Showing all 57 nodes.
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Dollu
Village Dollu near city Pharping near Kathmandu district Hattiban. If you want a day trip or longer escape out of Kathmandu, a fun hike up some Nepali single track and sport climbing on limestone crags this is the place for you... Hey you could even stay at a monastery and develop your meditative abilities so you can relax on some of the more run out clips. There are 4 different cliffs, mostly single-pitch climbing routes, all bolted for sport climbing with bolted anchors at the top of each route. |
Wow Crag
Good potential for shady steeper climbing. |
Mati Crag
A great little sunny crag at the end of the valley. |
Mati Crag |
5c
★★★ Route 1
Easy but quite run-out. |
6a ★★★ Route 2 |
6a ★★★ Route 3 |
6a ★★★ Route 4 |
5c
★★★ Route 5
Fun new route, following the central chimney in the middle of the crag. Best bolted and least run-out route on the crag. |
5c
★ Route 6
Easy but run-out. |
6a
★ Route 7
Mostly 5c with a 6a crux. |
5b Route 8 |
Middle Crag
Sunny crag with beautiful views over the Dollu valley. |
Middle Crag |
6a
Route 1
5c ledgy climbing with 2 6a cruxes. |
5c Route 2 |
6b Route 3 |
High Route 1
at least 3 bolts |
High Route 2
at least 4 bolts |
High Route 3
at least 3 bolts |
6a+ Route 4 |
6b Route 5 |
5c+
Route 6
Can be made easier by using some good holds a bit on the left side of the route |
5c
Route 7
There are at least two major variations on this route: one keeping to the right and one keeping to the left. The one to the right that follows the arrete like feature to the top is probably the easiest route on the whole crag, maybe 5b. The one to the left is somewhat trickier, maybe 5c+ |
5c Route 8 |
6b Route 9 |
6b+ Route 10 |
Route 11
at least 6 bolts |
Main Crag
This limestone wall stands tall on a hillside over looking a valley of Buddhist monasteries and village farms. For the most part of the day it is in direct sun light which gets rid of the morning bugs and may help with keeping the leaches away from your belay partner as you whip off your new project. Not many travelers know about this spot but it can be frequented by Nepali guides on their days off, making it a nice get away from the crowded streets of Kathmandu. The rock is gorgeous limestone with with tons of huecos and finger pockets. Bolts are mostly bomber though mind that there are some bolts that are loose or have been hammered flat; top bolts are present on all lines. Usually 7-8 draws are sufficient. Runouts are not bad. |
Main Crag |
5b ★★ Route 1 |
6b+
★★ Route 2
Without using the huge handholds away and right. |
6a ★★ Route 3 |
★★ Slippery
As the name suggests. |
6b ★★★ Chicken Neck |
6b ★★ The Belly |
6a+ ★★★ Route 7 |
6c
★★ Left Elephant Trunk
Route branches left below the final grey tufa with a separate bolt on the left side of the tufa. The anchor is well above the grey tufa. Shares the anchor with the right variation. |
7a
★★ Right Elephant Trunk
Pass the final grey tufa to the right for this harder variation. The right side of the tufa has a separate bolt. The anchor is shared with the left variation and is well above the grey tufa. The lower route can also be fully climbed on the face to the right of the bolt line, avoiding several of the good pockets on the left side. 6c+ at 8a.nu. |
★★ The Black Panther |
6a ★★ Route 11 |
★★ Route 12 |
6c+/7a ★ Route 13 |
5c ★★ Route 14 |
Wensleydale Crag
100m up into the trees, you will see a large crag on the hillside. As the name suggests, parts of the crag are soft and crumbly. The first climb was done with the use of trad gear, but other routes have been climbed with the aid of pitons. Tree belays at the top, retreatable abseil advised, look out for loose rock on top out. Wear a helmet. |
Wensleydale Crag |
6b
★★★ A Bolt From The Blue
A bolted route that starts at the left hand edge of the black face. |
6b
★ Mud, Blood, and Pull Ups
From the small groves with evidence of fire, climb up and right to gain the leftward trending crack. Follow this up to the base of a small tree. Go down and left underneath the tree and ascent the rock directly above it to a small niche. Gain composer for the bold movements to the top.From here head to the right of another tree under an overhang. Gain the overhang and move right and pull up to a small cave, left and up to top out. Possible belays on the way up , be careful of the rock as it is lose and may not hold a seconds weight. Double ropes adviced as the first ascent was done with a single and the rope drag was immense. First ascent was done with just nuts and slings, the grade will be decreased if other types of protection are used. |
6b
★★ Swiss Cheese
Start to the left hand side of "Thread Flintstone", just past the gully. Work your way up beside the gully using the trees as anchor points, from the second tree traverse around to the left, head stright up past the first small over hang to gain a small cave. From here go up past the next small over hang and traverse right to gain top out. From here its a scramble to the top of a rock formation once ontop find the piton and tree for use of anchor points. This climb was completed using nuts and slings, the use of cams would drop the grade of the climb. |
6a
★★ Thread Flintstone
Start a few metres right of "Swiss Cheese" and a small gully. Climb the crack line in between the overhangs and up to a small ledge with a vertical crack leading up wards. Follow this up and right to finish in between large flakes. For a direct finish climb up the vertical crack to a small niche and cave move left around the cave and up with some interesting moves to finsh just up and right of the tree in the gully. |
Mukki Madness & Deesa Bhato
Location? At ukclimbing they are situated at (27.623057, 85.277917) below "Wensleydale Crag", but there are no boulders (checked 11/2022). The text description there is: "Located about 400m past the boulder at Pharping village, 50m off the main road. There are 2 boulders here, Mukki Madness is the first boulder and Deesa Bhato the smaller boulder near the rock face. At certain times of the year this area is farmland. Do not disturb the crops growing and be nice to the locals. If there are corn stalks drying on the side of the rock do not move them. Ask if they can be moved first and always replace what you have moved. Situated behind Mukki Madness, Deesa Bato is a small crag, where sit-starts are required to make any good routes. The south-facing area is used as the public toilets so it smells, but some good climbs round that side; just dont fall off!" The boulder descriptions mention also a bridge and a river? |
Mukki Madness & Deesa Bhato |
Mukki Madness |
V0+
★ Negative Feelings
Start at the middle of the boulder, work you way up to the out crop, traverse left on the ledge, then finish of by heading right over the tuft of grass. |
V0+
★ Mukki Arete
On the southwest facing arete, start with right foot on sloping ledge, reach up for the first jug, move up the arete and finish with the steps at the top. |
V0+
★ What Comes Up Must Come Down
Up the clean slab just left of the pill of crops on the boulders black face. Up to the arete and traversing right to top out. |
Deesa Bato |
V2
★★ Smack The Donkey
#SD Located next to the northeast arete. Lay back the first few moves, reach up to ugly holds, finish off by getting your left foot high and ruck up. |
V1
A Bridge Over The River The River Poo
Starting from the closest point of the boulder to the back wall. A bridging exercise to gain the top of the boulder. |
V1
Mossy But Not Moist
#SD 1m right of "Smack the Donkey". Smear with small handholds. Well excuted move to gain the top avoiding the line of grass just below it. |
V0+
Long Drop To A Smelly Stop
Start just left of a bridge over the river. Smearing under the overhang, step up traversing left. Finishing just left of the top block. |
V1
★ Rodeo King
Located about a meter to the right of "Mossy But Not Moist". #SD with right hand high and left hand round the out crop, work your way up to the ledge and mantleshelf to gain finish. |
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