bus station, in the clearly visible left section of the face, while the routes in the sectors Ljuta and St Stasije are less attractive and intended for novice climbers.

Sector above the bus station

Above the bus station there is a clearly visible yellow amphitheatre. This is a place with the hardest routes; there are four of those, which are located in the left wing of the amphitheatre. Those have difficulty grades ranging from VI to VIII. The rock is of an excellent quality, the routes have a length of 15 to 20 m. It is clearly visible from the main bus station in Kotor.

Kotor
Sector above bus station
Kotor Sector above bus station
4+ Prva praska najbolj boli

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19195

Vstopimo na grebenu v levem delu previsne stene. Čez prvo stopnjo in dva raztežaja po lažjem svetu. Desno na rob grebena in po njem čez strmo stopnjo in v lažji svet.

7a+ Vertical gardener
7a+ A bad case of nihilism
7a Snail's patience
7b Culebra
7a+ The awesome 8
6c All Tinder no sparks
7a Sheep are people too
7b+ Speci
7b A moment's peace
6c Buket cvijeca
6c Pilot
7b+ Luda spilja
7c+ Lamb to the slaughter
8b Sacrificial lamb
8b Animal sacrifice
6c+ We will rakija
7b Pins and needles
7a Boreas
6a Sister savior
5a Stumpy
5a Mutton bustin'
4b Mr toad
6a Lady bird
5a Goat
5b The soccial ladder
Kotor
peak Pestingrad
Kotor peak Pestingrad
5 Čuk

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20586

Kada se dodje do desne stijene, ona se na samom početku razdvaja na dva grebena. Smjer počinje na prvom grebenu i prati ga do kraja. Drugi cug u stijeni se izdvaja jer je malo teži, a ostali lagani ali krušljivi. Sam smjer izlazi malo ispod cuvenih Pestingradskih vrata.

4+ Beštija

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=18871 Pestingrad se nalazi povise grada Kotora. Centralni dio stjene je previsan i jako krusljiv tako da smo od njega odmah odustali! Smjer pocinje usjekom na desnoj strani stijene prije cuvene pestingradske pecine u kojoj po legendi zivi vila Alkima. Prva tri cuga su jako slicni i odlikuje ih trava i solidan kvalitet stjene. Pocetak cetvrtog cuga je na malom balkonu na kojem se moze malo odmorit i uzivati u pogledu na Boko Kotorski zaliv. Tu smo ostavili jedan klin. Zatim pocinje strm dio koji karakterisu trava i jako krusljivo kamenje. Poslije tog strmog cuga dolazi ogromna polica i onda se otvara pogled na drugi dio stijene. Ocekivali smo da ce gornji dio stijene biti kompaktan kako to obicno biva u Boki ali na Pestingradu je gornji dio jako krusljiv i veoma nezgodan za penjanje. Do samog vrha vode jos 4 cuga.

Kotor
Dobrota
Kotor Dobrota
4+ Greben Dobrote 2

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20587 Smjer je u stjeni odličnog kvaliteta i sa interisantnim detaljima. Prva dva cuga su potpuno vertikalni i pružaju najviše uživanja, dok su naredna dva sve lakši i lakši.

Vstop Mimo blokov v naselju Dobrota pod izrazit steber. 10 minut.

Sestop Sa vrha smjera desno se nailazi na pjesačku stazu, koja vodi ravno u podnožije stijene.

4+ Greben Dobrote

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=18966

Vstopimo nekaj metrov višje v desnem delu stebra. Sprva levo na steber in po njem dva raztežaja. Desno čez skalno zaporo in iščemo prehode po grebenu, ki je posejan s strmimi skoki. Še nekaj raztežajev položnejšega grebena.

Vstop Mimo blokov v naselju Dobrota pod izrazit steber. 10 minut.

Sestop

Desno čez greben in navzdol na markirano pot, ki vodi v naselje Dobrota. 1 ura.

4 Ognjeno obzorje

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19191

Vstopimo v razčlenjen svet pod previsom in po pol raztežaja levo proti razčlenjenem razu. Po njem pod bariero. Levo navzgor na raz in iščemo prehode do plošče z razčlembami in do pastirske poti.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota začne markirana pot na planino Zalazi. Po poti sto metrov in za hišami v levo po slabši poti pod steno. 10 minut.

Sestop Po pastirski poti v desno na markirano planinsko pot.

4 Perunika

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19192

Na začetku po razčlenjeni skali in po desetih metrih levo na večjo polico. Še navzgor in levo po poševni razčlembi na rob. Nekaj metrov navzgor in desno na stojišče. Po nekaj metrih desno čez strmi del stene. Zgoraj levo na greben in do pastirske poti, ki poteka nad steno.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota začne markirana pot na planino Zalazi. Po poti sto metrov in za hišami v levo po slabši poti pod steno. 10 minut.

Sestop Po pastirski poti v desno na markirano planinsko pot.

3 Jok vetra

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19189

Vseskozi po grebenu na vrh njega.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota in fotografije z vrisano smerjo poiščemo greben, po katerem poteka smer. (Ogledamo si dobro področje, kjer naj bi potekal sestop). Poiščemo najlažji prehod med nekdanjimi terasami. Čez spodnji del stene, ki te pripelje na pastirsko pot. Prvi lažji prehod levo na greben. 25 minut.

Sestop V levo poiščemo prehod do previsne stene in ob njej navzdol. Vseskozi iščemo zaraščeno pastirsko pot, ki te poševno navzdol pripelje do vznožja stene. Po melišču do prvih hiš v Dobroti.

4+ Av

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19188

Smer poteka po neizrazitem razu, ki je razdeljen na tri dele. Vmes je lažji teren. Vseskozi se držimo raza in iščemo najlepše prehode.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota in fotografijo z vrisano smerjo poiščemo steno po kateri poteka smer. (Ogledamo si dobro področje, kjer naj bi potekal sestop). Poiščemo najlažji prehod med nekdanjimi terasami do vstopa v smer ob kovinskim električnim stebrom. 25 minut.

Sestop V levo poiščemo prehod do previsne stene in ob njej navzdol. Vseskozi iščemo zaraščeno pastirsko pot, ki te poševno navzdol pripelje do vznožja stene. Po melišču do prvih hiš v Dobroti.

4+ Merjasec in pivo

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19190

Čez plošče navzgor na rob. Od tu tri raztežaje po lahkem svetu pod strm del grebena. V levem delu po poklini v lažji svet in po grebenu na rob.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota po stari poti, ki te pripelje pod greben. 25 minut.

Sestop Na levo stran iščemo najlažje prehode za sestop.

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