Ascents in New Zealand by Max Gordon

Tried at the end of last summer but ran out of time and belay partners. First session back and second attempt. I'd climbed this route a thousand times in my head over the past six months waiting to try it again and still managed to claw at the clipping hold with the opposite hand out of desperation and excitement. lots of groaning and a twisted up clip saw it through.

Told by my belayer that this was the 22 and spent half an hour grating the skin off my finger tips. I'm sure its a great route but i bailed when i found out it wasn't Falcon Steep.

The holds are quite polished but i believe the quality is still preserved. The tricky part for me was finding the right feet through the crux and clipping one move past it. Stoked to climb with Glen when i sent it, local legend for sure.

Classic in my opinion. Definitely one of the best routes i climbed in NZ and was stoked to get the send. Split personality; dynamic first move leaving the slab, thin face climbing too roof and powerful moves through to anchor.

Punchy crux moves through over-hangs and delicate mantle like move and traverse beyond this. Nice consistent climbing.

Thought the bulge just above the inside corner was so desperate but i loved the fight on the slopers to pull through it, easy slab to the anchors, awesome!

Some really nice holds and thin climbing through the crux. Failed onsight attempt. Got it next shot. This area is a really cool small grotto that would be good for hot days.

Insight failed trying to stay last of the fifth bolt for the 24 grade. It seems someone has added a bolt just above the slab at the start so that would now make it bolt 6. Staying left seems sand bagged and i never pulled through the moves. Climbed through the 23 variant which to me seems like the obvious and better line, definitely nicer climbing.

Pulled through the moves then down graded it in my head. Fell off during my red point attempt; lesson learnt

Maybe the most technical climb I've done. Fell off the last big move before the glory jug twice, sooooo annoying! Had a little tanty knowing i wasnt going to give it another whirl but ah well, it was funny. I'd give it 3 stars if it wasn't spoodgey AF! Used an entire bag of chalk. Stiff 24

Didn't climb the last pitch. Thought the climbing was hard for the grade, amazing location and intro to exposure.

The candle stick feature is cool to climb on. Anchor is right out to the right so theres a few moves through shitty rock.

Pretty cool climb, dbf climbing at that point, never went for the lead.

No longer has the glued on hold.

Failed onsight attempt getting super pumped beneath the crux and not having the mental game to commit to it, had to weight the gear. Placed all the gear on lead for the tick. Interesting, fun climbing with bomber gear bottom to top. I only placed one small alien cam after the crux but came aren't needed.

RIDE THE PONY!!! Only pulled through the moves on this one as Pat sent it first go after working the moves on previous sessions and neither of us wanted to wait around for me to do the same even know the route is definitely worth the effort. The novelty of sitting on the horn at half way before the crux is worth climbing the route.

3 laps on this at the end of the day to practice resting on straight arms and foot work. Ended up climbing till i could no longer practice any real technique but it did help endurance.

Definitely one of, if not, the best route in Wanaka. Thought the hype about it in the guide would end up a disappointing route but it delivers. Missed out on the flash due to coming very close to shitting my pants at the crux. Warning: Do not drink a double long black half an hour before getting in your harness hahaha. Simply enjoyed climbing to the top after bowel release

Had such a field day battling the head space on the onsight lead. Couldn't climb through the crux but was persistent to either send or take my first fall onto placed gear. Fell at the crux onto a solid wire (Still shrieked like a little girl). Once fallen, got the pink point then lead ascent placing all the gear. Hardest all trad line so far.

My style of climbing. Bomb proof rock with thin flat edges. Fell off the crux, climbed through to the top and couldn't be arsed to give it another go.

Onsight to the anchor below the roof. Fell of slopers over the mantel because i was simply cooked from the days climbing

Absolute sand bag if iv'e ever climbed one!! It must be a local joke to watch tourists kick the wall. When you think the steep start and two digit pocket crux was hard, think again, the top is a joke. Laughed hysterically at my tantrums once lowered to the ground.

Also sand bagged. Mantle to the anchor is nails

Huge step up from uno. After the ball-enlargement therapy of the 21 i thought i could step it up again. so wrong. If you can't jam, good luck! The description says bomber jams but you'd have to be a wide boy in my opinion

Sustained face with multiple small over-hangs and many rests. Starts at the stalactite with thruchy moves and hard clipping.

Pretty much a boulder problem. Once you mantle its all over but gee-wiz! what a mantle! I would have thought twice if it weren't protected by a bolt.

A must do! If not for the climb, for the hectic photo cutting feet above the mountainous background. So glad to retro flash this after it kicked my arse a few years back. Nice to know I've improved

Sand bagged but awesome and interesting climbing

Pretty cool climbing but it feels like the pebbles are going to fall into the palm of your hand.

My hardest all trad onsight and probably the most memorable climb of the trip. Tried the Alex "no big deal" Honnnold approach but ended up with parkinsons after about 5 meters. As the crack became vertical and the feet disappeared i was feeling out of my depth. Kept it together until my foot slipped and i cried out like a beaten dog hahaha. Used a double gaston with every muscle in my body to keep me from whipping onto the gear. Managed to drag myself through the wet/slimey upper section of the route more out of fear of testing my gear than being a bad ass. Laughed uncontrollable once i topped out and realised what a pussy i am. The climbing is solid and the gear is bomber.

Beware the mantle is hard and once you pull above it you may get stuck and panic (or maybe thats just me) haha

Led both pitches. Loved the run out slab style thats going on here, definitely makes you focus. Felt insecure traversing out right after the mantle on the second pitch to the next bolt, would be a heinous whipper if you slipped but makes it a lil exciting for the grade