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Ascents in Long Side as various tick types

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 129 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 10th Jun 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Chasing After Charlie - with John Pitcairn Mixed trad 14m, 4 Good
Grant Johnston
On top rope. Got up to the traverse right.

 
23 Snatchbender Direct - with John Pitcairn Mixed trad 14m, 2 Very Good
Grant Johnston
On top rope. Got up to the roof. Missed the undercling and gave up.

 
23 Bad Behaviour - with John Pitcairn, steve Mixed trad 14m, 1 Classic
Grant Johnston
Happy to top out. With running beta from John and lots of rests. Good climb with lots of different moves in it.One worth working on.

 
24 Chasing After Charlie - with Grant Johnston Mixed trad 14m, 4 Good
John Pitcairn
Several rests.

 
Mon 5th Jun 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 The Grip Goes On - with John Pitcairn Mixed trad 14m, 1 Good
Grant Johnston
Got maybe 2m. Other climbs I should work on before this one.

 
22 Gothic Groove - with John Pitcairn Trad 15m Good
Grant Johnston
Oh dear, Major problems. I need to learn this again.

 
23 The Grip Goes On - with Grant Johnston Mixed trad 14m, 1 Good
John Pitcairn
Top rope. Mostly figured out the bottom, had a good go at the top but ran out of steam after the bolt and lowered.

 
22 Gothic Groove - with Grant Johnston Trad 15m Very Good
John Pitcairn
Sun 21st May 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
18 Deffust - with Angela Hewlett Trad 10m Classic
Grant Johnston
Had to down climb and rest on the first nut. Oh dear. Tired post Arapiles?

 
19 Bandersnatch - with Grant Johnston Trad 11m Very Good
John Pitcairn
Tired, poor footwork, oozed off the greasy top ledgy hold, slumped onto a Z3.

 
22 Fuck-Knuckle - with Grant Johnston Trad 16m Good
John Pitcairn
Failed and lowered from the crux on top rope. Grant put me to shame by scampering through easily.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Spanish Moon - with Andy Baird Trad 11m
Andy Baird
Sat 8th Apr 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
21 Green Groove - with Grant Johnston Trad 11m Good
John Pitcairn
Sat on a brass offset at the crux several times remembering what to do. Suck it up, mostly.

 
Wed 15th Mar 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Samarcand - with Angela Hewlett Trad 9m Good
John Pitcairn
Spanked. A couple of sits on the cam in the first slot.

 
Thu 23rd Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Sheerlux Trad 14m
John Pitcairn
Dangle and thrash at crux on top rope. Knackered, gave up.

 
Sat 11th Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 The Grip Goes On Mixed trad 14m, 1 Good
John Pitcairn
Not quite to the first low jug. Getting hot and greasy. Feh.

 
Wed 8th Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 Snatchbender Direct Mixed trad 14m, 2
John Pitcairn
How have we missed this? It's great. Close to nailing it first attempt but bollocksed up the move across to the top block. Fun.

 
24 Chasing After Charlie Mixed trad 14m, 4
John Pitcairn
A bit of hanging around through the crux but somewhat better than usual.

 
23 Bad Behaviour Mixed trad 14m, 1 Very Good
John Pitcairn
Testing placements. Arsed off at the low crux.

 
Wed 1st Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 Sneakeasy Sport 11m, 3 Good
John Pitcairn
Had to work out the top again. Ant did it better. Guess my strength is returning.

 
Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Barracuda Trad 16m Good
John Pitcairn
Top rope, placing gear. Bloody glad I didn't just get on lead. The gear is tiny, fiddly and totally in the way. I'll want a couple of grades leeway before attempting it I think. I wonder if those who downgraded it from 24 to 22 actually led it placing gear?

 
19 Orangutang Trad 12m Very Good
Alastair McDowell
Hard start always gets me then easy to top

 
Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Momrath Trad 14m Very Good
Alastair McDowell
Quite tricky with enough gear but still a mental lead

 
Sat 17th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara Sport 14m, 2 Good
Alastair McDowell
Nice slapping

 
Wed 14th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 The Raven Trad 10m
John Pitcairn
Failed to sail up it. Stumped in the usual spot getting to the jug near the top. Hm.

