Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 10th Jun 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
On top rope. Got up to the traverse right.
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23 | ★★ Snatchbender Direct - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
On top rope. Got up to the roof. Missed the undercling and gave up.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour - with John Pitcairn, steve | 14m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Happy to top out. With running beta from John and lots of rests. Good climb with lots of different moves in it.One worth working on.
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24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Several rests.
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Mon 5th Jun 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Got maybe 2m. Other climbs I should work on before this one.
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - with John Pitcairn | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Oh dear, Major problems. I need to learn this again.
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23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Top rope. Mostly figured out the bottom, had a good go at the top but ran out of steam after the bolt and lowered.
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - with Grant Johnston | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 21st May 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
18 | ★★ Deffust - with Angela Hewlett | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had to down climb and rest on the first nut. Oh dear. Tired post Arapiles?
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - with Grant Johnston | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tired, poor footwork, oozed off the greasy top ledgy hold, slumped onto a Z3.
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle - with Grant Johnston | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Failed and lowered from the crux on top rope. Grant put me to shame by scampering through easily.
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Mon 17th Apr 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★★ Spanish Moon - with Andy Baird | 11m | |||||
Sat 8th Apr 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Green Groove - with Grant Johnston | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat on a brass offset at the crux several times remembering what to do. Suck it up, mostly.
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Wed 15th Mar 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Samarcand - with Angela Hewlett | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Spanked. A couple of sits on the cam in the first slot.
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Thu 23rd Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ Sheerlux | 14m | |||||
Dangle and thrash at crux on top rope. Knackered, gave up.
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Sat 11th Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ The Grip Goes On | 14m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Not quite to the first low jug. Getting hot and greasy. Feh.
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Wed 8th Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Snatchbender Direct | 14m, 2 | |||||
How have we missed this? It's great. Close to nailing it first attempt but bollocksed up the move across to the top block. Fun.
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24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie | 14m, 4 | |||||
A bit of hanging around through the crux but somewhat better than usual.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Testing placements. Arsed off at the low crux.
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Wed 1st Feb 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ Sneakeasy | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Had to work out the top again. Ant did it better. Guess my strength is returning.
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Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Barracuda | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Top rope, placing gear. Bloody glad I didn't just get on lead. The gear is tiny, fiddly and totally in the way. I'll want a couple of grades leeway before attempting it I think. I wonder if those who downgraded it from 24 to 22 actually led it placing gear?
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19 | ★ Orangutang | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard start always gets me then easy to top
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Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Momrath | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite tricky with enough gear but still a mental lead
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Sat 17th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice slapping
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Wed 14th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ The Raven | 10m | |||||
Failed to sail up it. Stumped in the usual spot getting to the jug near the top. Hm.
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Sun 4th Dec 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
18 | ★★ Deffust | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
24 | ★★★ Porkland | 14m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 22nd Nov 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ The Grip Goes On | 14m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Got a couple of moves off the ground, not quite to the "jug". Bah.
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Left foot refused to get onto the crux hold. Rope still very stretchy.
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Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Struggled up on top rope, then attempted a direct finish over the bulge at the top of Suspended Animation. Got to the fissure hold beside the bolt, then, ummm ...
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Wed 9th Nov 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wilted off the top twice. Numb finger. Bailed.
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Wed 19th Oct 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Principles Of Lust | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Peeled off the arete hard onto the first bolt again. Numb finger again. Sulk.
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Sun 28th Aug 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★★ Chasing After Charlie Direct | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After watching Blair and Jason work out the moves. A fair bit of dangling but not much thrashing. Somewhat surprised.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Perhaps not as close to a lead as might be hoped. Blair made it look easy of course.
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23 | ★★ Bodysnatcher | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Warmup (ha) through the first section to the start of the bridging.
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Fri 22nd Jul 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Off onto the top nut again, a very long fall with a very soft catch, meeting my lightweight belayer somewhere in the bottom third. Back on and completed it.
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Sun 10th Jul 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ Sheerlux | 14m | |||||
Top rope. All fine until pitching off just below the roof, then too much trouble to get back on.
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23 | Diddely Dick | 14m, 2 | Average | ||||
A bit of a thrash around working it out. A couple of the best holds below the first bolt are really rather loose and may make a lead a scary proposition. Top sequence is quite ok.
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Mon 6th Jun 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Spent too long finding the secret sidepull at the top and wilted off onto the #1 nut at my feet, stopping somewhere below the halfway ledge. Took a few minutes for the fingers to recover then up and completed it. #1 needed a bash with a rock to retrieve. Bashed my finger too. Ow.
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Sun 22nd May 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ Sneakeasy | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Spat off at top but not too bad remembererering the moves.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Sort of direct up the buttress without stepping right to ledge at start. Lots harder. Wouldn't want to lead it like that, long way to the bolt.
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Wed 9th Mar 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Samarcand - with John Pitcairn | 9m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wasn't happy with my second nut so came back down for a cam to back it up - will use both from now on. A relief to finish it.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - with Steve | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unexpectedly skated off the wall onto my first nut and the shelf. OK after that but not good for the confidence.
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Sun 28th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
18 | ★ Moral Dilemma - with shichang | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Fell off the mantle. Right foot slipped off . Scraped my shin over the edge. Should have warmed up first perhaps.
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18 | ★★ Deffust - with shichang | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lobbed off the top onto my cam. First time I've done that.
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Wed 24th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle - with Grant Johnston | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Off at crux onto good gear.
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Sun 14th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Thimblerigger - with Angela Hewlett | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Spat off onto the crux finger size cam again. Need to consolidate a bit on this, solid 21.
