Ascents in Oceania by Max Gordon

Tried my best but thought i better give up before i give myself haemorrhoids. kudos to those that have clipped the anchor.

I couldn't have pushed it any closer to the red line. Last day, last shot. The closest I've ever been to falling but pulling through.

Tried at the end of last summer but ran out of time and belay partners. First session back and second attempt. I'd climbed this route a thousand times in my head over the past six months waiting to try it again and still managed to claw at the clipping hold with the opposite hand out of desperation and excitement. lots of groaning and a twisted up clip saw it through.

Went to battle with the slopey rail before the anchor. It made the sweet nectar of success all the more tasty!

Took a while to get the moves but I've finally experienced clipping the chain. Feels so burly. I thought getting the moves done felt good but it was nothing compared to watching Matt try to swing off a near by boulder on the rope with too much slack and smash himself into the sand hahahahaha!!!

Tried this two weeks ago and fell off the second crux twice. First shot today, followed by two more laps with a quick dance at the no hands rest each time haha must have been the key factor

Tried this over a year ago and couldn't pull through the first move. Had a look again last week and then sent it first shot today.

Clipping the third bolt in the roof proved to be my crux. I ended up meat wrapping my calf on the block and things came together. A few sessions with your local chiropractor might be all the beta you need for the crux.

Two working runs. Spent most of the time just playing around with the heel hook, it just didn't feel natural and took a while to gain confidence moving off it. Will try a red point next sesh

Fell on the crux and the last move. Worth going back for i think.

Had to see why Dylan was so eager to get me back to this area. Fantastic headwall with powerful crimping and a thought provoking crux. A sweet addition to this sector.

Told by my belayer that this was the 22 and spent half an hour grating the skin off my finger tips. I'm sure its a great route but i bailed when i found out it wasn't Falcon Steep.

Fell at the crux during an onsight attempt. Never managed to pull through the move but consider this route of very high quality.

A must do if you're going to spend the day at Frontline

Favourite send of the day. Earned its stars.

Feeling like my jaunt to Araps paid off for this one. Could happily climb this every visit. Rocks harder than Russian prison and i thought she looks alright too. Mega!

"You're almost there, just jump for it!!" - Well that takes my flash up by 3 grades haha. Night climbing may be the charm

With my Dad on belay, i sent on my second attempt of the day, stoked!

One working go, first redpoint. I didn't consciously use a finger lock like many others have commented, but maybe thats just because i couldn't haha. Fun route

The holds are quite polished but i believe the quality is still preserved. The tricky part for me was finding the right feet through the crux and clipping one move past it. Stoked to climb with Glen when i sent it, local legend for sure.

Classic in my opinion. Definitely one of the best routes i climbed in NZ and was stoked to get the send. Split personality; dynamic first move leaving the slab, thin face climbing too roof and powerful moves through to anchor.

Had an all in battle for the send on my last attempt and finally clipped the chain... after shaking out my left hand... then my right.. then my left ect haha

Back when Jake put this up. Punchy crux down low and terrifying slopers in the palm of a pumped hand to finish is my memory of this route.

Agree with the description that the crux is the third clip. Second shot. Don't mind the crushed ferns at the base, went for a victory roll down the hill

Glad to have finally stopped donating skin to the crux of this route. Second shot but have tried in the past multiple times. A change of beta always does the trick.

Punchy crux moves through over-hangs and delicate mantle like move and traverse beyond this. Nice consistent climbing.

I'm definitely apart of the majority who walked beneath this line the first time i went to Thomos and thought only super humans that climb like insects could do "that" route. 4 years of climbing and an unemployment status will do great things though! Glad i finally gave it a go. Maybe one day i'll climb like an insect.

I couldn't do the big move from the rail to the jug on the lip so instead i used the small sloper edge on the lip with many toe hooks to stop the pendulum cut.

Deserves traffic

One of the best routes I've done it Nowra. Really stoked to have made the time to go out there for this. Deserves lots of traffic. Best as a morning climb.

pulled through all the moves a few times but it'll take some more attention before i can claim a clean tick

If i were going to name this after something you'd find in a womans handbag, i would have called it dildo, because it sure fucked me. I have no idea how people make that span. Respect.

Awesome delicate climbing. Very strong on the fingers. Be extra careful with small cams. RP's are so helpful for the start.

Feeling good after getting Avo Queens i thought i'd have a lash. First go, yew! I felt lightyears from the send last time i tried this.

Fell off the crux during an onsight, lowered to the ground and sent second go. Used an exceptional heel/toe cam during round two. It's a one move wonder, but its a fantastic move!

Didn't climb the last pitch. Thought the climbing was hard for the grade, amazing location and intro to exposure.