 
Sun 4th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
18 Deffust Trad 10m Very Good
Andy Baird
24 Porkland Mixed trad 14m, 1 Classic
Andy Baird
Tue 22nd Nov 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 The Grip Goes On Mixed trad 14m, 1 Good
John Pitcairn
Got a couple of moves off the ground, not quite to the "jug". Bah.

 
22 Fuck-Knuckle Trad 16m Good
John Pitcairn
Left foot refused to get onto the crux hold. Rope still very stretchy.

 
Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Stem The Evil Tide Trad 14m Good
John Pitcairn
Struggled up on top rope, then attempted a direct finish over the bulge at the top of Suspended Animation. Got to the fissure hold beside the bolt, then, ummm ...

 
Wed 9th Nov 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Banshee Trad 14m Classic
John Pitcairn
Wilted off the top twice. Numb finger. Bailed.

 
Wed 19th Oct 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
21 Principles Of Lust Sport 12m, 4 Good
John Pitcairn
Peeled off the arete hard onto the first bolt again. Numb finger again. Sulk.

 
Sun 28th Aug 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Chasing After Charlie Direct Mixed trad 14m, 4 Very Good
John Pitcairn
After watching Blair and Jason work out the moves. A fair bit of dangling but not much thrashing. Somewhat surprised.

 
23 Bad Behaviour Mixed trad 14m, 1 Very Good
John Pitcairn
Perhaps not as close to a lead as might be hoped. Blair made it look easy of course.

 
23 Bodysnatcher Trad 14m Good
John Pitcairn
Warmup (ha) through the first section to the start of the bridging.

 
Fri 22nd Jul 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Banshee Trad 14m Classic
John Pitcairn
Off onto the top nut again, a very long fall with a very soft catch, meeting my lightweight belayer somewhere in the bottom third. Back on and completed it.

 
Sun 10th Jul 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Sheerlux Trad 14m
John Pitcairn
Top rope. All fine until pitching off just below the roof, then too much trouble to get back on.

 
23 Diddely Dick Mixed trad 14m, 2 Average
John Pitcairn
A bit of a thrash around working it out. A couple of the best holds below the first bolt are really rather loose and may make a lead a scary proposition. Top sequence is quite ok.

 
Mon 6th Jun 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Banshee Trad 14m Classic
John Pitcairn
Spent too long finding the secret sidepull at the top and wilted off onto the #1 nut at my feet, stopping somewhere below the halfway ledge. Took a few minutes for the fingers to recover then up and completed it. #1 needed a bash with a rock to retrieve. Bashed my finger too. Ow.

 
Sun 22nd May 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 Sneakeasy Sport 11m, 3 Good
John Pitcairn
Spat off at top but not too bad remembererering the moves.

 
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett Sport 14m, 2 Good
John Pitcairn
Sort of direct up the buttress without stepping right to ledge at start. Lots harder. Wouldn't want to lead it like that, long way to the bolt.

 
Wed 9th Mar 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Samarcand - with John Pitcairn Trad 9m Classic
Grant Johnston
Wasn't happy with my second nut so came back down for a cam to back it up - will use both from now on. A relief to finish it.

 
19 Bandersnatch - with Steve Trad 11m Very Good
Grant Johnston
Unexpectedly skated off the wall onto my first nut and the shelf. OK after that but not good for the confidence.

 
Sun 28th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
18 Moral Dilemma - with shichang Trad 14m Good
Grant Johnston
Fell off the mantle. Right foot slipped off . Scraped my shin over the edge. Should have warmed up first perhaps.

 
18 Deffust - with shichang Trad 10m Classic
Grant Johnston
Lobbed off the top onto my cam. First time I've done that.

 
Wed 24th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Fuck-Knuckle - with Grant Johnston Trad 16m Good
John Pitcairn
Off at crux onto good gear.

 
Sun 14th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
21 Thimblerigger - with Angela Hewlett Trad 12m Very Good
John Pitcairn
Spat off onto the crux finger size cam again. Need to consolidate a bit on this, solid 21.