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Wed 10th Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Bodysnatcher - with Grant Johnston | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Bloody sustained. Had a bit of a sit and regroup through the peapod bridging.
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Wed 3rd Feb 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Green Groove | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Dropped out of the crux. Found a better sequence - left foot compressed to block, then extended right-hand push on arete allows both feet to be repositioned.
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Sun 24th Jan 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★★ Desolation Angel | 10m | |||||
On top rope with Blair coaching. Too knackered to get fully into the top crack but setup sequence improved.
|
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Thu 7th Jan 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay | 16m | |||||
Not bold enough. Took a little rest.
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Tue 29th Dec 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 6th Dec 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay - with Grant Johnston | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Failed to clean Grant's ballnut
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Wed 2nd Dec 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Haven't climbed for a month so forgot lay back at crux
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18 | ★ Dalrymple's Groove | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★ Silver Airman | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Haven't climbed in ages, made a hash of the direct start to mantel didn't move both hands to left side
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Wed 25th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Principles Of Lust | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell on the arete after the first bolt, numb fingertip, rope burn behind knee. Wrote the evening off.
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Wed 18th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
The top arete variation turns out to be too compressed for me. Found a better sequence for the usual way, perhaps a lead is likely soon.
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21 | ★★ Green Groove - with Paul Whitfield | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
All going well until nasty tricep cramp at crux. Managed to downclimb, rested on the rope to massage it out, then completed the lead. Not warmed up enough I guess.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with John Pitcairn | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
working this one for the second week
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Sun 15th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Clean until the top drill hole, then lost it all crossed up.
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Wed 11th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
17 | Contested Corner - with John Pitcairn | 14m | Don't Bother | ||||
Pretty dirty, couldn't find gear I liked so backed off. Might return to clean then climb.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Back for another go pre-pub. The arete sequence is easier with the initial grab a bit higher. The jug above is sharp, foot slipped, there was blood.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
No problems with the start (another sign of improvement?) but came off after the move right, hard to get back on. Then struggled with the top but found a possibly more stable sequence using the arete.
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Almost clean, slipped at crux
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Sat 31st Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - with Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Got the feet all wrong
|
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19 | ★ Orangutang | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Start in 3
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Crux in 3
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Wed 28th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ The Raven | 10m | |||||
Can get through the crux but need to work on the sequence above. Having to re-do the crux after rope stretch every attempt is knackering.
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18 | ★ Moral Dilemma - with Angela Hewlett | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Made a complete arse of start with little improvement over rest of climb. Climbed poorly all evening.
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18 | ★★ Deffust - with Angela Hewlett | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Didn't know what I was doing so sat on rope a few times whilst worked it out.
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19 | ★ Orangutang | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
10-15 attempts at start before somehow everything stuck and moved onwards. With Paul W.
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Sun 25th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - with Grant Johnston | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short plummet sorting myself out after the move left.
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Wed 21st Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Still took multi attempts at crux, will go next time...
|
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19 | ★★ Koruba | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Foot slipped near top, otherwise clean
|
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19 | ★★ Samarcand - with Grant Johnston, John Pitcairn | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tried to lay back the crack all the way. Didn't work out.
|
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Sat 17th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
20 | Kamikaze Krack | 15m | Average | ||||
No higher. 20 my arse.
|
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22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide - with Grant Johnston | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Placing gear makes things rather more difficult. Think I would like a grade or two spare before leading.
|
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19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay - with John Pitcairn, Grant Johnston | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Koruba - with John Pitcairn, Grant Johnston | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 14th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Samarcand | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Only 6 attempts at crux
|
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Sat 10th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★ Orangutang - with Angela Hewlett | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Fell on the first nut, should have lowered. There is a C4 #2 cam well overcammed and stuck under the top block.
|
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20 | Kamikaze Krack | 15m | Average | ||||
Argh. Barely off the ground.
|
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Wed 7th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Couldn't get past crux, hands wouldn't stick
|
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19 | ★ Orangutang | 12m | |||||
Close to getting crux start, next time...
|
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Lost count of crux attempts.
|
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Sun 4th Oct 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Too buggered to finish
|
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19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay - with John Pitcairn | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Hauled up the start, work in progress
|
|||||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - with Tim Swain, John Pitcairn | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Slipped off in the groove, took a rest before the block top.
|
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Wed 30th Sep 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Crux on 4th attempt
|
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Sat 22nd Aug 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 12th Jul 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Bridge until top drill hole is reachable
|
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22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bit warm. Arete crush is avoidable.
|
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Sat 6th Jun 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Thimblerigger | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bolloxed it up and fell from above onto crux cam, a good 5m, time enough to think on the way down. Got Anthony airborne. Climbed back through and finished it.
|
|||||||
Sun 31st May 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★★ Banshee - with Ronnie | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 25th Mar 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ Melquiades - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 1 | |||||
Got about 3 moves off the ground on top rope. Hard start!
|
|||||||
Sat 14th Mar 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
20 |
Playing Chicken linkup Shitbox Klingons
- with
Grant Johnston
1
20
linkup Shitbox Klingons
, lead by
GrantJ
| 14m | Don't Bother | ||||
Double ropes. Fell off attempting to step right low to ledge of Moral Dilemma, probably better to climb a bit higher first. Crux of Shitbox Klingons is probably the bottom groove, so grading the linkup 18, though start might be a slight sandbag anyway.
|
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Sat 7th Mar 2015 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★★ Desolation Angel - with Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 10m | |||||
Hahaha. Fail.
|