 
Wed 10th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 Bodysnatcher - with Grant Johnston Trad 14m Good
John Pitcairn
Bloody sustained. Had a bit of a sit and regroup through the peapod bridging.

 
Wed 3rd Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
21 Green Groove Trad 11m Good
John Pitcairn
Dropped out of the crux. Found a better sequence - left foot compressed to block, then extended right-hand push on arete allows both feet to be repositioned.

 
Sun 24th Jan 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Desolation Angel Trad 10m
John Pitcairn
On top rope with Blair coaching. Too knackered to get fully into the top crack but setup sequence improved.

 
Thu 7th Jan 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Kaloo Kalay Trad 16m
Paul Whitfield
Not bold enough. Took a little rest.

 
Tue 29th Dec 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara Sport 14m, 2 Good
Tim Swain
Sun 6th Dec 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Kaloo Kalay - with Grant Johnston Trad 16m Very Good
John Pitcairn
Failed to clean Grant's ballnut

 
Wed 2nd Dec 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett Sport 14m, 2 Good
Tim Swain
Haven't climbed for a month so forgot lay back at crux

 
18 Dalrymple's Groove Trad 14m Very Good
Tim Swain
17 Silver Airman Trad 16m Classic
Tim Swain
Haven't climbed in ages, made a hash of the direct start to mantel didn't move both hands to left side

 
Wed 25th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
21 Principles Of Lust Sport 12m, 4 Good
John Pitcairn
Fell on the arete after the first bolt, numb fingertip, rope burn behind knee. Wrote the evening off.

 
Wed 18th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield Sport 11m, 3 Good
John Pitcairn
The top arete variation turns out to be too compressed for me. Found a better sequence for the usual way, perhaps a lead is likely soon.

 
21 Green Groove - with Paul Whitfield Trad 11m Good
John Pitcairn
All going well until nasty tricep cramp at crux. Managed to downclimb, rested on the rope to massage it out, then completed the lead. Not warmed up enough I guess.

 
23 Sneakeasy - with John Pitcairn Sport 11m, 3 Good
Paul Whitfield
working this one for the second week

 
Sun 15th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Stem The Evil Tide Trad 14m Good
John Pitcairn
Clean until the top drill hole, then lost it all crossed up.

 
Wed 11th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
17 Contested Corner - with John Pitcairn Trad 14m Don't Bother
Paul Whitfield
Pretty dirty, couldn't find gear I liked so backed off. Might return to clean then climb.

 
23 Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield Sport 11m, 3 Good
John Pitcairn
Back for another go pre-pub. The arete sequence is easier with the initial grab a bit higher. The jug above is sharp, foot slipped, there was blood.

 
23 Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield Sport 11m, 3 Good
John Pitcairn
No problems with the start (another sign of improvement?) but came off after the move right, hard to get back on. Then struggled with the top but found a possibly more stable sequence using the arete.

 
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett Sport 14m, 2 Good
Tim Swain
Almost clean, slipped at crux

 
Sat 31st Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Bandersnatch - with Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston Trad 11m Good
Tim Swain
Got the feet all wrong

 
19 Orangutang Trad 12m Good
Tim Swain
Start in 3

 
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara Sport 14m, 2 Good
Tim Swain
Crux in 3

 
Wed 28th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 The Raven Trad 10m
John Pitcairn
Can get through the crux but need to work on the sequence above. Having to re-do the crux after rope stretch every attempt is knackering.

 
18 Moral Dilemma - with Angela Hewlett Trad 14m Very Good
Tim Swain
Made a complete arse of start with little improvement over rest of climb. Climbed poorly all evening.

 
18 Deffust - with Angela Hewlett Trad 10m Good
Tim Swain
Didn't know what I was doing so sat on rope a few times whilst worked it out.

 
19 Orangutang Trad 12m Good
Tim Swain
10-15 attempts at start before somehow everything stuck and moved onwards. With Paul W.

 
Sun 25th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Gothic Groove - with Grant Johnston Trad 15m Very Good
John Pitcairn
Short plummet sorting myself out after the move left.

 
Wed 21st Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara Sport 14m, 2 Good
Tim Swain
Still took multi attempts at crux, will go next time...

 
19 Koruba Mixed trad 14m, 3 Very Good
Tim Swain
Foot slipped near top, otherwise clean

 
19 Samarcand - with Grant Johnston, John Pitcairn Trad 9m Very Good
Tim Swain
Tried to lay back the crack all the way. Didn't work out.

 
Sat 17th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
20 Kamikaze Krack Trad 15m Average
John Pitcairn
No higher. 20 my arse.

 
22 Stem The Evil Tide - with Grant Johnston Trad 14m Good
John Pitcairn
Placing gear makes things rather more difficult. Think I would like a grade or two spare before leading.

 
19 Kaloo Kalay - with John Pitcairn, Grant Johnston Trad 16m Very Good
Tim Swain
19 Koruba - with John Pitcairn, Grant Johnston Mixed trad 14m, 3 Very Good
Tim Swain
Wed 14th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Samarcand Trad 9m Very Good
Tim Swain
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara Sport 14m, 2 Good
Tim Swain
Only 6 attempts at crux

 
Sat 10th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
19 Orangutang - with Angela Hewlett Trad 12m Good
John Pitcairn
Fell on the first nut, should have lowered. There is a C4 #2 cam well overcammed and stuck under the top block.

 
20 Kamikaze Krack Trad 15m Average
John Pitcairn
Argh. Barely off the ground.

 
Wed 7th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Fuck-Knuckle Trad 16m Good
Tim Swain
Couldn't get past crux, hands wouldn't stick

 
19 Orangutang Trad 12m
Tim Swain
Close to getting crux start, next time...

 
22 Biggles Sucks A Kumara Sport 14m, 2 Good
Tim Swain
Lost count of crux attempts.

 
Sun 4th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
23 Bad Behaviour - with John Pitcairn Mixed trad 14m, 1 Very Good
Tim Swain
Too buggered to finish

 
19 Kaloo Kalay - with John Pitcairn Trad 16m Good
Tim Swain
Hauled up the start, work in progress

 
19 Bandersnatch - with Tim Swain, John Pitcairn Trad 11m Good
Tim Swain
23 Bad Behaviour Mixed trad 14m, 1 Very Good
John Pitcairn
Slipped off in the groove, took a rest before the block top.

 
Wed 30th Sep 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Fuck-Knuckle Trad 16m Good
Tim Swain
Crux on 4th attempt

 
Sat 22nd Aug 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Banshee Trad 14m Classic
John Pitcairn
Sun 12th Jul 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Stem The Evil Tide Trad 14m Good
John Pitcairn
Bridge until top drill hole is reachable

 
22 Banshee Trad 14m Classic
John Pitcairn
Bit warm. Arete crush is avoidable.

 
Sat 6th Jun 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
21 Thimblerigger Trad 12m Very Good
John Pitcairn
Bolloxed it up and fell from above onto crux cam, a good 5m, time enough to think on the way down. Got Anthony airborne. Climbed back through and finished it.

 
Sun 31st May 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
22 Banshee - with Ronnie Trad 14m Classic
John Pitcairn
Wed 25th Mar 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Melquiades - with Grant Johnston Mixed trad 14m, 1
John Pitcairn
Got about 3 moves off the ground on top rope. Hard start!

 
Sat 14th Mar 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
20 Playing Chicken linkup Shitbox Klingons - with Grant Johnston
1 20 linkup Shitbox Klingons , lead by GrantJ
Trad 14m Don't Bother
John Pitcairn
Double ropes. Fell off attempting to step right low to ledge of Moral Dilemma, probably better to climb a bit higher first. Crux of Shitbox Klingons is probably the bottom groove, so grading the linkup 18, though start might be a slight sandbag anyway.

 
Sat 7th Mar 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry
Long Side
24 Desolation Angel - with Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett Trad 10m
John Pitcairn
Hahaha. Fail.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 129 ascents.

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